Club 80-90 Forums

Hi guys.
Sliding door is coming off tomorrow to deal with some rust on the bottom corner.
There's some rust above the sill which I'm going to tackle while I'm at it.
I'm contemplating replacing all the rollers while it's off, the door is very noisy and not easy to move. Hopefully that'll cure that.
Anything else I need to look at while it's in pieces?
Cheers.

Anyone help me on identifying the difference between the rollers on early/late sliding doors please?
The door is very noisy so I thought I'd try one of the "extra quiet roller" kits from CVC. They only seem to do a kit for 85 onwards however.

Late vans the striker plate is at an angle like this pic

Early vans are distinctly different and not particularly common, even my old bus which had an early fuse box had late sliding doors. Anyone correct me if I’m wrong but early is probably air cooled buses.

Great stuff. I'll go check this weekend. Thank you.

Ordered a few bit so far, repair panel for the bottom inside of the door and new track for the seal on the sill.
I'll see if I can get some pics up later.

An excellent way to reduce noise is a dynamat type produce inside the door and the rear quarter panel. Even a small patch will quite not down. The more you apply the better the deadening, to a point.

That's not a bad shout. I've got some dynamat extreme kicking about still. A few bits of the van have already been done, but I didn't go mad. It's never going to be the best sounding audio in there, so I figured it was just extra weight if did everything.

Compared to the weight of the bus, it’ll be a few kilos but the same effect that makes your speakers sound better, will make your van quieter. It’s worth putting on the actual door skin on the inside, not just the support structure that the door cards clip to like car audio installers will only do the structure around the speaker.
Another good spot is an the inside of the nose under the dash, it’s like a giant drum and inside the air ducts in the rear quarter, couple of people on here have used bitumen roof flashing tap for that.

Hope this photo works....



So I guess this makes mine early? Would fit with everything else.

In the mean time, I've got a new repair panel for the inside of the door. The outside looks ok, barring a small patch.
Has anyone done just the inside? Looking for tips if so please.

adie89 wrote: Early vans are distinctly different and not particularly common, even my old bus which had an early fuse box had late sliding doors. Anyone correct me if I’m wrong but early is probably air cooled buses.

not correct!

early were water cooled Aircooled and diesel upto 85

chewbacca wrote:Hope this photo works....



So I guess this makes mine early? Would fit with everything else.

yes early
the easiest way to tell is the sliding door handle length, early had a long handle and late a shorter one

Mocki wrote:

adie89 wrote: Early vans are distinctly different and not particularly common, even my old bus which had an early fuse box had late sliding doors. Anyone correct me if I’m wrong but early is probably air cooled buses.

not correct!

early were water cooled Aircooled and diesel upto 85

Thanks for the info.

Hi guys
So I've finally got the door back from the paint shop.
2 questions....
I have to really slam the door to get it to shut. Any advice on fixing that please?
Second? What grease should I use and where? Rollers, tracks etc?

Thank you

Hi Chewbacca,

I've never been able to ''push'' the sliding door closed, it's always needed a run up. I think it's because
off the small swing in at the back of the door for the lock to grab the peg, you need momentum for that to be
forceful enough to overcome that change of direction as the back of the door comes in. Hence Swishbang!

Lubrication wise, I use a squirt of 3in1 lithium grease on the top and middle runners where I can't
get my sausage fingers in and a small smear of grease ordinare along the bottom run, where I can.

M

there are no real bearings on the middle runner on a early, just a shaped runner on the track, so lubrication is the key, of its all nice and clean , no rust, candle wax works quite well, but silicon grease is normal but needs regualr replacement