non VW, Scottoiler fitting

[scottbott]

anyone here ever use a Scottoiler on their bike?,if so what do you think of it?,they look pretty good and the extended chain and sprocket life sounds like it would pay for itself fairly quickly

[Oldiebut goodie]

Never liked oil on bike chains - always used the melted grease method. Never had any issues with premature sprocket and chain wear.
Cheaper alternative to that oiler is to rig up an Eberspächer or Webasto fuel pump to do the job! Small cheapo pulse generator board from China/ebay to provide the pulse at whatever rate you wish. ( do you really need all the input data that the electronic version gives you )
Where does all that oil eventually go? Out onto the road surface? Up the back of your legs?

[Dazco]

I used a scotoiler and was good then I used this and it it even better http://www.loobman.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I then made my own and found that better still .
I used machine slideway lube and it worked well.

[Highroller]

I used them years ago and think that they are great pieces of kit especially if you have a powerful bike, but with the price of a new chain and sprocket these days I tend to just use chain lube and drive a much more sedate bike.

[lodgey62]

Boiling was easy OBG as long as you have a split link,otherwise you probably have to remove the swinging arm, what a ball ache,heard nothing but good reports of the Scott oiler.Other option, get a shaft drive,no more oiling or adjusting.

[Ianinpoole]

Buy a good chain with "X" rings not "O" rings and use white grease or wax the best you can buy, this saves splashing oil all over the place.

[Oldiebut goodie]

Boiling was easy OBG as long as you have a split link,otherwise you probably have to remove the swinging arm, what a ball ache,heard nothing but good reports of the Scott oiler.Other option, get a shaft drive,no more oiling or adjusting.

Soon put a split link in - only takes a couple of minutes, no need to dismantle the bike. Reynolds chain pin remover was part of everyone's tool kit and with a little bit of ingenuity was adapted to being able to re-rivet brake linings. Used one of mine for relining the brakes on my Merc a couple of years ago.
I must admit was a bit envious when BMW brought out their shaft drive - looked the bee's knees.

[shepster]

Buy a good chain with "X" rings not "O" rings and use white grease or wax the best you can buy, this saves splashing oil all over the place.

Good advice, the days of boiling chains are long gone.

Only experience with Scott oilers was years ago when myself and a few mates used to tour abroad on our bikes.

One lad bought one and admittedly his chain was always oiled nicely but the rest of us following got covered with the stuff!

In my opinion unless your doing a long, daily, winter commute the time it takes to use a tin lube once a week isn't worth the mess.

[Dazco]

Worth getting the expansion tank if you go ahead with one. Fits behind the number plate.

[Ian and Lins]

Boiling was easy OBG as long as you have a split link,otherwise you probably have to remove the swinging arm, what a ball ache,heard nothing but good reports of the Scott oiler.Other option, get a shaft drive,no more oiling or adjusting.

Soon put a split link in - only takes a couple of minutes, no need to dismantle the bike. Reynolds chain pin remover was part of everyone's tool kit and with a little bit of ingenuity was adapted to being able to re-rivet brake linings. Used one of mine for relining the brakes on my Merc a couple of years ago.
I must admit was a bit envious when BMW brought out their shaft drive - looked the bee's knees.

Sorry OBG you clearly know A LOT about mechanics, engineering etc but I aint putting 140 BHP through a split link. Linklyfe was fun 'though, especially if the tin tipped up on Mum's gas cooker, then split onto the kitchen floor. That stuff had a hell of a 'blanket power'.

[Titus A Duxass]

I had one with a large tank on my VFR750FP, got a bit of grief at the Swiss border, they didn't like the fact that I was oiling their roads.

[lodgey62]

The very reason 160bhp+ will rip a split link
to bits,big Suzukis are approaching 200bhp

[bigbadbob76]

here's my tuppence-worth-I never used one but a few mates did, a lot of the time they ran dry and forgot to top up.
One mate had a chain snap as he pulled out to overtake and whip up past his leg, his oiler only oiled one side of the chain, the side you can see, the other side was badly worn.
A good quality x ring chain and applying spray grease as part of your regular checks does wonders. at the very least it means you check the chain regularly.
I wouldn't use a split link on anything over 250cc.

[Oldiebut goodie]

A correct split link is made of the same materials as a standard link - there appears to be a lot of misinformation concerning them over the web, the majority of it coming from the US. Also the use of hot grease for lubrication is detailed in Renolds literature! I would rather have grease inside a bearing (the roller) than oil on the periphery being flung off in a total loss system. If the chain is running in an oil bath like a primary chain it makes sense to use oil, not on an open secondary though.
Of course this is only relevant to the older types of chain not the modern O/X/whatever ring ones ( what is the lubricant in an O ring chain?.....grease! )
Split links are known to be used on dragsters so the bhp argument fails right there.

[shepster]

Most replacement chains for big bikes use a softlink now where you pein the end over rather than a traditional splitlink, not saying you can't use them it's just seems this is what they come with.