Club 80-90 Forums

Early in this thread 'Midlifecrisis' posted a very clear diagram of the wiring for his 'petrol/no clock' dash. Does anyone know of a similar drawing for the late TD dash with rev counter and digital clock?

If no-one has posted one, I shall carry on trying to work it out for myself. Hopefully this will be in a form suitable for sharing.

Thanks

Hi gang,

Doing this as my PCB went, rips etc...

I have followed the wiki, to be honest its doing my head in.....

3rd attempt now. So will re do (again) the one in the picture





Couple of questions,

Cutting a track, is it just a case of getting rid of the copper?
does the longest stalk of the led go to the resistor??
what goes where on the back of the coolant and fuel gauge, there are 5 screws??

Lastly 14 pin connector,I have done this, but... I have 4 unaccounted for leads
Green?? - Rev Counter
Red??
White/Red??
Yellow??

Please help a grown man from Crying and thats from someone who has had a "pooh" year up to now...

Resistor can go to either leg of the led. ( but you must get the polarity of the led correct otherwise it will no worky)
To be blunt - you need to work on your soldering skills, the solder has bridged the tracks in a couple of places that I can see without looking hard. Work under a magnifying lens if you are having trouble seeing what you are doing.
Practice with a gash piece of board and wire, heat the track and wire to be soldered before applying the solder. Make sure that you have cleaned and tinned your bit first otherwise it will be hard to achieve anything. The bit will not transfer the heat easily if it is covered with oxides.
What wattage iron are you using?

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Resistor can go to either leg of the led.
To be blunt - you need to work on your soldering skills, the solder has bridged the tracks in a couple of places that I can see without looking hard. Work under a magnifying lens if you are having trouble seeing what you are doing.
Practice with a gash piece of board and wire, heat the track and wire to be soldered before applying the solder. Make sure that you have cleaned and tinned your bit first otherwise it will be hard to acheive anything. The bit will not transfer the heat easily if it is covered with oxides.

Thanks, and thanks for bluntness knew it wasnt the best.

Oldiebut goodie wrote:Resistor can go to either leg of the led. ( but you must get the polarity of the led correct otherwise it will no worky)
To be blunt - you need to work on your soldering skills, the solder has bridged the tracks in a couple of places that I can see without looking hard. Work under a magnifying lens if you are having trouble seeing what you are doing.
Practice with a gash piece of board and wire, heat the track and wire to be soldered before applying the solder. Make sure that you have cleaned and tinned your bit first otherwise it will be hard to achieve anything. The bit will not transfer the heat easily if it is covered with oxides.
What wattage iron are you using?

230, make of Parkside, 'borrowed' it from work.

Is there a way I can test it works without having to put it back on the van??

Have a multimeter also 'borrowed' from work

Parkside is one of the brands sold by Lidl and the like I think.
230 watts? I should think that is the voltage. 18 watt iron is enough for this job.
(I am not convinced that you have the voltage regulator in the correct orientation - but it depends upon whether you are using the original VW offering or a replacement which is reversed)
I wouldn't bother with trying it yet not without checking it over making sure that all solder joints are sound and are not joining two tracks. There appears to be extraneous whiskers of wire sprouting around the holes where the wires are inserted - all lead to a chance of them shorting. Neatness with the soldering and wiring will help tracing the circuits through when checking.
This end is extremely suspect

For bench testing it out of the van, you can just carefully apply 12v to the tracks you're testing, ie alt light, while grounding the ground track to the same battery. Just careful not to short anything by brushing the wires against anything.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

I found it easier to put the whole 10v wiring on a small separate board and mount it on the top of the right hand clock housing with some foam tape.. Makes the main board less complicated and easier to get your head round.
Plus if/when your 10v regulator goes pop, it's easy to get to.

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Right then take 3 ready to rock.

Reused regulator from old cluster.

Tested main beam out of van, that worked.

Made sure no solder crossed onto separate track

We shall see

That's looking better.

Thumbs up

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Cheers guys, I feel acceptance and warmness.

But,

it still doesnt f*&**%g work. Bloody hell.

Light comes on coolant, nothing else,led lights look sentive. it's hard soldering those bad boys on.

If the coolant light works for self check, does that mean the regulator is OK?? Nothing on fuel gauge.

Going to try one more time

Keep up the good work - I'm working on your Plan B tonight!

If the coolant light works that is a good bet that the 10V reg is working - but then the fuel gauge should work - all that needs is a good 10V and the fuel sender signal!?!

MidLifeCrisis wrote:Keep up the good work - I'm working on your Plan B tonight!

If the coolant light works that is a good bet that the 10V reg is working - but then the fuel gauge should work - all that needs is a good 10V and the fuel sender signal!?!

thanks.

Just to confirm, for the fuel gauge, on the back of the dash, which one is 10v and which one is the sender??

crazyhorse wrote: Just to confirm, for the fuel gauge, on the back of the dash, which one is 10v and which one is the sender??

This layout shows the position of the fuel gauge screws - it oriented as if you are looking at the back of the gauge



Relate the drawing to this if it helps ....