twin solex Carbs sucking air

[paperhouselad]

Yes just seen your top picture, it should locate in the milled slot to slide the diapragm spindle up and down.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Ooooh Carb Porn pics.....

This is why a hammer and pliers are not in my carb overhaul tool kit....

If this is getting beyond you....

You can post the whole lot to me, and I can sort....

Cordialement.

[Bilson]

Here's a nice close up showing what must've happened when the carbs were refurbished last Thursday.

It's obvious that the bar connected to the diaphragm was forced into place bending the part of the choke mechanism that controls it, hence no fuel on throttle.

I can't see how this could've happened and gone unnoticed.

I should've just trusted myself to do the job properly.

[Bilson]

Hello,

Ooooh Carb Porn pics.....

This is why a hammer and pliers are not in my carb overhaul tool kit....

If this is getting beyond you....

You can post the whole lot to me, and I can sort....

Cordialement.

Thanks Sarran, I'd be very grateful to take you up on your offer if I find that I need to.

I realise I might make myself sound clueless, but I'm actually quite capable once I let myself get involved. The fact is, while I've known this van for a long time, I've only ever fixed whats broken, and the carbs have never been a problem for us before. I took the van somewhere to have these done partly in order to save my mum's kitchen from the appetising blend of petrol fumes and carb cleaner , but also to make sure I didn't mess them up.

The problem with bending this back might be that I think I need to remove the bar holding the choke plate in order to do it properly, and I've read about the screws shearing which will be an out of the frying pan moment for me. So I'm going to drink some tea, and weigh it up. I don't want to risk damaging anything else trying to bend it back in situe.

What are your thoughts on this perhaps being the source of the van not starting?

[Bilson]

Yes I'm sure thats been bent somehow, should be square to the face of the carb, to engage in the slot of the diapragm spindle, did you bend it back getting the spindle out? Looks like it will bend back though ok, try some bent nosed pliers if you can get some in, good luck.

Thanks for your input, it's really handy to get some confirmation I'm on the right track.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

That is not refurbishment.....that is vandalism....

The problem is that you will have to return the lug to its original position so that the flat part of the shaft of the accelerator pump diaphragm
will be able to slide freely.

Also note the nylon covered peg for the choke, this must be straight..

I would leave the butterfly alone, as you need a jig to drill the ends of the screws out...they have been 'peened' tight.

Think of it as being part of the learning curve......

It is snowing here, and I will have my school bus to clean off before starting...Ho hum..

Cordialement,

[Bilson]

Thanks for the heads up on the screws, I did notice something funny on the other side. You probably saved me there!

First things first, I'm taking it down to the garage tomorrow morning to give them a chance to have something to say.

After that plays out, I'll put my head about bending it back.

On the off chance, do you know of a source for the correct return springs? They also kindly replaced the original with what looks like any old spring they had to hand. I've found some that are apparently suitable for the 1.6, but nothing specific for 2.0. I might be overthinking it, perhaps it might not be that critical?

Nylon bit looks about right to me, much easier to sort that though if it needs a tweak

[sarran1955]

Thanks for the heads up on the screws, I did notice something funny on the other side. You probably saved me there!

First things first, I'm taking it down to the garage tomorrow morning to give them a chance to have something to say.

Take the carbs, leave the axe at home..

After that plays out, I'll put my head about bending it back.

It will go one of two ways..

On the off chance, do you know of a source for the correct return springs? They also kindly replaced the original with what looks like any old spring they had to hand. I've found some that are apparently suitable for the 1.6, but nothing specific for 2.0. I might be overthinking it, perhaps it might not be that critical?

Should be ok, the return is very light when set up...

Nylon bit looks about right to me, much easier to sort that though if it needs a tweak

Good, because replacement OEM is NLA...apart from in my spares box...

A weekend of air-cooled bliss...

Cordialement,

[paperhouselad]

When I took my diaphragm and spindle out for a refurb I had to bend the spindle slightly back to clear the roller part of the cam, I did this with a flat blade screwdriver twisting it against the casting so it would clear the roller, thus leaving the butterfly assy intact. On reassembly of new diaphragm and spindle I pushed it through so far then bent it back slightly until it cleared the roller into the flat milled piece, then tweaked it back into the hole. Worked perfect for me this way.

[Bilson]

Think it all went to plan, I used a screwdriver from the opposite end to give it enough room to let it past. Bending it back wasn't the struggle I had feared.

This is how it looks now anyway. I don't really understand how the choke interacts with the spindle, or whether it's just supposed to just let it move freely?

I can hear the pump working now so assume that this might get my fuel going? I don't quite understand how it would've stopped the fuel though, I assume maybe the diaphragm wasn't able to move which maybe in turn restricted the pumps function?

[sarran1955]

Hello,

A sucessful tweak..

I don't really understand how the choke interacts with the spindle, or whether it's just supposed to just let it move freely?

The white peg engages with the 'foot' on the coily spring inside the choke module.

I show this in several carb videos,engage the spring and rotate the module until the choke closes and the word solex is effectively upside down.

The presetting of the choke cam is important, it must engage on the little platform of the cam when choked and be free to move when the carb is
in the hot position, ie off the cam and choke fully open.

As these are electric chokes you can pre set them with a 12v 4 amp supply, heating up in about 2 minutes.

Cordialement,

[Bilson]

Thanks Sarran, I put it back together last night, I might have to adjust the position of the element, I just rotated it until the choke plate felt about right.

I was a bit confused by how the spindle interacted with the mechanism, but I guess it just needs to move freely around it? It must have been fouling beforehand perhaps causing problems with fuel pump?

Either way, unfortunately, my non starting situation hasn't been solved. I'm looking into whether there's a bad earth somewhere as the starter is sounding lazy. Perhaps better left for a different thread

[Bilson]

Took the left carb off earlier, as the pump didn't seem to be delivering fuel. It turned out that it was, but just a dribble, it seems the injection tube was partly unscrewed, and maybe a bit blocked.

Anyway, I'll hope that's been sorted now, but I think I've noticed a couple of bits missing from the both carbs.

I believe from looking at diagrams, the hot idle valve seems to be missing?

[sarran1955]

Hello,

The photo is a bit dark,

But if you are referring to the cast rectangular hole with 2 screws, I think you will find that on your model of carb, that it is a blind casting.

The cold idle enrichment device, with a 12 volt feed, is under the screw down plate. I would leave well alone for the moment, because the resistance and ball bearing thingy is NLA.

If in doubt put up some more pics....

Cordialement,

[Oldiebut goodie]