Power failure

[kentishvanman]

Hi,
1987 Autosleeper.
No power arriving at the board/Control panel over the sink.
Does anyone know the physical run of the cable from the Aux battery to 10amp connector behind the panel.
Autosleeper wiring diagram shows a 20amp in this run. I can't check it if I can't find it.
Thanks.

[Oldiebut goodie]

A fuse should be close to the power source so should be close to the battery.

[kentishvanman]

A fuse should be close to the power source so should be close to the battery.

It ain't there. The cable goes out of the bottom side of the battery box and goes????????
I have no wish to rip up carpets/ remove units etc so I might run a temp. cable between the 2 points and see if that solves the problem.

[Oldiebut goodie]

Naughty Autosleeper!

[kentishvanman]

Hi,
Update. Might help others.
Autosleeper reply to my question was to contact VW !!!!! I replied that it was their installation and wiring where the problem was and they said the fuse was in the fuse board. What fuse board?
The cable concerned, plus I assume fuse, goes up behind the cooker somewhere. The easiest solution is to put a new cable and fuse in. 1hour tops.

[937carrera]

Have a read of this - not for the instructions on how to wire a charger up but for the links to the wiring diagrams.

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=161757

[kentishvanman]

Hi,

Have a read of this - not for the instructions on how to wire a charger up but for the links to the wiring diagrams.

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=161757

Thanks for the interesting link. My wiring, and diagram, are for the earlier type, 1987, and I have the Labcraft control panel.
Thanks again.

[937carrera]

I guess you didn't follow the links from James's blog ?

http://autosleeper.vwt25camper.info/htm ... _down.html

There's a link for the '87 model with a wiring diagram on the last page. At the level of the problem you have it's seems quite simple. Most likely is the 20A fuse is blown, or there is a loose wire, perhaps at the connector block, preventing a circuit being formed, and also potentially blowing the fuse when it earths.

[JackE]

There are wiring diagrams for the leisure electric at the bag of the autosleeper manuals I found these useful when I was doing some repairs:
http://autosleeper.vwt25camper.info/198 ... nualWM.pdf I am not sure if that is the correct one for your van there a few different ones listed on the website: http://autosleeper.vwt25camper.info/htm ... _down.html

[kentishvanman]

Hiya,

I guess you didn't follow the links from James's blog ?

http://autosleeper.vwt25camper.info/htm ... _down.html

There's a link for the '87 model with a wiring diagram on the last page. At the level of the problem you have it's seems quite simple. Most likely is the 20A fuse is blown, or there is a loose wire, perhaps at the connector block, preventing a circuit being formed, and also potentially blowing the fuse when it earths.

I have a wiring diag for the '87 model.
There is no connectivity on the wire concerned and as you say broken, loose, or fuse.
Nothing broken at either end ie the bit that can be seen. Connector block connection fine. So assume it is the fuse but without taking out cupds etc I can't see/touch the fuse. Assuming there is one, as diag. shows, why it is buried I know not. Have connected a temp. wire between battery and control panel and everything works fine. So will put in permanent cable and fuse....problem solved.

[937carrera]

It's your call, but I would not want to go through the hassle of running a new wire under the vehicle and up the C post if it's as simple as a blown fuse or bad connection.

Have you found the fuseholder at the leisure battery ?

Have you run a continuity test on the relevant cable ?

I am with my AS at the moment and can take a picture if you like, but mine is more complex because I added the charger and radio feeds. The relevant wire is red, you should do a continuity test on it. It's worth taking the leisure battery out so you can see more clearly (incl the fuseholder.

[kentishvanman]

It's your call, but I would not want to go through the hassle of running a new wire under the vehicle and up the C post if it's as simple as a blown fuse or bad connection.

Have you found the fuseholder at the leisure battery ?

Have you run a continuity test on the relevant cable ?

I am with my AS at the moment and can take a picture if you like, but mine is more complex because I added the charger and radio feeds. The relevant wire is red, you should do a continuity test on it. It's worth taking the leisure battery out so you can see more clearly (incl the fuseholder.

No need to run cable up the c post. From rear bottom of battery box, down to floor, along channel in front of step, up the back side of cooker cabinet, into conduit, into eye level box duct, into control panel. All following existing cables that have been added in the past.
Repeat.. Have run a test on cable, connectivity/continuity. Zero
There is no fuse visible anywhere.

[937carrera]

I don't know if your manuals contain this wording, but mine does.

Both the vehicle battery and second battery when fitted are fused with a 20 amp blade fuse. It should be noted that this fuse protects the 12 volt circuit to the control panel and car.Van electrics only. This fuse is fitted adjacent to the positive terminal of the vehicle battery / second battery. When a second battery is fitted, a 30 amp blade fuse is fitted between the vehicle battery and the second battery in order to protect against overloading of the second battery charging system

[937carrera]

No need to run cable up the c post. From rear bottom of battery box, down to floor, along channel in front of step, up the back side of cooker cabinet, into conduit, into eye level box duct, into control panel. All following existing cables that have been added in the past.
Repeat.. Have run a test on cable, connectivity/continuity. Zero
There is no fuse visible anywhere.

Messages crossed.

We're both talking about the same / similar routing, it's a bit tight in that run up the conduit as you describe it.

I suggest you use the existing wire to pull the new one through, and you should fit a fuse. It'll be interesting to see where the cable has broken, from what I remember there isn't much chance for chafing or movement along the route .

[kentishvanman]

Hi,
The conduit I refer to is normal elec house conduit that I added between top of the cooker cupd and the Autosleeper eye level duct.
Speaking from memory, I ain't going to look now it's too 'ot, there are differences between the wiring diag. & what was fitted.
There is only one 30amp fuse between vehicle battery and leisure one, can't remember which side of the relay it is. The 20amp fuse, if there is one, is buried somewhere. I will ignore that and the existing cable which goes under the van from leisure battery and then up behind the cooker. The route for my new cable is a route I created for other additional cables.
I will never know if the existing cable is broken or the fuse has blown. I Just know that current does not pass along it.
PS. Have owned our van for 20 yrs and the previous owner kept every receipt for work done to I am 99% sure what is original and what has been altered.