Hi All
I tried checking the technical forum and the wikki - can you help confirm if I have this right? You can adjust the front camber by adjusting the bolt on the top wishbone - is that correct? Could anyone submit a photo for me to identify the correct bolt and talk me through how you do it exactly?
Photo for your delectation:
Thanks
Dave
1.5 diesel, high top, 5 gear, 2wd, LHD Westy
Front Camber
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Front Camber
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Re: Front Camber
Save me writing it again
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... r#p8153280" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... r#p8153280" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: Front Camber
Big Herb, thanks so much, that is going to be so helpful.bigherb wrote:Save me writing it again
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... r#p8153280" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Sorry not to have found it myself.
Dave
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Re: Front Camber
And in terms of adjusting, aim to set front wheel as near upright as possible (+/- 1 degree). Takes a little rolling forward and back on level ground to verify. Can be done with spirit level against rim.
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Re: Front Camber
We are quite fortunate in that the correct camber setting just happens to be zero on a 2WD, this means that you can set the camber accurately with a medium 30cm spirit level. You will need spacers fastened top and bottom to avoid the tyre and touch the wheel rim.
The pre-requisite being that the van is on a perfectly flat piece of concrete.
Just remember that on a T3 everything is adjustable, Camber, Caster, Toe and adjusting one will alter another.
Altering Camber will change the Toe setting.
So Toe is altered by adjusting track rod length (always altered equally both sides and NOT just one)
Camber by adjusting the eccentric bolt (upper wishbone)
Caster by adjusting the radius rods (the large straight rod that goes forwards from lower track control arm to the front cross member)
One side Camber is way out and will require some adjustment but first ensure the top wishbone rubbers haven't collapsed. It is of course advisable to carry out Pre-Checks on suspension and steering before carrying out adjustments as any wear or excess play will need rectifying pre-adjustment.
Martin
The pre-requisite being that the van is on a perfectly flat piece of concrete.
Just remember that on a T3 everything is adjustable, Camber, Caster, Toe and adjusting one will alter another.
Altering Camber will change the Toe setting.
So Toe is altered by adjusting track rod length (always altered equally both sides and NOT just one)
Camber by adjusting the eccentric bolt (upper wishbone)
Caster by adjusting the radius rods (the large straight rod that goes forwards from lower track control arm to the front cross member)
One side Camber is way out and will require some adjustment but first ensure the top wishbone rubbers haven't collapsed. It is of course advisable to carry out Pre-Checks on suspension and steering before carrying out adjustments as any wear or excess play will need rectifying pre-adjustment.
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
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Re: Front Camber
California Dreamin wrote:We are quite fortunate in that the correct camber setting just happens to be zero on a 2WD, this means that you can set the camber accurately with a medium 30cm spirit level. You will need spacers fastened top and bottom to avoid the tyre and touch the wheel rim.
The pre-requisite being that the van is on a perfectly flat piece of concrete.
Just remember that on a T3 everything is adjustable, Camber, Caster, Toe and adjusting one will alter another.
Altering Camber will change the Toe setting.
So Toe is altered by adjusting track rod length (always altered equally both sides and NOT just one)
Camber by adjusting the eccentric bolt (upper wishbone)
Caster by adjusting the radius rods (the large straight rod that goes forwards from lower track control arm to the front cross member)
One side Camber is way out and will require some adjustment but first ensure the top wishbone rubbers haven't collapsed. It is of course advisable to carry out Pre-Checks on suspension and steering before carrying out adjustments as any wear or excess play will need rectifying pre-adjustment.
Martin
Hi Martin - guess what - the wishbone rubbers had collapsed - replaced and voila - back to normal.
Thanks for your help bud
Dave
Owner of a LHD, 1990, Diesel, 5 speed, high top Westy with half a big bumper!