Engine doesnt stop when ignition ‘off’

[100leelee]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[937carrera]

I think you've found the problem.

I'll read through your comments and see how they fit in with the wiring diagram. I'm pretty sure itchy has a picture somewhere that shows what the electrical connections should be on a Pierburg (my vans don't have one)

I'll post back, in the meantime if itchy or anyone else can see what's wrong from the photo feel free to pitch in

Can you do a photo of the relay and describe with terminal numbers / colours where the wires connect to ?

[100leelee]

I think you've found the problem.

I'll read through your comments and see how they fit in with the wiring diagram. I'm pretty sure itchy has a picture somewhere that shows what the electrical connections should be on a Pierburg (my vans don't have one)

I'll post back, in the meantime if itchy or anyone else can see what's wrong from the photo feel free to pitch in

Can you do a photo of the relay and describe with terminal numbers / colours where the wires connect to ?

Will do
It’s a 4 pin relay.. will get more info tomorrow
Thanks for the help!!

[937carrera]

OK,

Open up the wiring diagram and go to current track 23-24. That I believe is the standard relay, and the daisy chaining of connections is normal.

The feed to the relay on terminal 87 comes from track 5 , terminal B+ on the alternator. In other words, it's a battery live. Check against that diagram

While you are there, also check out that the wiring to the choke and air bypass valve are correct against the diagram

Did you also notice that the low current side of that relay is activated by the thermoswitch F35, which is suppose to get it's voltage from terminal 15 of the coil. Check that is correct too

Do the continuity tests on the relay as well, as before

[937carrera]

A few helper links for you:

from itchyfeet in http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 39&start=0

and with some good more pictures, itchyfeet playing over there too

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/wirin ... 64871.html

[100leelee]

Success....!!!!!!!!!!

Wired carb up correctly ( heaven knows how long it’s been incorrect)
Starts and more importantly now stops when the key is turned to the off position..

Many thanks to you guys...
Don’t reckon I would have sorted it without your help!!

[937carrera]

Great news, an unexpectedly quick resolution of the story...... and now I bet you don't feel a numpty around electrics any more.



Can you describe exactly what you needed to do to fix this, just so if someone else has the same problem they can refer to this thread. (and to satisfy my curiosity)

I'm assuming the LPG system is still working OK, that hasn't been affected by getting the basic wiring right ?

[100leelee]

Will do.

Removed the relay, made sure the terminal 30 from the relay was indeed the cable under question..
Referenced the wiring diagram, checking the carb component wiring..
As you say the wiring diagrams become easier to read after a while..!

Another good pointer is the size of the cable as well as the colour.

Ordered a new relay for the heater blower/ wiper motor earlier in the thread..

Lpg wiring works ok, just seemed to be a mix up on the wiring to the carb. Hard to trace without the wiring diagram..

[937carrera]

Hmm, I have been head scratching a bit, let me have a go

I think one of the connectors on the wire from terminal 30 on the intake manifold relay was connected to the connector for N1 (choke) or N3 (by pass air valve)

Consequently, once ignition was made live, the relay engaged and the battery live from the alternator became connected to N1 or N3, each of which normally receives power from terminal 15 on the coil. The current flowed to the coil, providing voltage to the other connections on terminal 15 of the coil, which in turn connects to F35 thermoswitch and thus to the coil part of the solenoid part of the relay, keeping it permanently engaged even when ignition was off.

As suspected, itchy was pointing in the right direction all along (as no doubt did his pictures) , I'm delighted you got it sorted in the end.

[100leelee]

Hmm, I have been head scratching a bit, let me have a go

I think one of the connectors on the wire from terminal 30 on the intake manifold relay was connected to the connector for N1 (choke) or N3 (by pass air valve)

Consequently, once ignition was made live, the relay engaged and the battery live from the alternator became connected to N1 or N3, each of which normally receives power from terminal 15 on the coil. The current flowed to the coil, providing voltage to the other connections on terminal 15 of the coil, which in turn connects to F35 thermoswitch and thus to the coil part of the solenoid part of the relay, keeping it permanently engaged even when ignition was off.

As suspected, itchy was pointing in the right direction all along (as no doubt did his pictures) , I'm delighted you got it sorted in the end.

Sounds plausible, the relay was definitely playing a part in keeping things live..!
It’s amazing how something as easily done causes lots of head scratching!!!!

[100leelee]

Just to finish the thread off...

New relay fitted, wipers and heater blower now only work when they are supposed to!!

Now back to the job I was doing on the van before i got sidetracked.....

[937carrera]

Good, things can be more difficult to diagnose when there are two or more problems at the same time.

Now, before you head off to the other item, did you figure out what this wire does. It looks very aftermarket.

[100leelee]

Good, things can be more difficult to diagnose when there are two or more problems at the same time.

Now, before you head off to the other item, did you figure out what this wire does. It looks very aftermarket.

Yes, this is a bespoke oil pressure light that resides in a blank space at the side of the dash binnacle..
Haven’t looked as to why..
May do later down the line..!!

[937carrera]

I'm glad you found that out.

Is it from the pressure switch between the pushrod tubes on 3 and 4, the back of the engine near the pulley or somewhere else ?

[100leelee]

I'm glad you found that out.

Is it from the pressure switch between the pushrod tubes on 3 and 4, the back of the engine near the pulley or somewhere else ?

From a switch between the pushrod tubes..

Am surprised the switch is there.. wouldn’t like to change many of them..!
There also does seem to be a switch near the pulley..
Not even going to ask why with this van..!!!!