Getting to the fan blower switch

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logicred
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Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by logicred »

Hi all. 1987 t25, fan blower doesn't work, almost definitely seized (I have watched the video), but I would like to test the switch first. What's the easiest way to get to the back of the switch?

Thanks.

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Jim San
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Re: Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by Jim San »

From fading memory I think its carefully pull the knob off and the nut is behind there.
I also think there was a bit of access down through the ash tray hole to get in there to hold it.

I was taking the while dash out so exact method wasn't noted. It's not overly tricky.

Wiki has a fair bit of info on this subject. If switch is burnt out its becuase its under load due to the fan motor performance - replacing the switch isn't the answer. Also, whilst on wiki, you may be interested to read covkids modification for replaing the switch with a variable motor controller which means doing away with the resistor pack. I did it, very pleased with how it operates now. I'm no sparky but even I managed it :D
1991 (LHD) Syncro kombi 1.9MTDi 1Z (Landy fuel pump) 215/70/16
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AngeloEvs
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Re: Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by AngeloEvs »

The switch, once removed, is serviceable, easy to take apart and check the condition of the contacts to clean if necessary.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior

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DoubleOSeven
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Re: Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by DoubleOSeven »

How do you get the front plate off. I’m reluctant to pull the lever knobs too hard. Early ‘84
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AngeloEvs
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Re: Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by AngeloEvs »

Difficult to separate the knobs from the sliders, the knob and the metal slider to which they are attached will usually come away together. The metal sliders are just a push fit into their carrier so not a problem. Use a bit of masking tape and label the knobs current position before removing them.

The cover plate has lugs in each corner and its a case of gently prising it away. I don't know of any other way to remove it. The switch has a small spring in it so be aware when dismantling it.

Use a small screwdriver and gently part the switch case from the tang on each side .


ImageBlower Switch by Angelo Evans, on Flickr
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior

clone123
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Re: Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by clone123 »

Before taking the switch apart and breaking it I would try hot jumping the wirings on the back of the switch first to see if the fan is seized first I can't remember which way to jump but maybe somebody on here can tell you the colours to jump to see if the fan is working first that's what I did and mine was seized so dash out if it works on any of the 3 settings you no it's the switch if not its dash out anyway but dont forget the to check the fuse first

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PJR
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Re: Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by PJR »

My fan was dead and just blew the 20 amp fuse when turned on. However, yesterday I took out and cleaned the earth points behind the glovebox. They were more corroded than they looked when in place, and 3 spade terminals needed to be replaced.

As a result, my instruments work properly now and the fan not only works, but after an initial squeal, is also quiet and powerful.

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Jim San
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Re: Getting to the fan blower switch

Post by Jim San »

Fair bit of info and discussion on fan motors, fan switches, resistor pack etc on here and wiki.
I seem to remember general consensus was that a failing switch is caused by other problems in the system - namely the fan motor is on its way out and demanding more and more current which the switch just can't handle.
Replacing the switch will get it working again but hasn't solved the root problem.
1991 (LHD) Syncro kombi 1.9MTDi 1Z (Landy fuel pump) 215/70/16
Life's to short to drink s@@t beer.
'Roads? We don't need roads where we're going'

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