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PostPosted: 04 Jun 2007, 18:15
by HarryMann
Think we could find space to put that video up somewhere, please send to me at:

moderator@club80-90syncro.co.uk

Thanks!

PostPosted: 04 Jun 2007, 20:01
by CovKid
Sent, and by the way, the full colour chart is REALLY inspiring.

Murdoch - good to hear you're giving it a go. The magic is in the thinning down. Too much and it'll run off, too little and it goes on like toffee. Get it right and its smooth as silk!

Bad time to do outdoors at mo unless you start before the insects start buzzing around.

Get your pics up Murdoch!!!

PostPosted: 04 Jun 2007, 20:09
by murdoch
i did notice today, that my colleages black 06 reg Hyoondie 4x4 thing has a paint finish that equals my first roller coat!!! albeit a little shinier!
so you could get away with not flatting back if didn't want too.
i just wanted me van to be all one colour for the mot man, so a couple of coats will do fine for that, if ( sorry, when) it passes and when i get a little more time i can flat, polish and roll when ever i need.

PostPosted: 04 Jun 2007, 20:23
by CovKid
Not bad though Murdoch is it? You're quite right though, even unflatted its not far off some new cars straight off the production line. If you go back and rework areas you did four minutes ago you can run into problems but if you work fast you can get a very acceptable finish.

I presume you saw the photo a page back with a flatted area on the front end of my bus? You do need at least four coats to give you something to cut back to but generally two to three coats will obliterate a patchy looking T25 if you don't want to bother flatting.

In any event it'll look smarter than a shabby rusty wedge and shrugs off British weather no problem. Have a go at washing it Murdoch - its hilarious - nothing sticks - soapy water runs straight down. Most odd!

PostPosted: 04 Jun 2007, 21:33
by Cruz
This has really inspired me to finally get my knackered drivers side panel fixed and passenger side rear wheel arch ready for my own roller paint attempt next April. It will take me that long as I'll not do the bodywork fixes until this years camping season is over (oct) as I'll need to take the interior out to see the full extent of the damage to the sill as the panel has finally split underneath the 'hide the rust' plate. :cry:

Going to order the vactan and paint now so I've got it all ready.

Covkid how many coats did you do? 3 at 25% plus a final coat at 50% thinners?

Thanks again for the inspiration

PostPosted: 04 Jun 2007, 21:59
by HarryMann
Here's a video taster from Ralph and Ron...

http://www.syncronauts.org.uk/roller_technique.wmv

More to come, when we'll put a link in the Wiki to it.

PostPosted: 04 Jun 2007, 22:37
by CovKid
Coats - 4 minimum for flatting back. 5 is luxury but you'd need some flatting between layers to keep it all reasonably level and to remove tiny high points. The thinning ratio depends on weather/temperature but as a guide, try 15-20% to start with. What you're aiming for is a thin custard - not watery. 20-25% may be a bit too thin sometimes. The thin custard is a good rule of thumb though and you can adjust if need be.

Forget the 50% thinners. Its far too watery. I tried!

You get the paint on fast and aim for good cover on a panel then spend those extra moments with barely any pressure on the roller taking out any roller marks and picking up odd runs but once it looks ok, DON'T come back to it - let it dry. just watch any areas where there are lips as paint can build up on these areas and cause runs beneath.

You will get roller marks but Rob and I found that you could move these to the edges of panels by rollering in an opposite direction - hard to describe unless you do the job yourself. Theres so much satisafaction in losing the roller marks and then seeing the panel half an hour later as it dries off - without a blemish.

As a reminder (and check my notes in the WIKI), these are high density gloss roller heads. Don't attempt this with cheap roller heads - waste of time. The handles and trays all came from local pound shops but you MUST use pro gloss rollers or you'll be artexing your pride and joy.

Sometimes with a new roller that hasn't been fully saturated to remove air bubbles, you'll get millions of tiny air bubbles when you roller. Too much thinners will do it too. These will come out with just roller pressure but try to ensure the roller has been fully saturated then remove excess before applying to your wedge and that you haven't thinned it too much - it's less fuss.

ChickenKoop had never applied paint in this way but after 20 mins on his own I let him get on with it and concentrated on spotting bits he'd missed or getting in front of him with a sponge brush in those areas that are awkward with a roller like the tops of windows. It works well if theres two of you as the other can keep the roller tray topped up and point out glaring errors before they flash dry.

Rollers CAN break up, particularly if they catch a rough edge somewhere so its useful to have a mate who can get a fresh roller saturated for you so you don't need to stop.

Like any kind of paint job, prep IS essential. Badly flatted filler will look CRAP when it has paint on so weeks spent flatting and priming (to highlight imperfections) are time well spent in my view. Rustoleum will otherwise go over any properly keyed surface.

If you get the odd bug decide to hang around, masking tape will often pick them off but don't paint if the air is full of them - thats suicide.

PostPosted: 06 Jun 2007, 18:48
by wasserleaker
thinking of painting my 'no two quite the same colour' fibreglass big bumpers and side planks by roller now, was going to get a place we deal with at work to spray em up, satin black, but think the gloss mini-roller method is worth experimenting with first, a few brushed on coats maybe, finished with a couple of roller coats, left un-flatted, stipply finish? will experiment! :)

PostPosted: 11 Jun 2007, 16:53
by CovKid
Just roller em. You'll get a nigh on perfect finish with matt!

PostPosted: 11 Jun 2007, 18:51
by wasserleaker
Thanks, Covkid, only just noticed that they do a satin black, ideal for the bumpers.might be good on my kite buggy too, its a never ending job to keep it from rusting as it get used on beaches, forever sanding off rust and re-painting with lesser paints.

PostPosted: 11 Jun 2007, 22:54
by CovKid
Its worth getting hold of the FULL paint chart as it covers MANY more colours than you realise. You can even get clear!

Image

PostPosted: 12 Jun 2007, 06:06
by Cruz
Any links to the full chart?

PostPosted: 20 Jun 2007, 22:10
by CovKid
No - you have to order that. Besides, unless you have a high-end monitor, the colours shown will be well off.

I must say, conditions for rollering outdoors have been diabolical lately. I did get a slight scratch the other day but a couple of goes with the roller and it was gone!

Anyone in or near Coventry thinking of rollering theirs?

PostPosted: 21 Jun 2007, 00:04
by toolsntat
If I ever get this lot sorted before it falls to bits :roll:

http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d128/ ... 2f1962.pbw

I would really consider it my best option , mind you the finish your getting makes me think a quick flash over with one coat would be more than enough to improve mine even without a body tart up :oops: :oops:

Need to splash a bit of Vactan around first off :wink: It don`t have gap filling capabilities by any chance does it ?? :lol: :lol:

Anyone fancy using me van to practice on :shock: :shock:

Rustoleum on-line Colour chart

PostPosted: 21 Jun 2007, 20:00
by VWlewis
Here it is ....

http://www.tooled-up.com/Artwork/ProdPDF/RUS2%20COLOUR%20CHART.pdf

I haven't seen a printed one...

where you can get a printed one? :(

Just done my first coat on my spare tailgate - very impressed with the paint even with the wrong roller ... not so impressed with my prep! :lol: