Hardwired Dash Mod

[CovKid]

Just thought I'd show you this.



Got so cheesed off with that pathetic circuit board on the back of the clocks, I hardwired the whole thing today. Replaced the original connector olug with an ATX plug and socket from Maplins for £2.99 - normally used on computer motherboards for power supply connector. That then gave me way more possible routes in and out of clocks if I wanted to mount extra switches or whatever.

Chopped up an old computer power supply to give me all the linking cables I might need. cut the veroboard to size, made mounting holes and lined up LEDs on veroboard to match original then soldered everything up using original circuit as a guide. Reused all the resistors and diodes.

Hey presto no more intewrmittent lights and guages. Result!

Parts came to under a tenner including a box of crimp terminals (yes £1 shop no less) - veroboard and plug/socket came from Maplins.

Oh yes, added PCB sockets to veroboard to make LED replacement simple and added in an extra LED for future use.

[R0B]

well done that man. when do you want to do mine

[CovKid]

One other mod I made was to cut out space beneath panel indicators (often the digital clock can be found there) and put in the new digital volt meter I bought last week. Gives me a better idea that split charge is actuallly kicking in and lights up a cool blue. Theres also an extra switch in dash now which controls under-seat lighting I fitted last year.

[little.legs]

Nice! Any pics of it all working? How easy was that to do for someone with no/v little electrical know how?

[CovKid]

Will do some pics tomorrow. Well, it does pay if you can read a circuit diagram but basically you're replicating whats on the old one but in hardwired form. Gets a bit confusing in places but if you do one track at a time its not too bad. I've just reached the end of my tether with the old one and would rather have something I know won't break down on me any more. A sensible long-term solution might be an in-house printed circuit to do this job that any member can download, etch, drill and start assembling but I just went for veroboard as I wanted the job done. If I get more time I'll try to design a board to do this job but I'd need to look at all the T25s to make sure I'm covering everything like flyleads for a rev counter, glowplug light etc etc.

Definately not a beginners project unless you have a spare dash and are in no hurry. Took me around 6 hours from beginning to end. A purpose-made board would have cut that down to an hour possibly. Ideally, a circuit board to take the place of existing plug would be good too - less messing about.

[AngeloEvs]

I can send you PCB overlays but if I had known I would have sent you my spare PCBs, made up and ready to fit, you can have them anyway but I see you have removed the multi connector so it would need re-attaching. Hard wiring is the way to go and, like you say, gives you a bit more flexibility as well as being more reliable.

[CovKid]

I can send you PCB overlays but if I had known I would have sent you my spare PCBs, made up and ready to fit, you can have them anyway but I see you have removed the multi connector so it would need re-attaching. Hard wiring is the way to go and, like you say, gives you a bit more flexibility as well as being more reliable.

Did you make up one for the connector too then AngeloEvs? Not too late to try your version. Sounds more progressive.

[AngeloEvs]

Mine interfaces to the multiconnector. Its in the modified forum which I just updated. Might be better off having my files and a copy of my PCB Design software and them you can print, modify or design from scratch. The one I have available is for post 86 vans with the DOPS and the horizontal multiconnector. You could cut the tracks and use links to suit yours if you have the earlier type dash/different pin connections, etc.

[mark1967]

Any chance of this turning into a wiki? Must be one of the most common faults these vans suffer from.T`would be nice to have a numpties guide to follow.
I`ve even picked up atx connectors in anticipation

[CovKid]

Good idea Mark although it needs a multi-approach as AngeloEVS has built a proper circuit board for this whereas I used veroboard. Ultimately it needs two printed circuit layouts that can be made available to members, ready for etching, drilling and assembly and will interface with the existing multiplug but there are so many ways you can do this and it doesn't resolve all the possibilities such as LED dash lighting, all the required holders etc etc. As a kit I think it would be prohibitively expensive to make and has to cover all scenarios such as diesel, early and late models etc.

Perhaps we can do this as a DIY guide but I think Angeloevs will agree with me that its not entirely straightforward and would take a few of us to get a WIKI article right.

Must admit, since I did mine its been great but I replaced the multimplug with a much bigger one to give me scope to add more switches, indicators, lights etc. That won't suit everyone but I figure its my bus and I'd rather have the extra connections.

