Front wheel bolts siezed
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Front wheel bolts siezed
Can't get them out with a 2 foot breaker bar or with a Clarke CEW 1000w electric impact wrench
They were greased when I got the van a couple of years ago so I cleaned the grease off with brake cleaner and I guess they have rusted
Any suggestions other than taking it to a garage?
They were greased when I got the van a couple of years ago so I cleaned the grease off with brake cleaner and I guess they have rusted
Any suggestions other than taking it to a garage?
- clift_d
- Registered user
- Posts: 3294
- Joined: 04 Oct 2012, 23:51
- 80-90 Mem No: 11695
- Location: Hackney innit
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
Have you tried heating them up with a blow torch?
When you refit them I've heard some suggestions that you can use a weak thread lock to prevent corrosion, although this will possibly affect the tightening torque.
When you refit them I've heard some suggestions that you can use a weak thread lock to prevent corrosion, although this will possibly affect the tightening torque.
Last edited by clift_d on 28 May 2019, 18:44, edited 1 time in total.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
- 937carrera
- Registered user
- Posts: 3599
- Joined: 05 Apr 2015, 19:29
- 80-90 Mem No: 16333
- Location: N Yorks.
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
Hit them with a lump hammer.
Try tighteming them.
Heat will probably not be your friend on this occasion (the heat will likely go preferentially into the bolt)
The Clarke is rated for 450NM - in reality it will be less, my Milwaukee gun is rated 950NM and I still ended up using a 3/4" drive scaffold bar on rear hub nuts
2' breaker bar is not that extreme either - should be in stock
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... aker-bar/?
Try tighteming them.
Heat will probably not be your friend on this occasion (the heat will likely go preferentially into the bolt)
The Clarke is rated for 450NM - in reality it will be less, my Milwaukee gun is rated 950NM and I still ended up using a 3/4" drive scaffold bar on rear hub nuts
2' breaker bar is not that extreme either - should be in stock
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... aker-bar/?
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
- nevill3
- Registered user
- Posts: 996
- Joined: 26 Nov 2009, 16:59
- 80-90 Mem No: 8062
- Location: UK Lake District, Early 1.6D CS now 4 speed gearbox
- Contact:
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
I had this problem a few years back, the only solution that worked for me was a six foot scaffold pole fitted over the breaker bar. I supported the end of the socket on a jack stand to prevent it twisting/slipping off the wheel nut whilst I stood on the other end. There was no loud crack just a gentle easing of the bolts as they came free. At the time I was advised to seek out a truck workshop because their air guns work to a much higher pressure. I couldn't go because it was a seized brake on my van that necessitated the wheels being removed. Maybe the AA/RAC could help if you are a member.
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
I gave in and took it to my tyre fitters as they were open today.
the solution was a 3/4" 2 foot breaker bar, looks like I need to buy one.
My 1/2" breaker bar just bends.
the solution was a 3/4" 2 foot breaker bar, looks like I need to buy one.
My 1/2" breaker bar just bends.
- 937carrera
- Registered user
- Posts: 3599
- Joined: 05 Apr 2015, 19:29
- 80-90 Mem No: 16333
- Location: N Yorks.
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
Is your heart not in it today ?
My 1/2" breaker is a Sealey AK730 -- I haven't had that bend on me, neither, dare I say it, have I snapped the 1/2" drive which is the weak point
My 1/2" breaker is a Sealey AK730 -- I haven't had that bend on me, neither, dare I say it, have I snapped the 1/2" drive which is the weak point
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
I think I may have found the reason, front wheels are very hot after a 10 mile round trip, hub too hot to hold you hand on, that's not right
-
- Trader
- Posts: 2591
- Joined: 27 May 2009, 18:56
- 80-90 Mem No: 16628
- Location: hayling island
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
1/2 inch breaker bars always bend, they break otherwise, just stand on the end of the bar and bounce a little, they undo eventually
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
davidoft1 wrote:1/2 inch breaker bars always bend, they break otherwise, just stand on the end of the bar and bounce a little, they undo eventually
had a scaffold pole on it, it really didn't want to move, anyway it's off now with a 3/4" breaker bar
- bigbadbob76
- Registered user
- Posts: 1733
- Joined: 07 Nov 2016, 14:41
- 80-90 Mem No: 15707
- Location: Isle of Skye
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
I put a thin smear of Neverseeze on mine for just that reason.
I've been shot down in flames for admitting to this before but I've never had a stud come loose so I'll keep doing it and ignore the nay sayers.
I wouldn't recommend using GP grease though.
I've been shot down in flames for admitting to this before but I've never had a stud come loose so I'll keep doing it and ignore the nay sayers.
I wouldn't recommend using GP grease though.
'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
Split case club member.
- clift_d
- Registered user
- Posts: 3294
- Joined: 04 Oct 2012, 23:51
- 80-90 Mem No: 11695
- Location: Hackney innit
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
bigbadbob76 wrote:I put a thin smear of Neverseeze on mine for just that reason.
I've been shot down in flames for admitting to this before but I've never had a stud come loose so I'll keep doing it and ignore the nay sayers.
I wouldn't recommend using GP grease though.
If you lubricate wheel stud threads then I understand that the problem is not that the wheel nuts might come undone, but that you might over-tighten them and in so doing over-stress the wheel nuts & studs. To quote from the Bostik Never-Seez webpages:
Never-Seez reduces the amount of torque required for threads, while maintaining the same clamping force.
So if you lubricate the threads and then tighten to the required torque then you will end up with a significantly greater clamping force than VW anticipated.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
- bigbadbob76
- Registered user
- Posts: 1733
- Joined: 07 Nov 2016, 14:41
- 80-90 Mem No: 15707
- Location: Isle of Skye
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
Good point Clif_d.
Not that I ever torque them up but I don't stamp on the bar either, just a good heave by hand.
Just out of interest and my own curiosity I should maybe measure my "good heave" torque on the gauge at work when it comes back from cal.
Not that I ever torque them up but I don't stamp on the bar either, just a good heave by hand.
Just out of interest and my own curiosity I should maybe measure my "good heave" torque on the gauge at work when it comes back from cal.
'86 1.9 DG, 4 spd, tintop, camper conversion.
Split case club member.
Split case club member.
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
I'll just leave this here
My reason not to use anything was based upon the results of vibration testing commissioned where I work and anti sieze compounds did result in bolts coming undone compared to those fitted dry. It may depend on the frequency of the vibration.
And yes you get more stress in the bolt for the same torque and the torque to remove the bolt is much lower than if no compound is used.
My reason not to use anything was based upon the results of vibration testing commissioned where I work and anti sieze compounds did result in bolts coming undone compared to those fitted dry. It may depend on the frequency of the vibration.
And yes you get more stress in the bolt for the same torque and the torque to remove the bolt is much lower than if no compound is used.
- 937carrera
- Registered user
- Posts: 3599
- Joined: 05 Apr 2015, 19:29
- 80-90 Mem No: 16333
- Location: N Yorks.
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
Was there a problem with the front hubs/ brakes in the end ?
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine
- itchyfeet
- Registered user
- Posts: 12427
- Joined: 23 Jul 2007, 17:24
- 80-90 Mem No: 12733
- Location: South Hampshire
Re: Front wheel bolts siezed
937carrera wrote:Was there a problem with the front hubs/ brakes in the end ?
I think they have been overheating.
when I tried they were cold but by the time I had driven 5 miles to the tyre fitter they would have been hot possibly making it easier?
when I got home the hubs were too hot to touch and the wheels hot too, no major braking on the 5 miles.
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=168437" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;