Fitting a Hi-Top

The Tardis factor (interiors, awnings, roofs etc)

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skysurfin09
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Fitting a Hi-Top

Post by skysurfin09 »

Anyone here undertaken the conversion of a tin top to a Hi-Top, after the Fox and Goose week-end Tigs and Ermie have made me feel quite without. The Tech Archive is down and there appears to be sod all on Youtube, there I've said it?.... Any guidance would be sound.....Rob :shock:
'89 2.1 injected (Digijet)...travelling in hope over adversity

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Mocki
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Re: Fitting a Hi-Top

Post by Mocki »

It's not a hard job, I've done three , or four, it's all about the prep ( as with any job)
Key is to only cut out the section tween the "B" and "C" roof supports , and on
Y the flat of the roof , not the tight curved section towards the edge, so roughly in line with the edge of the headrests and no further .

Remember to leave a good 9 inches of headlining to trim up with if you have headlining

Really clean and rough up the paint three inches up from the gutter and roof edge front and back and the inner of the high top so the sikaflex has a good surface to key to and don't be tempted to rivet or bolt through the original tin roof
Any cur edges paint immediately you have cut them, the longer they are bare exposed metal the oxidising process starts, ideally paint as you cut
Steve
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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Caravelle TS TinTop Camper 
 

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AngeloEvs
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Re: Fitting a Hi-Top

Post by AngeloEvs »

My Autohomes Hi-Top is only bonded down the sides but across, front and rear, the Hi Top has a clearance and not bonded. Autohomes fit a seal to try and keep water and air out, I wondered if all Hi Tops are only bonded down the sides and, if so, why.

Someone on EBAY has acquired the original Autohomes moulds and you can purchase the Hi Tops as blanks available to purchase at around £700.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior

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