Club 80-90 Forums

Anyone used these type of screw removal kits before?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-COBALT ... SwXAxb7sJ4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Are they any good? I'm open to suggestions.

Cheers.

Yes (i've tried them) and no (they weren't that good).

I suppose the left hand drills have a use (although they're not great drill bits), but I've found the extractors break too easily, and if you get one of those stuck you've got a real job on your hands

What are you trying to remove?

Extractors = snap + carrot

for non sheared stuff these are indespensible https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Irwin-Bo ... 1006.m3226

for drilling out centre drill bits are useful

Do those Irwin bolt grip sets work by drawing themselves tighter down onto the bolt head? That seems to be the issue I often have, the socket seems to slide up and off unless I can secure it with a clamp or something.

Aidan, you also mentioned centre drill bits, is there a drill bit that has a centering sleeve? Shaky hands and a wonky eye make that pretty tricky for me.

Cheers

RogerT wrote:Aidan, you also mentioned centre drill bits, is there a drill bit that has a centering sleeve? Shaky hands and a wonky eye make that pretty tricky for me.

Cheers

Yes, google self-centering hinge twist bits.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7x-HSS-Drill ... 1006.m3226" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Aidan wrote:for non sheared stuff these are indespensible https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Irwin-Bo ... 1006.m3226

for drilling out centre drill bits are useful

Cheers Aidan, i got myself a set of those while i was having problems removing the CV Joint bolts. They are fantastic. They helped me remove a few of the inlet manifold bolts too. Allen head bolts just seemed to crumble.



Any advice on removing sheared bolts? These are the types i am up against at the moment:


A worse one on the exhaust manifold too, it's pretty much flat with manifold (and was not done by me):

Have you got a MIG / TIG welder? If so you can weld a new nut on top of the remaining stud ends. There are plenty of YouTube videos that will show you the process, but essentially you drill the centre out of the top of the stud, place a new nut over the stud end, and fill the cavity created in the stud end, and the nut above, with weld. The heat from the welding into the remains of the stud breaks the corrosion and the new attached nut head can then be used to remove it.

Cheers Titus and Rob

Bottom pic - if you have any of the bolt ( which seems to be what you are dealing with there ) protruding from the rear it may be possible to use one of the Irwin tools and take it out of the back. ( After plenty of PlusGas and heat )
It doesn't look as though it would be very easy welding onto those remains.

Yes I weld a nut on if there is at lest half a nut thickness of stud remaining to locate it on if necessary by tapping it on with a hammer. I believe that the intense heat helps as much as having something to grip the stud by.
If it is flush or sub flush then a center punch and pilot drill begins the process remembering that the metal presented is offset to one side due to the thread form. progressively opening up will eventually show how badly you guessed where the true center of the stud is . I have a stock of left handed drills use of which sometimes unwinds the remaining thread at the last knockings. if the thread is damaged beyond help the the helicoil, stepped stud or internally threaded oversize stud is the next step.
My argument and experience with conventional stud removal tools is that if they are large enough to get a grip without snapping then they simply expand the walls of the drilled stud jamming it even more.
Clearly those nut grip sets re Hairy Camper's post do not have this problem and wind themselves on which is very heplful. Must get some.

This has some good ideas

https://youtu.be/dJfkCj3FWBs