sliding door lock repair

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mbcamper
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by mbcamper »

CovKid wrote:Personally I'd look at the bigger picture here. Firstly I'd find out if a mate can open your drivers door with his T25 key.

That's a very good point. I don't know anyone locally who has a similar vehicle, but I've discovered that another of my locks is not as secure as I'd like it to be, so a set of tumblers may be a worthwhile investment.

Finding a supplier is proving to be a challenge however. My local VW dealer didn't even know what a T25 Transporter was!

I have one lead at the moment who I have emailed to see they can help: http://dubkeys.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

mbcamper
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by mbcamper »

Just thought I'd post an update. So Dave at Dubkeys is definitely an option and he supplies exactly the wafers you need for your lock and he can work this out from your key code. Per lock this costs £13.50. This is similar to extra cost which Brickwerks charges for rekeying one of their new lock barrels.

In the meantime, I've been talking to a locksmith supplier who may be able to source a rekeying kit (box of wafers and springs). This could prove more cost effective for multiple lock rebuilds but I'm going to have to wait for a couple of weeks to see if this is possible.

Anyway once I've got my parts, I hope to show pics of rekeying other lock barrels.

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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by boatbuilder »

Handle parts in general seem to be hard to find as well. Like the return springs and the forks.

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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by CovKid »

I found these (despite the low price) are perfectly acceptable as front door locks.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-VW ... xydUJTPH48" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You just have to swap/change the wafers in one to match the other. This then gives you two brand new front locks plus two old front locks which you could strip for the wafers, plus any you can get from other defunct locks. I basically did that, working my way round until I'd done them all - except ignition which is a different kettle of fish.

What you should NEVER do is file wafers down to fit or you'll end up with a lock that almost any key would open. The advantage of a new lock casting (ie new handle) is theres no wear in it and it won't be prone to access without the correct key. Thats an important point to bear in mind. Messing about with wafers on a lock body that is already worn is a waste of time in my view.

Mind you, with a broken window, all of the above becomes irrelevant. They could try on mine but it won't be going anywhere under its own steam - I made SURE of that. :D
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mbcamper
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by mbcamper »

CovKid wrote:I found these (despite the low price) are perfectly acceptable as front door locks.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-VW ... xydUJTPH48" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Now it's interesting to know that you've been successful with rekeying these locks.

I'd actually been reluctant to get these locks as Brickwerks sell something quite similar but they specifically state that the key profile is different and can't be matched with your original key. https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/t ... -2020.html.

Having one key for all locks is something I want to keep!

So if I can get the wafers sorted out then this is a tempting option!

CovKid wrote:What you should NEVER do is file wafers down to fit or you'll end up with a lock that almost any key would open.

Completely agree, that's why I'm putting effort into getting proper wafers and potentially other parts too!

boatbuilder
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by boatbuilder »

I had thought that as well that the cheap handles couldn't be matched to genuine vw locks?

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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by CovKid »

I have no idea if you could put your old lock in these handles and not sure why anyone would actually want to put a worn lock in a new handle anyway, given that the new one is more precise, but the key that comes with it is certainly a VW profile and the wafers are identical to those in all other locks except ignition switch. I couldn't find anything wrong with the build quality considering the low cost. They look, externally at least, almost identical. It didn't take me long to change wafers in one to match the other but I did have a few new wafers to get me started. You can't open them without the right key and that has to be the main aspect.

Personally I think these locks are likely to become the only ones available anyway in time. The body of the OE handle wears out, making the lock and wafers work less accurately. The lock barrel assembly and key also wear. The new handles I bought have a more positive feel. Better I think to have all new. If it works, it works. I'm very happy with them anyway. :D

Chances are, your original key is more worn down than you realise and even if a copy of the key is made made, the profile of the key won't be what it should be. All you get is a copy of a worn key. You could retumble the new locks to match your OE key but I'd recommend you start with a brand new version of your key based on the original lock number (not simply a copy of existing key made at at a shoe repair outlet) to make sure key it is sharp and accurate once more - if that makes sense. That way handles will be positive and you could still use same for ignition. I prefer having one for doors and one for ignition - arguably it slows down would-be thieves.

I've not forgotten watching Mrs Mercdoctor open the drivers door of five campers in a row (including mine) with her own key. I recently asked her to try it on mine again - she had no joy.

