Fridge removal..

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ToolkiT73
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Fridge removal..

Post by ToolkiT73 »

My autosleeper has a failing 3 way fridge so I decided to replace it with a compressor one.
Today I tried to remove the old one but am stuck.. literally.. The unit is quite firmly into place and I could not find any screws as described in the wiki..
Is it just wedged between the wood panels?
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Ca ... ge_removal" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; step 3

The outsite fridge vent cover screws are quite corroded and would need drilling out so if possible I'd like to avoid doing that..
Removing the vent tube as in step 2 in the wiki would not make it be stuck that firmly I hope?

Any ideas?

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captain Byrne
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Re: Fridge removal..

Post by captain Byrne »

Open the cupboard doors on either side, there should be two screws recessed top & bottom on each side (4 in total). Once they're out it should come out but don't be afraid to give it a good pull.
1983 LHD Westfalia poptop 1.9 DG petrol.

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ToolkiT73
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Re: Fridge removal..

Post by ToolkiT73 »

captain Byrne wrote:Open the cupboard doors on either side, there should be two screws recessed top & bottom on each side (4 in total). Once they're out it should come out but don't be afraid to give it a good pull.
Thanks! After more close inspection, I did find the 3 screws.. just out of sight with a brown cap on top, well hidden.

Fridge has now been removed.

I did measure the cables and the 12V gas-ignition cable give 12V however the other 12V gives none, even after flipping the switch.. I even removed the switchpanel and measured there but all seems ok.. so I might have a case of cable breakage... the saga continues..

colinthefox
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Re: Fridge removal..

Post by colinthefox »

ToolkiT73 wrote:I did measure the cables and the 12V gas-ignition cable give 12V however the other 12V gives none, even after flipping the switch.. I even removed the switchpanel and measured there but all seems ok.. so I might have a case of cable breakage... the saga continues..

The 12V cable for the heater element should be fed via the split charge relay, and should only be 12V with the engine running.If no 12V with the engine running, then first suspect would be the split charge relay, or sometimes it's fed by a low voltage plug and socket.
1.9D (AEF) pop-top. Aaaaahhhhh........that's better.
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ToolkiT73
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Re: Fridge removal..

Post by ToolkiT73 »

colinthefox wrote:
ToolkiT73 wrote:I did measure the cables and the 12V gas-ignition cable give 12V however the other 12V gives none, even after flipping the switch.. I even removed the switchpanel and measured there but all seems ok.. so I might have a case of cable breakage... the saga continues..

The 12V cable for the heater element should be fed via the split charge relay, and should only be 12V with the engine running.If no 12V with the engine running, then first suspect would be the split charge relay, or sometimes it's fed by a low voltage plug and socket.
Ah, that makes sense! Engine was off so no power sounds ok then :)
I'll use the other cable to power my new compressor fridge backed up by the solar panel I just ordered.

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