Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
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Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
Hi all
I have noticed when setting up the gear linkage that the fork at the bottom of the gearstick where the gearshift rod is bolted through there is slight movement of the shift rod when an assistant wiggles the gear lever in the neutral plain. Is it supposed to be like that with some movement or should it be solid? I have a new gearlever and all the linkage has been rebuilt including the fork bushes. The reason I ask is because I am still having issues with the van going into 1st gear. Probably works 70% of the time but other times it doesnt fully engage first and crawls forward. All other gears are perfect.
Advice on the gearshift fork movement is greatly appreciated as I am trying to nail this niggle once and for all
Cheers
I have noticed when setting up the gear linkage that the fork at the bottom of the gearstick where the gearshift rod is bolted through there is slight movement of the shift rod when an assistant wiggles the gear lever in the neutral plain. Is it supposed to be like that with some movement or should it be solid? I have a new gearlever and all the linkage has been rebuilt including the fork bushes. The reason I ask is because I am still having issues with the van going into 1st gear. Probably works 70% of the time but other times it doesnt fully engage first and crawls forward. All other gears are perfect.
Advice on the gearshift fork movement is greatly appreciated as I am trying to nail this niggle once and for all
Cheers
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
Any gear linkage experts? I strive for knowledge
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
the bolt holding the stick and linkage together is a special thing M8 size shank reduced to M6 must be fitted with a locknut, only fits one way around and as it is shouldered it is the correct length between the two clamping surfaces. The two nylon bushes that the bolt slides through can split or wear and the steel part of the stick can overtime suffer from fretted hole, but a small amount of wear will not likely be the issue with gear selection baulking
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
Thanks for the reply Aidan.
So the occasional 1st gear baulking, what are the things that can cause this? Gear oil? Linkage adjustment? Although I have followed your setup instructions and the gears are great other than the occasional 1st gear baulk. The boot that goes onto the gearbox is split and I have a new one to fit but that cant interfere with 1st selection by being 'pinched' can it?
There are no noises when 1st baulks, it just crawls forward and can take a cpuple of goes beflre it gles in properly but then dpesnt happen again for ages. Would love to sort this as junctions are sometimes nerve wracking
So the occasional 1st gear baulking, what are the things that can cause this? Gear oil? Linkage adjustment? Although I have followed your setup instructions and the gears are great other than the occasional 1st gear baulk. The boot that goes onto the gearbox is split and I have a new one to fit but that cant interfere with 1st selection by being 'pinched' can it?
There are no noises when 1st baulks, it just crawls forward and can take a cpuple of goes beflre it gles in properly but then dpesnt happen again for ages. Would love to sort this as junctions are sometimes nerve wracking
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
5 speed
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)
- Aidan
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
so what is reverse selection like ? If it selects reverse fine but won't go into 1st as easily then maybe something external interfering with selection or maybe symptom of something in the box itself like a broken selector fork bearing or worn pinion bearing. What was on the drain plug magnet last oil change ?
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
Aidan wrote:so what is reverse selection like ? If it selects reverse fine but won't go into 1st as easily then maybe something external interfering with selection or maybe symptom of something in the box itself like a broken selector fork bearing or worn pinion bearing. What was on the drain plug magnet last oil change ?
Reverse goes in perfect. Drain plug was a little bit Christmas tree like approx 3 years ago when gearbox oil was changed after fitting rjes bellhousing. Van has done less than 1000 miles since then. Think it was filled with 75/90 gearbox oil although need to check the bottle in my garage.
The reason I thought it could be the gearstick fork bushes is because when an assistant changes gear, when underneath, I can see the shift rod rocks slightly from side to side where the shouldered bolt goes through the fork, bushes and shift rod. I thought there would be no lateral movement only fore and aft as it is a pivot joint in one plane only?
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)
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Re: Gearstick Fork Bushes and Retaining Nut and Bolt
Bump for Aiden if he is about
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)