There are a few ways you can approach this but the above is the best, most cost-effective advice I can give - if you want secure doors.

I'll warn you though. Trying to re-wafer a new ignition lock is an adventure you may wish you'd never attempted. There are a lot more wafers involved and more springs than you can handle. Expletives a plenty. I gave up after spending a whole weekend trying. If you wanted perfect matching locks throughout you'd have to start with brand new ignition lock then re-wafer all new locks AND handles to match that key. Life is way too short in my opinion.
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by weegaz22 »

mbcamper wrote:
CovKid wrote:Personally I'd look at the bigger picture here. Firstly I'd find out if a mate can open your drivers door with his T25 key.

That's a very good point. I don't know anyone locally who has a similar vehicle, but I've discovered that another of my locks is not as secure as I'd like it to be, so a set of tumblers may be a worthwhile investment.

Finding a supplier is proving to be a challenge however. My local VW dealer didn't even know what a T25 Transporter was!

I have one lead at the moment who I have emailed to see they can help: http://dubkeys.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In all fairness even if you do have locks that are perfect the van can still be opened with either some paracord/string/coathanger/slim jim or worst case (but most likely) scenario a brick through the window.
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mbcamper
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by mbcamper »

Well after a long wait my local lock smith had a bundle of goodies for me to play with this evening.

I've got a set of wafers, springs and some powdered graphite.

Image

There are 4 different types wafers.

So removing the sliding door handle again I started by removing the grub screw. You don't need to completely remove it, just enough to slide the lock barrel out.

Image

Once the barrel is out, you should have some parts which look like this:

Image

The part on the left is for locking / unlocking, the spring came from the end of the lock barrel (I had to remove it from inside the handle), we've got some springs and wafers (7 of each), and the lock barrel.

I cleaned it all up in white spirit and a paint brush. At this point you should have a good look at the barrel to see if it is worn or damaged. You might choose to use a new barrel if needed.

So the re-keying process is a case of starting at one end of the barrel, inserting a spring and a wafer:

Image

You then insert the key and see if the wafer is equally flush with the barrel on both sides:

Image

And then you repeat all the way up the barrel, trying different wafers. The one below was incorrect and you can see it sticks out with the key in the lock:

Image

Whilst assembling things finally I used the graphite in small amounts to lubricate the lock. I'm told that squiring with WD40 or similar is very bad as it attracts dust in the lock with obvious consequences. I'm a clock restorer / maker so can completely agree with this theory. I despair at valuable antique clocks which are liberally sprayed with WD40 to lubricate them! However I'd not use this on any clock!!!

Image

Once all of the wafers are in place you need to attach the lock barrel spring as shown:

Image

You can then start to assemble the parts in the handle. Starting with the locking lever. Note that the grub screw is facing upwards:

Image

Image

Once the locking lever is centred, you can insert the lock barrel (the key needs to be in the lock to stop the wafers falling out). Note the orientation:

Image

You then need to use some thread lock on the grub screw. This is what I use in my workshop:

Image

The grub screw only needs to be about 2mm below the surface. Don't screw it all the way in otherwise the lock barrel won't turn. It just needs to be far enough in to stop the barrel from falling out, but not too much to stop it turning.

The end result is a pleasingly smooth lock.

With all these wafers I'll have a go at a door handle next.

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lenry
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by lenry »

MBCamper,

I think you have just given me what I have been looking for, for ages... the orientation of the little spring has been annoying for hours. I can not get it to engage correctly (after moving the barrel to an altwenative handle).

If anyone has any further words of wisdom, please do share. I will try the spring alignment again tomorrow.
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by kevtherev »

Brilliant write up :ok

should be wikied!
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lenry
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by lenry »

I completely agree,

There isn't much on-line about the inners of the sliding door handle.
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by irishkeet »

great thread will be looking at mine soon and this will help a lot :)
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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by skinnycat »

Alan H Schofield sells full matching lock sets

http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/ ... H021L.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Re: sliding door lock repair

Post by ash1293 »

Thread revival as I'm bored waiting for some solvent to hopefully loosen my stuck wafers.

............ Found out why one of my locks was easy to open with anything vaiguely key shaped - all wafers were stuck in 'open' position, I've managed to free 3 of them but the others are stubbornly stuck.
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