Waxoyl or Dinitrol

Post it here, if it doesn't fit any of the above.

Moderators: User administrators, Moderators

User avatar
AngeloEvs
Registered user
Posts: 1345
Joined: 22 Nov 2007, 19:22
80-90 Mem No: 4709
Location: Upwell, Norfolk

Re: Waxoyl or Dinitrol

Post by AngeloEvs »

crazyhorse wrote:Let us know how you guys get with the Bilt Hamber stuff. Have used a few of their products now (hydrate 80) and the very impressive Electrox

I see the S50 and UB. Would the S50 stuff do the underbody also, or would I need the UB for that. Seem quite similar.

I havent got a compressor, so I will have to get the spray. How many cans would i need 4 each??


The Dynax S50 in 0.7litre spray can works extremely well both with the 60cm probe and standard spray cap. As above, no need to warm up.

I used 2 to do the inner sills, B and C pillars, and all the chassis box sections. You may find 4 cans is enough and you won't need a compressor. Easier to use than Waxoyl for sure.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior

Gary.
Registered user
Posts: 264
Joined: 19 Jun 2016, 07:14
80-90 Mem No: 15521
Location: Mid-Suffolk
Contact:

Re: Waxoyl or Dinitrol

Post by Gary. »

I used waxoyl in all the cavities and surfaces last summer. In total about 15 litres of the stuff, applied on a hot day, when the tins were left in the sun to make it nice and runny.

I flaked off any existing wayoyl and gave the underneath a good wash with the pressure washer to clean any remnants of loose bits first.

It has been garaged and mostly used in the dry for the last year. On inspection, there are many area's where the waxoyl is peeling away, underneath is just bare rust. I'm going to have to scrape all the flakes away and re-apply something else.

So, in my experience it's not that good. Probably better using up that old engine oil next time.

I would highly suggest having a can of Ambersil Corrosion Inhibitor at hand as this stuff is great for the odd squirt here and there.
Gary.

1990 Syncro doka (RHD), 1.6TD.

multisi
Registered user
Posts: 1725
Joined: 03 Apr 2016, 12:01
80-90 Mem No: 12
Location: jersey

Re: Waxoyl or Dinitrol

Post by multisi »

The Waxoyl is peeling away because of the condition of the surface its applied to. Not because the product is weak. Pressure washing is also not a good idea unless you give the vehicle a very long time to dry out, a couple of hours wouldnt be long enough to dry out cavities etc. Dry brushing and an air line is best.
1992 red lle 2.2 subaru 1990 rhd caravelle 2.2 subaru 1986 california import vanagon

what2do
Registered user
Posts: 2824
Joined: 05 Oct 2012, 08:55
80-90 Mem No: 11974
Location: Salisbury

Re: Waxoyl or Dinitrol

Post by what2do »

multisi wrote:The Waxoyl is peeling away because of the condition of the surface its applied to. Not because the product is weak. Pressure washing is also not a good idea unless you give the vehicle a very long time to dry out, a couple of hours wouldnt be long enough to dry out cavities etc. Dry brushing and an air line is best.


I have to agree with you multsi, if there's any dust or moisture then no cavity wax will adhere to the metal panel. They all stick like the proverbial shxx to a blanket.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?

'89 panel van, 1.9 DG.

Gary.
Registered user
Posts: 264
Joined: 19 Jun 2016, 07:14
80-90 Mem No: 15521
Location: Mid-Suffolk
Contact:

Re: Waxoyl or Dinitrol

Post by Gary. »

It was very dry. Could be that the existing Waxoyl had started to peel and I had not noticed.
Gary.

1990 Syncro doka (RHD), 1.6TD.

Post Reply