Engine cuts out when shifting to drive

[Mooney]

Hi,
So ive had this issue for a while now that the engine cuts when shifting from park or neutral into drive or reverse. I've replaced the dizzy cap, rotor arm, vac advance, vac hoses, new brosol carb. New spark plugs, leads the idle cut off clicks when I disconnect and reconnect it. I've replaced the big air hose and carb gaskets which connect it to the engine. The engine also wouldn't idle until I turned the idle screen inwards 6 full turns. Recently just took out the transmission to replace the seals between that and the final drive.
I've read that my issue could be timing, torque converter or an air leak.
Any advice for trying to diagnose this?
Cheers

[Mooney]

Update: I redid the gaskets between carb and manifold and it can idle and shift into drive and reverse without cutting out now. Still really rough running so going to adjust timing when I get my hands on a timing light and tacho.

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[Mooney]

Also does anyone know where this goes? I've replaced the carb and cant seem to find anywhere it would go?

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[oilrag]

Hello
I think you have 2 problems happening co incidentally,
1) An air leak , the vacuum hose from inlet manifold to brake servo incorporating a small white plastic one way valve ,this is at left hand end of manifold jut before it drops downwards to l/h cylinder head,i suspect a leak at one of the joins in this line due to age and heat hardening ,this will cause the tick over problem .the servo hose you mentioned in your post is the starting point to inspect and replace .
2) The gear selector in the cab has inside the black cover a form of inhibitor switch,allowing you to start only when in P or N ,it also triggers the reversing light,the contacts wear over time and dirt gathers and stops a circuit being made when you select a gear, and engine cuts ,go back to p or n and it starts . new white nylon switch is available (brickwerks/heritage etc ,remove outer black cowling fixed by 6 or so self tapper screws and clean up whole assembly removing the crud and hardened grease,re grease pivot and ratchet avoiding getting grease on the brass contacts,check all wire terminals are in good order and tight on the connections,then replace contact unit,reinstate cover etc and all is good ,i had same issue on my auto .
Hope this helps .
G

[Mooney]

Hi G,

1) Replaced the servo hose and no difference.
2) The contacts are clean and the terminals are in good order. It cranks in park or neutral no problem

I'm back to my original issue of the engine no longer idling, might get 1 or 2 rotations before it sputters out. I think the gaskets between the carb and manifold may be the issue so need to cut up some new ones. Is there an advised thickness of gasket paper? Also I've read about using grease or silicon sealer for the intake between carb and manifold.

I've read with a new carb and the stronger vacuum that timing may need to be changed but how can i change it if i can't even get it to idle no matter how much i twist in/out the idle speed screw?

[oilrag]

Hi ,
ok, firstly stronger vacuum ? lack of vacuum is probably why it wont tick over .
it may have an air leak at manifold to carb joins as youve disturbed them ,but id also look at manifold to head gaskets ,try spraying wd 40 or similar around the joints when engine is running ,if eng speed increases when you spray yuove found your leak .
you say new carb ? brand new ? airscrew start point would be around 1 1/2 turns out initial set up from memory,but to set correctly everything else needs to be on point ,ie ,good compression,correct ignition timing ,plugs set to correct gap ,air filter clean ,oil in good nick ,then carb mixture will come right for mot test, CO less than 3.5% .
G

[Mooney]

Going to order new gaskets for the manifold to headers and carb to manifold. Engine currently won't run no matter what, it sometimes fires for a second or two then dies. Would a air leak likely be the cause of this as it running a couple days ago, nothing has changed in that time, battery fully charged. Can't hear a hissing or anything obvious

Brand new 'Brosol' carb remake of the Pierberg 2e3https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/t3-parts/engine/pe ... -9-dg.html

Can't do ignition timing as it won't run. I can borrow a compression tester, air filters clean, oil recently changed.

[Cobra88]

Hi Mooney

Make sure you have 12v going to the fuel cutoff solenoid on side of carb

Regards
Rick

[oilrag]

Hello again, by all means replace those manifold gaskets but do this first,ok, you replaced the ht leads ,check you have them in correct order and check you static ignition timing base setting ,info in the wikki, carb mixture screw should be screwed all way in ,then out approx 1.5 turns ,this will allow it to start . idle screw on throttle arm/lever needs to be set to just starting to open the butterfly flap on main body ,the choke butterfly will be in same position when starting from cold, far more open on a hot motor re starting .then spray around the joins wd40 and note engine revs,increase= air leak.
Oh ,and by the way ,stalling on an auto is cused by too low idlespeed ,it has to be higher idle speed than a manual box by nature of the auto box, im saying even if your torque converter was u/s the motor will run and idle ok .
G

[Mooney]

Hi so solved the starting problem. Spark plugs were sooty as anything. Cleaned them up and started right up!

Getting a new issue now, engine stutters and almost stalls out when pulling away. It hesitates revving in idle, have to feather it extremely lightly to accelerate. I've redone the timing and it's all good, dizzy plate moves when sucking on vac hose to advance. Especially bad trying to drive up hills, will normally cut out multiple times. Got a new cheap fuel pump off brickwerks and push rod so think that's not an issue.

[oilrag]

That symptom is 100% caused by an air leak on the induction side ,think ..... you open throttle ,hesitates,feather it off and picks up ....mixture is being weakened by excess air as you open butterfly and the jets cant add enough fuel to correct the ratio,shut throttle off slightly,air reduced ,mixture goes back to correct and engine picks up .

[ajsimmo]

The Brosal is a great replacement carb, but is not set up ready to fit straight out of the box. You usually need to set up the fast idle screw, choke, pull-down unit, accelerator pump, idle screw and idle mixture, ie all adjustable parameters.
The stalling on setting off could be too much accelerator pump quantity causing momentary flooding, hence it is better when gently pressing the throttle. Try backing that off a little, or hold the lever down with left hand whilst working throttle with right hand to see if it makes a big difference.

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[Mooney]

Thanks for the tips, will try them out this week. Made the assumption a brand new carb would be set to the correct settings but realise that's pretty unlikely. I imagine I can use the pierberg adjustment guide on YouTube for the brosal carb?

[ajsimmo]

Thanks for the tips, will try them out this week. Made the assumption a brand new carb would be set to the correct settings but realise that's pretty unlikely. I imagine I can use the pierberg adjustment guide on YouTube for the brosal carb?

Not sure as I haven't seen that, but unlikely that the settings will be the same. The choke mechanism works slightly differently, for example. The stepped cam is more of an "on then off" situation, much less progressive than the Pierburg. The drillings and jets may be different sizes, so will result in different adjustments, but the principles will be the same.

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[Mooney]

Update:

Adjust accelerator pump to reduce fuel squirted in. Still an issue.


Wound the mixture screw in all the way (10 full turns)! Backed it out 1 and a half turns. Much more pull when taking off now, still some hesitation and popping from backfires. Getting a mate to head up with a timing gun to reset the timing (didn't realise I had to plug diz advance, just removed it last time).

I think this is the main source of the issue so hopefully update in a few days with results after a proper drive!

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