Which Distributor for a CU Engine
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Which Distributor for a CU Engine
I have a two ltr CU petrol, idle ignition stabilisation unit and a Bosch Dual Vacuum Dual Advance Hall impulse distributor with a worn shaft currently. I can't find a distributor for sale on the usual VW special sites that looks like mine however can find lots of SVDA without the Hall sender which is rather worrying. Just Kampers has one that all 2100cc T25s with MV, SR and SS engine codes from 1986 to 1992 with no mention of CU at a scary £149. I have spent hours today looking online and my heads done in with the choices. I recall seeing someone selling replacement shafts however at I am looking for some advice on what sort of options do I have please for choice of distributor and ancillaries wise please i.e. if I go down the road of a SVDA would my stabilization unit be redundant? Help
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
Hi, try this:- http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/PartD ... 293&s_vid=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
cassandra wrote:Hi, try this:- http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/PartD ... 293&s_vid=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope this helps
My understanding is that the DVDA is no longer available. I suspect the one linked above is single vac, going on the image.
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
The second vac is purely for emissions, retarding the ignition at idle and very low loads. You must therefore use the correct port for the vac advance bellows
What matters though is the correct centrifugal advance curve and total vacuum advance so try to get the correct spec dizzy. People will sell/tell you anything! regardless of the suitability of the internals.
Read up on our Wiki...lots of info there on CU dizzies and pipework etc.
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What matters though is the correct centrifugal advance curve and total vacuum advance so try to get the correct spec dizzy. People will sell/tell you anything! regardless of the suitability of the internals.
Read up on our Wiki...lots of info there on CU dizzies and pipework etc.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
HarryMann wrote:The second vac is purely for emissions, retarding the ignition at idle and very low loads. You must therefore use the correct port for the vac advance bellows
What matters though is the correct centrifugal advance curve and total vacuum advance so try to get the correct spec dizzy. People will sell/tell you anything! regardless of the suitability of the internals.
Read up on our Wiki...lots of info there on CU dizzies and pipework etc.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
RE Link to https://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/Part ... 293&s_vid=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
So it transpires it is a single vac model (after a quick phone call). However, if I was to swap the twin vac (DVDA) off my old dizzy will this do the job or will it need a bit more work other than a straight swap out?
I've attached a couple of pics of my dizzy with the repair kit from Brickwerks installed... Hopefully this will work but if not I need a plan B
Reading on http://www.Aircooled.net/vw-distributor-options/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
“DVDA = Dual Vacuum, Dual Advance Distributor. The same as the SVDA, but also has a Vacuum RETARD port. One vacuum port is for advance, the other is for an idle retard, which improved emissions a lot!”
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- 1980_2lt_AC_CU_DVDA_DIZZY.jpg
- 1980 2lt Aircooled [CU] DVDA DIZZY
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
Should be straight swap (all being well). Just never be persuaded by anyone that a 009 crappo distributor is suitable.
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
Nice one!
Does anyone have any suggestions/tricks/tips as to how I can remove a stubborn gudgeon pin holding on the end plate at the bottom of the dizzy Shaft? My previous pic also shows a detail of the piece of shim/washer (brittle) that fell out the bottom when replacing the hall sensor. As a result there's perhaps more play in the end plate than there should be? But removing that pin without doing significant damage to the components is proving near impossible.
Does anyone have any suggestions/tricks/tips as to how I can remove a stubborn gudgeon pin holding on the end plate at the bottom of the dizzy Shaft? My previous pic also shows a detail of the piece of shim/washer (brittle) that fell out the bottom when replacing the hall sensor. As a result there's perhaps more play in the end plate than there should be? But removing that pin without doing significant damage to the components is proving near impossible.
1980 Air Cooled (CU) Danbury. Purchased in 2006. Fave destination: Northumberland Coast.
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
treblezero wrote:Nice one!
Does anyone have any suggestions/tricks/tips as to how I can remove a stubborn gudgeon pin holding on the end plate at the bottom of the dizzy Shaft? My previous pic also shows a detail of the piece of shim/washer (brittle) that fell out the bottom when replacing the hall sensor. As a result there's perhaps more play in the end plate than there should be? But removing that pin without doing significant damage to the components is proving near impossible.
They often need pressing out. If it was the fibre washer the Bosch part number is 1230107011 sit before you see the price.
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Re: Which Distributor for a CU Engine
https://cars245.co.uk/item/bosch-1230107011-washer/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
75p each but £2.70 delivery... So I bought 10 and if they turn up I'll put 8 on ebay. But you're right, BigHerb, some outrageous prices, particulalry on eBay.
Thanks for the quick response, folks
75p each but £2.70 delivery... So I bought 10 and if they turn up I'll put 8 on ebay. But you're right, BigHerb, some outrageous prices, particulalry on eBay.
Thanks for the quick response, folks
1980 Air Cooled (CU) Danbury. Purchased in 2006. Fave destination: Northumberland Coast.