Coolant temperture checked and new sensor in, it has 115 written on it and on the box which nicely aligns with the 115C on the gauge so I think we can conclude that full gauge is 115C and I'm getting no where near that.
P1100695 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1100698 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Using the thermocouple on the metal water pipe ( because the other one is not removed) this is where the coolant is about 85C
P1100700 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
and this is where is when fan is kicking in and out so 88-92
P1100703 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
pull the plug off the level sensor and light flashes, I think it raised a little but definitely not full gauge so it appears the PCB does not affect the gauge just the LED.
P1100702 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
So in summary I had 4 faults
A broken gauge
A faulty regulator contact which was making my fuel gauge read high ( and would have made the temp gauge high if it worked)
A faulty sender which was creating a much lower resistance path.
A faulty brand new sensor which was creating a much lower resistance path.
The brand new sensor being faulty was the thing that really cost me so much time but it is a good lesson to remember.
Just like the brand new thermostat
DON'T ASSUME A NEW PART CAN'T BE FAULTY
I could well of broken it dunking it in boiling water so
DON'T TEST SENSORS IN BOILING WATER
937carrera wrote:I think I would be moving from bench test in the van to bench test in the kitchen. Quicker and cheaper to boil the kettle.
It appears I'm not the only one who would have made this mistake.
Big thanks to everybody who helped , particularly AngeloEvs for his excellent knowledge of the circuit and 937Carrera for keeping me going when I got bored of it.
Hopefully some good data here to help others in future , I may just measure voltage and current across the sensor to have that info to hand.
![OK! :ok](./images/smilies/ok.gif)