Paint Your Wagon - with a roller!

Thin bits of metal and bright blue light. Including glass & trim.

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Postby CovKid » 18 Apr 2007, 07:01

As I've said, the finish is in the flatting down - not the rollering. The Wiki covers the process in greater detail. I'm not sure I'd go as far as £103 for the paint alone though. The whole point of this really is to keep the job under a tight budget but we'll be interested to see how yours goes. Keep us updated!
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Postby bigshape » 18 Apr 2007, 16:48

top work there fella!

just a quick question for you - i'm thinking of painting some white checkers on my van roof and this could well be the way to go...
i quite like the idea of cutting back through the checkers to the blue underneath to give a weathered appearance, as if the checkers have been there a while - do you think this would be achievable?

cheers,
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Postby CovKid » 18 Apr 2007, 19:39

Yep!! This paint is great for two-tone or the technique you describe.

Incidentally tonight i went to wash/wax it. Boy that was different. Doesn't matter HOW soapy the water, it runs straight off. I'll swear it used to soak into the old paint.
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Postby bootscooter » 18 Apr 2007, 22:45

I too am thinking of using this stuff... how do you go about preparing say, a pretty good paned with a deepish, slightly surface rusted scratch in in it? Clean, treat, fill then paint?
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Postby CovKid » 18 Apr 2007, 23:18

I rubbed back a little with wet and dry paper then treated with a layer of vactan than flatted back, more vactan etc to rebuild surface ready for paint. The paint apparently puts a halt to rust but I like the belt and braces approach of using both. I have used the paint as a part-filler too.

Can anyone else using combicolor rust-oleum keep us posted on their own project with photos etc. Clearly I've sparked off a huge interest in painting with a roller (judging by the views for this thread) and it would be useful if we pooled our collective experiences together on this.

As an aside I've had THREE people in my street all say "Bought a new van?" so its been noticed!
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Postby HarryMann » 18 Apr 2007, 23:20

Sounds like decision time - to fill or not to fill, that is the depth of the scratch and the question :)
Can it be removed first with wet and dry to avoid need for a silly thin scrim of filler...

CovKid will be along soon (I hope)
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Postby bootscooter » 18 Apr 2007, 23:25

thanks for the replies.... just want to make sure that if the finish is going to be as good as I want it to be, it's not going to be spoiled by not being completely straight. :wink:
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Postby HarryMann » 19 Apr 2007, 07:06

I've had THREE people in my street all say "Bought a new van?"


Nope, just a handful of B&Q paint rollers :wink:
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Postby woody1977 » 19 Apr 2007, 09:48

i bought the combi colour paint, thinners rollers etc a few months ago after reading the huge thread about rustoleum on that american website(fifty odd pages of it.) i used the paint on my wheel arch repairs, but never got round to finishing the job and the rest of the van... this thread has kicked my ass into gear and i will get my van prepped and painted.

covkid, your van looks sweet.. nice one, you must be well happy with the result. 8)
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Postby CovKid » 19 Apr 2007, 15:00

HarryMann wrote:Sounds like decision time - to fill or not to fill, that is the depth of the scratch and the question ":)"
Can it be removed first with wet and dry to avoid need for a silly thin scrim of filler...


Go right down to rust with wet and dry or plain old sandpaper. I have NO faith in cellulose primer to treat previously rusty areas. In my experience it just doesn't work. However you can treat with vactan until prep time as any removed during sanding will be sorted by the rustoleum paint.

I keep emphasising this, but the finish is as good as the work put in on flatting back. You'll get areas that have an almost perfect finish and others that are less so. Keeping the area to be painted, flat at all times is the key since you'll be building layers of paint with this roller technique (much as you do by spraying) and even sprayers have to flat back to keep the surface smooth. The final coat (from my point of view) will be a more thinned paint to provide the final gloss, and if needed, a light flat with 1200 wet and dry and a final polish. A few ideas for final polishing on volkszone are mentioned. I've not covered it since I've not finished the final coat.

Anyone who says the finish is poor is NOT doing the flatting/prep work properly.

Up to now I'm using this hot sun to bake the layers I've done on the outside whilst I concentrate on interior places that need painting. By next week I'll be flatting outside again for layer 3 and since the temperature has risen significantly since I started, I'll be adding more thinners too.
Last edited by CovKid on 19 Apr 2007, 15:10, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby HarryMann » 19 Apr 2007, 15:07

.. and is it getting a bit hot for rollering too at times?
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Postby CovKid » 19 Apr 2007, 15:11

Oh yes, I wouldn't roller in this heat although you'd be fine before 10am I should think.
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Postby CovKid » 20 Apr 2007, 23:14

Just found this pic from my first day painting. Note masking tape on window rubbers (no real need to mask whole window) and 4" roller and tray on the ground. No need to cover wheels unless you're a REALLY messy painter although dustsheets over them would do.

Image
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Postby billymaya » 21 Apr 2007, 13:16

another quick question but do u have to do the van in one go? or can u do sections at a time? or would this cause diffrences in the paint finish?
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Postby HarryMann » 21 Apr 2007, 13:44

I believe a good + point is that you can do the job 'panel-by-panel'... cannot see why it would look different if you use the same paint and thin it much the same depenedent on weather of course..

Maybe a year apart and yo might notice a small shade chage is my guess, maybe not even..... :roll:
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