Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby lloydy » 14 Dec 2011, 21:16

its from a early diesel syncro
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby jes*b » 15 Dec 2011, 18:29

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worth worrying about this at the mo? its the front boot on the gear linkage protection sleeve
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby Aidan » 15 Dec 2011, 23:17

I use a universal steering rack gaiter instead of the convoluted plumbers pipe/rubber hose and obsolete short rubber boot that always splits - did that instal on mine a couple of years ago and it's held together well and does the job fine - of course it's a woosy wbx van, might need something butcher for a disel :lol:

the whole thing stops muddy water collecting in the front linkage bush where it sits in the chassis and to be fair they worked when new but if the boots were still available (£3) it would still be a faff of a job because you have to pull the linkage out to change it - if doing that then check condition of nylon guides and refurbish whilst it's out if necessary and do the bush in the chassis whilst you're there
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby HarryMann » 15 Dec 2011, 23:57

Sorry haven't read all the thread, here is a quick list for work while under the front diff/bashplate area..

Gearchange detent box: detent offset setting, 'T' bush in detent box and cab lever Ball-joint (check, inspect, feel, grease at worst; replace with whole front change kit at best... Wiki )

http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_Fitting_Repair_Kit_01
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_Sloppy_gear_change_improving
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Gear_change_reluctance
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Gearbox_Clutch_CVs_-_Gearchange_images

=============================

Inspect wiring for cooling fan, connections, corrosion thereof and security of heavy (500Watt) cabling to 2-stage fan. Check fan, cowling and radiator from rear, security etc. Test fan for both speeds (hairclip in rad mounted switch method). Gently clean those terminals under rubber grommet, No-Crode the terminals and remake the joint, using a bit of NCrode to seal the grommet (fan switch MUST work reliably, especially on turbo diesels), switching temperatures in the Tech Archive, probably the Wiki too and on Brickwerks website

Main hoses, pipes front/rear, partic end of plastic section with inserts. Rubber hoses, joint to fore-aft pipes and esp. to lower r/h radiator stub.
This could be a good chance to fully drain from one of these hoses and back-flush radiator. Coolant should be changed regardless, so you know its a) fresh b) 50/50 antifreeze/de-ionised/soft rain water.

=============================

Check the top of the main front curved box section crash member (behind the bumper), but esp. the upright section only viewed from underneath and behind rad. Difficult access, dry, clean, de-rust and rust treat.. this can become quite bad and needs constant anti-rust from back and front every few years.

===========================

Clips and method of attachment of bashplate and its straightness. if s/tapper anchor nut plates are gone, rusted, unlikely thet are still available. Can use just M6 or M8 nuts 'n bolts, through slots or holes already in chassis runners. The front mounts are also likely to have damaged, missing anchor plates, straighten bash-plate and fit with at least 2 bolts either side and the two at the back and ignore front.

=============================

The heater valve is up under there somewhere, behind the rad (which if necessary is not to bad to remove). Ensure the operating wire and the valve itelf function OK.. i.e. from the cab, move lever to close heat off, ensure underneath valve moves fully off and cable doesn't kink/bend.lube inner/outer if required.

=================================

Check throttle cable and accelerator pedal mechanism, linkage etc, from behind the o/s indicator plastic. Lube, ensure lever in cab floor is clean and not worn too much (can be a show stopper if fails to clip and rotate properly)

========================================

Front diff. Ensure that the speedo knurled retainer easily screws on and off (careful , don't crush with the wrong shaped pliers, can bi-metallic corrode) Ensure the speedo drive actually turns when diff turns (when locked)... if not the rollpin (5.5 mm?) will need to be removed, requiring initially a very good celaning up and maybe a day or two of Plus Gassing. Removing requires exactly the correct sized drift, see Wiki.

Aidan and others will advise on the diff checks, but initially drain well and inspect, look, strain and smell. Check quantity of lube that exits.

If it's a 16" decide what driveshafts and jounts, that is, whether a full 16" locker diff to be fitted and heavier shafts and joints. The std diffs and front sahfts seem pretty tough. A good set of outer joints and boots is imperative and good tough boots on the inners. Once the boot goes, water ingress will destroy a joint within hours, if off-road on griity wet going. Make sure the spacers for inner joints are there and fitted, and that you have a new set or a good set of serrated washers, 'C' spreader plates and set screws. (Ideally, decide if all joint screws are to be the hex type or the 12-point spline drive ones.)

=========================================

Good lcuk with it.. a good idea to just get it mechanically sound for some fun driving...
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby jebiga41 » 16 Dec 2011, 11:45

Nice list Clive :ok should keep him out of trouble for a while :lol:
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby HarryMann » 16 Dec 2011, 12:17

Jes, just realised... you're bolt was threaded = my thread was stripped :?

Dai,

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I am really worried about you now... very concerned mate!
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby jes*b » 16 Dec 2011, 21:51

Thanks Harry :shock: :shock: :shock: . When I said I wanted to get the panel van show on the off road. I had a meet in early 2012 in mind. Still slot to learn clearly :rofl :rofl :rofl
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby jes*b » 23 Dec 2011, 11:42

Nice birthday present to myself....just back from Medway Galvanisers ( nice tip Neil :ok ) Paid by cheque in the end so £100+vat. 18 hour turn around! Great service, itemised each bit , labelled and numbered. Acid dipped and then galvanised. Very bling, ( & way above the standard the rest of the van will be getting im sure) but nothing that a bit of black wax and mud wont attend to and saved me alot of making good and painting. The subframe is a bit of a monster and the engine protection had 20 years of engine oil etc to deal with so a few less jobs to worry about (will need to re tap a few holes and file the odd drip).
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby HarryMann » 23 Dec 2011, 13:48

Good value that, worth £100 in elbow grease alone....
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby lloydy » 23 Dec 2011, 14:09

I want to get my trailing arms done at some stage
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby axeman » 23 Dec 2011, 17:15

looks like you have set the standard for the rest of the van now!

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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby Plasticman » 23 Dec 2011, 18:05

very nice that galving , maybe get the suspesion bits zinc'd with a coloured passivate for durability and discreet bling, do it all the time wityh offroad stuff and the carp just comes off with the pressure washer,its much better than paint etc and lasts for years.
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby alewing » 23 Dec 2011, 19:53

That's some wading, when you have to wash the carp off!!
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby jes*b » 29 Dec 2011, 08:51

Nearly at a point to do a bit of reassembly, would like to renew nuts and bolts where appropriate - what have people used - my local independent fixings shop has a good selection of hi tensile but they are BZP - is that ok or am I asking for trouble in a decades time? In dai's pic ^^^ he has some black coated bolts ( chassis rail bar / sub frame ) ??
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Re: Getting the Panel Van show on the off road

Postby syncroandy » 29 Dec 2011, 09:25

Hi Jes, good work so far ! Just seen this thread for the first time.

I'd suggest ordering the fasteners from VW as they'll be spot-on re. spec and quality, not really too dear, and a hassle-free one-stop shop. Helps enormously if you have ETOS/ETKA to just generate a list of part numbers. Don't worry too much if ETOS is showing them as NLA, I've found a they're frequently replaced with different part numbers. A lot of the old chromate finish bolts now come in dacromet with a different p/n.

HTH, and have fun with the resto !
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