We'll see what we can do then!

[mark1967]

Good idea Mark although it needs a multi-approach as AngeloEVS has built a proper circuit board for this whereas I used veroboard.

Although having a printed cicuit board is probably the "correct" way of doing it (and my hat is in the off position to AngeloEVS for being able to do this).I like to think the simplest ways are usually the best specially seeing as I wouldn`t have a clue how to even start making a printed circuit board.I could however muddle my way through with it on the bench in the garage,a pile of wire and a printout to follow on a sunday afternoon.

Must admit, since I did mine its been great but I replaced the multiplug with a much bigger one to give me scope to add more switches, indicators, lights etc.

Which it will make it look a damn sight tidier than drilling holes all over the dash to slap switches and lights into which some vans seem to have got.

We'll see what we can do then!

Top man

[CovKid]

Might take some time to sort this but if you take the clocks unit out, its pretty easy to follow the tracks and replicate that on veroboard. Thats what I did. Work it out on paper first cos you'll find some connections on the plug aren't actually going anywhere. I did each LED and connection one at a time although some join up via the earth wire obviously. The other advantage of doing all this is that you can make use of the unused LED slots. For instance, one that comes on when you switch your lights on is useful as its a visual reminder that they are actually on, not always easy to spot in daylight sometimes.

To get my veroboard to fit in the space behind the LEDs, I first cut it to fit (fairly tightly) then scraped four areas clear of copper and made holes big enough in those areas to screw into the four holes originally meant for that plastic sheild thing. Basically you need to start cutting a piece of veroboard and making those screw holes. You also have to ensure that a row of veroboard holes lines up with the original led holders on the flimsy crappy thing you have on there now, That way when you fit the LEDs to the veroboard, they'll line up. I started there then worked on one circuit at a time. Easier to do than explain really, but that was the basis - following each line from the multiplug and making a note of what it is for later connecting. Theres a diagram in the WIKI for the plug I think. The regulator/tranny that is currectly screwed to the back of the right hand clock can stay where it is. Could go on the veroboard but would imagine it'll need a heatsink then. I found it easier to leave it where it was to be honest.

When you put it all together, you'll see its a lot simpler than it looks. The original circuit is very spread out so looks more complicated than it is.

[john_artist]

Hi everyone. I am very new to this board (so please be gentle with me!), but not to VW campers I'm happy to say! My father had a splitty (great childhood holiday memories!), I had a tin top Bay about 10 years back (wish I had never sold it!) and my son has a bay. Just over a week ago I became the very happy owner of a 1989 T25 autosleeper trooper (in wonderful condition). I am absolutely amazed how nice it is to drive (a gear stick that works!) and especially with the tiny turning circle!!!!!!

Anyway, back to the point in hand.........
I too have a problem with the Dash PCB. I have read all the posts on here and very informative they are too.

My question is, has anyone actually produced a circuit diagram that can be printed out? As I too wish to hard wire the dash. I can just about read a circuit diagram, but I know a chap who is an automotive electrical genius and am sure he can help me out if I get stuck!

Another question: If this PCB is such an awful design (which it is), why has not someone come up with an alternative (that is not so temperamental) that could be for sale on places like JustCampers etc? From reading these posts, I'm sure they would sell very well!

Looking forward to any reply!

[gti mad man]

the cost would be in making/purchasing a connector to interface with the o.e wiring loom i beli9ve

[AngeloEvs]

The problem is that VW used 4mm connectors for the LED warning display, the oil pressure warning PCB and the edge connector but these are not industry standard. An aftermarket PCB would have to interface with existing equipment. I have designed a PCB for mine and can supply you with a set but it is specifically for post '86 vehicles and the panel lights need to be replaced with LED's. The DOPS (Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning) PCB is removed from the speedo and soldered onto the PCB or the moulded socket can be removed from the membrane and soldered onto the PCB instead. It iterfaces directly to the existing multiconnector so no mods required there. I can provide you and your electrical chap with a schematic but you must tell me the year and model of the van as there are differences. There is a picture of mine in the 'modified' forum but the one shown is Version1 and not the later Version http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=49592