Flickering charging light - regulator query.

[what2do]

Holding the stud whilst tightening the nut or are you looking at something else?

I didn't recognise the bracket especially as it appears to be covering what appears to be the coolant chamber.

[CovKid]

Alternators can be split into three distinct areas: The regulator (easily replaceable), the windings and core components including bearings, and finally the diode pack. Lazy alternators are usually due to the diode pack deep inside the alternator rather than the regulator but it does no harm to clean the commutator and/or replace regulator. If the alternator is secure and has a good earth, its far more likely to be the diode pack than anything else. I have the same issue with mine and its been like that for a few years. However, with a slight blip of the throttle, the ignition light goes out so I've not bothered stripping it down.

[what2do]

Right, it's been a week and in that week the following has happened:

The charging diode would flicker like crazy upon start up in the morning and remain doing so for a couple of minutes.
Each morning, the starter has been getting lazier.
Yesterday morning the battery wouldn't turn the starter.

Measured the alternator output - 8.5 V
Measured the battery - 8.5 V.

Jump started it and it ran fine. Placed battery on charge last night and it has fired up straight away.

I've yet to check the alternator bracket but will do so today.

Is it possible to incorrectly fit the regulator? It seemed reluctant to go in place, I had to insert it and apply pressure on it to be able to get the 2 screws started and then tighten them up. It seems a simple operation but does this sound correct?

Incidentally, I should have known I was going to run out of 'juice' because I'd noticed the horn was barely audible - live and learn.

Thanks in advance.

[what2do]

Anybody?

[CovKid]

Get the alternator off so you can inspect it properly, clean the commutator and check regulator is correctly fitted. Start there. If it still doesn't charge find a local place to rebuild it for you - tis cheaper than new.

[what2do]

Update:


Have been tinkering a little over the last few days. Very confused with the symptoms I'm experiencing.

Took the alternator off and cleaned the metal surfaces where it touches the bracket, cleaned up the terminals on the back and shook it until the old brush fell out - result!

Firstly, so far it's looking as if my newish Bosch s4 battery may not be terminally ill after allowing it to discharge to 8.5 V, I guess we'll see when the cold weather appears and how well it'll crank the van over in the mornings.

I prematurely got excited when I got a reading of over 14 V but then it dawned upon me that the battery had been on charge for over a day. Did several short journeys over a period of days without there appearing to be a problem when cranking over first thing in the morning. Then I did a 30 minute drive on good roads where I noticed the charging light was coming on a medium to high revs - not cured yet then.

Went and bought an alternator of a reliable source (Bosch) for a bargain price of £20. Spent half an hour cleaning it up, installed it and found it won't fit as it's an 036, the hole for the diagonal bracket is in the wrong place, I'd need a bracket that is about 4 inches longer and then a much longer belt. Not to worry, I can sell it on once I find out what it's off.

Reinstalled my original alternator, started the engine, getting readings of over 14 V (fitted a new 14.5 V regulator a week or so ago) at the alternator. Looking good....
Go back to the cab and rev it hard, charging light appears but goes out once the revs drop.

Anybody tell me what could possibly be going on?

No panic at the moment but I will get around to finding another Bosch replacement so that this one can go away for refurbishment.

Thanks for sticking with the essay.

[itchyfeet]

Don't worry about the charge light for the moment as I doubt you have checked the blue wire

concentrate on checking there is 14V approx always while you drive which you can do by fitting a voltmeter or as I have done in the past just wire a multimeter into the stereo connector and sit it on the dash.

Once you know the alt is working or not then go look at the blue wire

[what2do]

Ahhh, this maybe a good time to fit my Audi gauges. It'll have to be temporary as I've yet to decide upon a final position for them. Educate me somebody please, where should I pick up a feed for the Voltmeter? Thanks.

[itchyfeet]

Ideally at the battery as any further away will be measuring voltdrop in cables
but for your initial verification of alternator working or not you don't need it brilliantly accurate just wire in anywhere as a temporary measure.

[what2do]

Ideally at the battery as any further away will be measuring voltdrop in cables
but for your initial verification of alternator working or not you don't need it brilliantly accurate just wire in anywhere as a temporary measure.

Sounds easy enough, wire it up directly to the battery poles (with an inline fuse - what amps?)

[itchyfeet]

Voltmeter draws almost no current so 5A

[what2do]

Voltmeter draws almost no current so 5A

Ta.

[dave friday]

Use the cigarette lighter socket for your voltage reading/s.

[what2do]

Have wired it up to the battery. Showing just over 14 V with the engine running on the drive, drops to a tad over 12 V when engine is off. I'll take it for a spin later and see what the gauge reads at high'ish speeds because this is when the diode has been illuminating recently.

[itchyfeet]

Have wired it up to the battery. Showing just over 14 V with the engine running on the drive, drops to a tad over 12 V when engine is off. I'll take it for a spin later and see what the gauge reads at high'ish speeds because this is when the diode has been illuminating recently.

Yep working but as you say now monitor it.
I have to say I'm impressed