Head Light type

[CovKid]

As you know, I'm more than a little jumpy about changing light fittings but my MOT guy also confirmed he's likely to pass them if they're set correctly and the cutoff is correct. I've become rather adept at setting headlamps ever since a garage (who I never went back to afterwards), adjusted my lights during an MOT and I was lighting up pedestrians faces!! You can tell at a glance out on the road where they should be, the 'kick' on the left beginning at the kerbs edge on an average width road. On the other side they need to be well below oncoming drivers eyeline but enough to light the road in front of you. I generally work via the garage door method to start with, then get it spot on afterwards. How that garage ever set my lights so badly I'll never know.

Really looking forward to testing these. Will start with reasonably good (but not Silverstar type bulbs) to start with. They will probably be good enough as is - will see. Then I'll try with Osrams.

Still not hatched a perfect plan for rear lights quite yet. However, I'll buy some new standard light pods and see what I can do.

[CovKid]

New headlights finally arrived. Plan of action is to use manual settings on camera so exposure is consistent and take before/after pics both on a wall and on a quiet road after dark. This should give a clearer idea of whether they fare better (or worse) and by how much. Certainly they look really impressive but there is no substitute for testing. My hunch having checked them out carefully, is that these reflector-driven units will be far better than the old lens-driven ones but proof is everything.

The remaining issue is the DRLs. These units don't have sidelight fittings - just the DRLs. Much depends on how bright they are, but to work correctly I would have thought they would need a dimmer circuit so that they do not shine as bright at night - or I reduce the voltage to them permanently so they just act as sidelights and not DRLs. Probably the latter is the best solution until I can figure out a way to get them to perform as both.

A possible solution is a 5-pin relay normally energised by headlight dipped circuit so that power is lost to DRLs when in dipped headlight mode? That way they go off under circumstances that might otherwise dazzle drivers but yet act as sidelights/DRLs under all other circumstances. You can, I gather, buy ready made kits that do the same or similar

Or, fit independent sidelights and the DRLs are only on when headlights are off.

[slowcoach]

Will be watching this one closely! Good work covkid.
I'm about to upgrade the headlight loom so will likely follow with new lights.

[CovKid]

I'm a bit of a stickler for (as far as possible) conforming to regs and not having anything that makes me a target for unwanted stops or criticism from my MOT tester, who to be fair is always very helpful and lets me look where he looks. At the same time I want GOOD lights that don't annoy anyone else. For that reason the project may be slightly extended but DRL's aside, I can definately test main lamps over next two days. As a teaser, I wired up the DRL's to a 12v source indoors tonight and can confirm they are bright little buggers!

At the moment I may go for fitting additional sidelights (markers) elsewhere and connect DRL's so they go off according to the book.

Will keep you updated.

[CovKid]

Lot of posts in succession here but never mind.

Changed the Euro Car Parts units for the new units this morning.

BLIMEY you can see the difference even in daylight. On a brick wall, the cutoff point on dipped is VERY VERY precise compared to ECP or even Hella ones, both of which lack the focus of these. Much whiter light too - even with same bulbs. Nice defined kick to the left - as required. Took some video last night of beams on a wall using old ECP units so will add a video of new units, plus an 'out on the road' video tonight - if I can find some driveable quiet roads...

At last - lights that actually work instead of fuzzy dim ones.

I picked up some lorry sidelights as a possible temporary measure today (thanks Marcus) until the DRL relay kit arrives: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Car-Dayt ... 43d423377e" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That will mean the DRL's function as sidelights (dimmed) when headlights are on, but bright when headlights are off (ie for daytime use). Rhey also have a 25 second delay when you switch off and get out - presumably to light your way. MOT guy will be happy with the dimmer as the DRLs then do what they should do. The seller does say they'll pass an MOT as they are but legislation does dictate the need to dim DRLs when headlights are on so I'm sticking to that.

If you do buy these units - get a relay as above - solves the DRL/sidelight issue in one go.

[ghost123uk]

Ralph, I wonder how much you can dim those LEDs by using voltage drop, at some point they will stop dimming and simply not "fire up". In my experience you can't reduce the output of Hi-Brightness LEDs very effectively that way. You can get a pulsed (mark space ratio) dimmer circuit, but that will likely introduce too much flicker.

E D I T = just read the blurb on that Ebay link ^^^ = that thingy might do it

[CovKid]

Cheap enough to try but not likely to arrive particularly fast John. Have left the DRL's out of the equation for now as I'd rather wire them so they actually comply in terms of functionality. Ten out of ten for the lights so far today though - They completely pee on Hellas! Roll on darkness I say.

[keytouch]

Cheap enough to try but not likely to arrive particularly fast John. Have left the DRL's out of the equation for now as I'd rather wire them so they actually comply in terms of functionality. Ten out of ten for the lights so far today though - They completely pee on Hellas! Roll on darkness I say.

They look great even when turned off.

I just wish someone made a simple bracket to hold them in so didn't have to make something up.

[CovKid]

To be honest I think Itchyfeet's suggestion of cable ties is by far the easiest to do: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 8&start=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In fact at the weekend I'm going to mod the lights slightly (with a hot soldering iron) so they take cable ties. I like that solution - by far the most secure too. Think I'll be using black ones though. They won't show so much.

I would do it today, but want to test lights after dark so it can bloomin' wait.

[keytouch]

Would it be possible to just use the LEDs unmodified as sidelights forgetting the idea of DRLs or are they too bright?

[CovKid]

Too bright (in my opinion). I fired them up indoors and they lit the room up - lol. Some might just wire them up like that but as I say, but I wouldn't recommend it. I don't want to attract unwelcome stops on the side of the road. Relay is cheap enough - plus you get that nice courtesy delay thing thrown in. No need to fit alternative sidelights then either.

To comply, DRL's MUST dim if lights are on. They're for daytime use ONLY. Lot of retro-fitted DRL's don't comply (as we know). Mine will. Extends life of LED's too.

[keytouch]

Looking at that relay, presumably the wires labelled as going to the battery would actually need to be wired to a switched live that comes on when the engine is on?

[CovKid]

That or a manual switch yes. Easy enough.

One other thought (thanks Hakuna Matata) on many modern cars, if the DRLs blow, you have to buy a new unit. Same would be true here - except its only £45 for two complete lamp units instead of £200+ for just one as it is for so many vehicles now

A relay is worthwhile all round. On that basis if you buy the lights, my tip is do buy a DRL relay too!

[ghost123uk]

I wish "we" had known all this when I spent was it ~£100 on two standard units only a couple of months ago

[CovKid]

First VIDEO for reference - hope it helps.

Could have opened camera aperture a little more but its consistent exposure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mo047SFvraM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Almost zero scatter and VERY focused even at that distance. Both on dipped setting and same (standard) bulbs. Even the Hella ones are not that sharp!

Note the scatter above on the wall and lack of focus with old units. Very vague. New units may need adjustment - will see, but they're pin sharp in comparison and no chance of glare when set correctly. Old units (Hella and ECP) are basically 1960s-1970s torches and even with Osram Silverstars they're never going to be as good as modern dedicated reflectors which are computer designed.