Club 80-90 Forums

I read that many reckon that sealing the windows when replacing them after working on the rust etc is a good idea.

Does this mean sealing between metal and rubber or glass and rubber or both? Planning on using Sikaflex 291 or similar.

https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/arbomas ... reens.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I ended up using sealant between both the window seal and body and the seal and glass,was the only way I could get it water tight.i used silkaflex 512.also don't buy justkampers seals they don't fit.i got mine from seals direct.

Well I've done one, the worst one, and tried to take into account the frilly metal edges. Re-used the existing seals because they look fairly new. Someone had tried to stop leaks by replacing rubbers without facing up to the crumbly stuff.

Inevitably the main seal ended up around 3mm short and the filler strip about 5cm too long! Time for a dab of black sealant.

Lessons learnt:
Seal Direct tool excellent
Don't cut fingers on rusty edges, blood on white van unappealing. Tetanus jab not a bad idea.
Use new seals, if you have been getting rid of rust you may have made the aperture a tad bigger.
Some method (helper?) of holding the glass in place from the inside in the later stages would have saved about half an hour.

I may face up to another window when my fingers have healed!

Much much easier with two. I nearly collapsed with apoplexy and went all Basil Fawlty when I did mine. Still need to seal it. Time to get the arbomast out of the cupboard.

Michael4 wrote: Don't cut fingers on rusty edges.

yep did that at the weekend, actually it was the cut edge of the inner panel, after a deep breath I calmly asked my little helper to get me a plaster while I held the window.

Several gears ago I did three windows on my own, god knows how.

Having tried to apply the sealant to the seal before fitting at the weekend I think it may be better to fit the seal then run a bead around before adding the filler strip.

I think I'm going to fit the filler strip, to check it's all OK dry then remove filler, add sealant and refit filler.

Those seals are like slippery snakes and when they are covered in black tar like sealant it can get messy.

this is worth watching, they must have a fish tank. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuIRUaUrVFI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Did mine with knotted string. Will get one of those seal tools next time

This is, I think an excellent idea:

"Having tried to apply the sealant to the seal before fitting at the weekend I think it may be better to fit the seal then run a bead around before adding the filler strip."

A seal covered in sealant is like a live eel.

The other thing that puzzles is why are the apertures rustiest at the bottom?

Like childbirth (which I haven't personally experienced) or kidney stones (which I have) I will get over the pain in time. It annoys me that the seal didn't fit when put back in but I reckon I understand why.

By the way, on our van the seals all have the join on the main seal at the bottom and the join on filler strip at the top. Is this the wrong way round? Does it matter?

Not looking forward to the seal around the louvered windows.

Michael4 wrote:
By the way, on our van the seals all have the join on the main seal at the bottom and the join on filler strip at the top. Is this the wrong way round? Does it matter?

I think it does, mine are all main seal join at top and that's where the video says to put it. the seal will leak and water will then have an easier route into the vehicle as it runs inside the seal, also the top is more sheltered on our vehicles under the gutter so less wet.

If you have the join at the bottom I'd pump it full of sealant.

link to related thread for reference http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=168126" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;