Replacing Starter Cable - Trouble routing over fuel tank

[MidLifeCrisis]

Ah! there you go...much clearer. I guess its worth pointing out the importance of getting this right, without fusing this cable represents a massive hazard if it were to chafe through or catch on the handbrake etc.
Whilst the likelyhood of this happening is low, you need to be mindful to correctly root and fasten so this cannot happen.

Martin

Agreed !! Big unfused cables near a fuel tank ...... doesn't really bear thinking about!!

[CovKid]

I didn't bother. If memory serves me right, I followed coolant hoses then diverted across before tank to come up under battery box. When I next pull the interior out I'm taking a direct path from starter to battery to reduce the cable run by at least two metres.

[itchyfeet]

Another point on safety is the length of the cable from the last P clip to the starter.

I have read this can rub through on the chassis as the engine moves up and down ( the poster said his was smoking from the cable) , I have added some insulation as seen in the pic after reading this

If you cut this too long then I think it will be worse.

[Woodyyellow]

OK, so I've just crawled under my van and this is what I've found. There is a 'factory fit' cable tie, undone in my case, next to the handbrake cable guide. If yours is still done up then that could well be your problem area.

This is firmly fixed to the body of the van.

I will need to re route my cable above the fuel breather pipe and the attach it to the cable tie later.
Hope this helps.

[MidLifeCrisis]

Thanks for all the pics chaps - I'm going under the van now for round #2!!

[Oldiebut goodie]

Good luck!

[MidLifeCrisis]

Well - 3 hours later and we're all done!!
Tried pulling starter cable through with thin wire - thin wire snapped.
Pulled a thicker wire through with the thinner wire then used that to pull starter cable through and we have success. But it was a struggle!! Only brute force and the fact that your pics gave me the confidence that I was doing the right thing helped me keep at it.
Found that pulling from access from the wheel arch gave me a straighter pull .....

..... not sure what I'd suggest as an alternative method - I think OBG suggested fixing new cable to end of old one but they'd have to be perfectly in line for this to work so short of dropping the tank I can't think of another option.

(Also I think my new cable was a slightly larger diameter than the old which I'm sure didn't help)

Also - FYI the cable length from battery clamp to starter was 2.7 m as measured on the old cable (that stuff is expensive so that might be useful info for someone)(that's with battery under drivers seat in a RHD, going to starter on a manual petrol engine - incase any of that effects things)

Once again thanks for everyone's help and comments and pictures - it all helped !!

[Woodyyellow]

Glad you managed it, well done!

[ghost123uk]

Is it any livelier on the starter now ?

Oh, and how did you get on fastening the end(s) on ?

[MidLifeCrisis]

Glad you managed it, well done!

Cheers - thanks for the help with photos - that was really useful in reassuring me that I was vaguely doing the right thing!

Is it any livelier on the starter now ?

Oh, and how did you get on fastening the end(s) on ?

It certainly feels a lot more 'solid' turning over now - I was having the odd occasion where solenoid seemed to be firing but starter wasn't turning over - hopefully it going to fix that - and the cable end at the starter on the old cable was pretty tragic looking.

As for fitting the ring terminal to end - I used one of those mini blowtorch things (the ones that basically have a cigarette lighter in them) to heat up the terminal (terminal held in a vice) then fed solder in at the small opening in the ring end of the terminal and it wicked into the joint - seemed pretty solid when I'd finished.

At the battery end I just have one of those terminals with the small screws that pinch into the cable to hold it in place ....... probably need something a bit better ..... Any suggestions??

[CovKid]

The best solution at battery end is an insulated post under the seat, then from there to battery. That way there are less cables to battery positive and other ring connectors (if required) can be added to the new post.

You can also mirror this by creating another insulated post under the dash and run to there with another cable (not quite as thick) to provide a good supply for your headlights if you plan to fit relays later on.

[MidLifeCrisis]

Thanks - food for thought ........ especially as I had so much fun fitting the starter cable!!

[The Bishop]

I need to replace the cable from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. What spec of cable do I need to buy?

[MidLifeCrisis]

I need to replace the cable from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. What spec of cable do I need to buy?

Bentleys suggests that it's 10AWG .....

[California Dreamin]

That's around 2.5 mm2 approx 30 amps
If I was doing this & given that the original suffered from corrosion, I would be tempted to go for Tinned Copper which has a better resistance to adverse conditions. Often referred to as 'marine quality' as it resists saltwater/acid etc and not that much more money.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... tegory/159" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Martin