Hello,
That is clever OBG.....
The return spring seems correct, there are 3 springs in all, 1 on each carb, and the 3rd to tension the cross bar actuator.
I've seen these with horrible additional springs on the actuator, where it should move with a 'light touch'..
Cordialement,
twin solex Carbs sucking air
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
- sarran1955
- Registered user
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: 11 Mar 2009, 18:51
- 80-90 Mem No: 6754
- Location: 6, les Hauts de Sarran 19800, Sarran ,Limousin ,FRANCE
Re: twin solex Carbs sucking air
The return spring you could see on the carb is the one from the right side. I swapped it over to see if had any effect on the left carb's fuel delivery.
Here's what was on it. I didn't want to put it back on, so found a more suitable random spring for other side.
I'm still having trouble starting the van, trying to work out how to remove starter motor and replace bush without jacking up van.
I'm not sure if my arms are long enough .
Here's what was on it. I didn't want to put it back on, so found a more suitable random spring for other side.
I'm still having trouble starting the van, trying to work out how to remove starter motor and replace bush without jacking up van.
I'm not sure if my arms are long enough .
Aircooled 2.0 CU Twin Solex Carbs
- sarran1955
- Registered user
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: 11 Mar 2009, 18:51
- 80-90 Mem No: 6754
- Location: 6, les Hauts de Sarran 19800, Sarran ,Limousin ,FRANCE
Re: twin solex Carbs sucking air
Hello,
Getting the starter off with just a jack...
Like by the side of the road..
ok, disconnect battery, crack off off side rear wheel nuts, remove spare wheel if you have no axle stand, remove engine hatch. Brake on and in gear.
Lift using trolley jack beyond jacking point on cross member, use a piece of ply to spread the load
Remove wheel, use the 2 wheels as a stand to give you a measure of security..
Now, sitting on your fishing stool...
Remove wiring from starter.
Remove lower bolt.
Working from the engine compartment, loosen the starter top 'D' enough to put a screwdriver between the bolt washer and the
engine case. Release the nut keeping the bolt in place with the screwdriver.
The starter does not usually fall out...
You cannot test the motor off the vehicle, unless you have a spare bellhousing..
Wire brush clean the starter, and also it's recess on the gearbox, (thats the earth).
Their weak point is the solenoid.
Here is a picture from 'Stop smoking' of the 'D' bolt:
22nd May 2018
While you are at it, you might as well check the state of the clutch slave cylinder and bleed nipple...
and if you can enlist another human's help beed the clutch...
That will keep you busy this week end...
Cordialement,
Getting the starter off with just a jack...
Like by the side of the road..
ok, disconnect battery, crack off off side rear wheel nuts, remove spare wheel if you have no axle stand, remove engine hatch. Brake on and in gear.
Lift using trolley jack beyond jacking point on cross member, use a piece of ply to spread the load
Remove wheel, use the 2 wheels as a stand to give you a measure of security..
Now, sitting on your fishing stool...
Remove wiring from starter.
Remove lower bolt.
Working from the engine compartment, loosen the starter top 'D' enough to put a screwdriver between the bolt washer and the
engine case. Release the nut keeping the bolt in place with the screwdriver.
The starter does not usually fall out...
You cannot test the motor off the vehicle, unless you have a spare bellhousing..
Wire brush clean the starter, and also it's recess on the gearbox, (thats the earth).
Their weak point is the solenoid.
Here is a picture from 'Stop smoking' of the 'D' bolt:
22nd May 2018
While you are at it, you might as well check the state of the clutch slave cylinder and bleed nipple...
and if you can enlist another human's help beed the clutch...
That will keep you busy this week end...
Cordialement,
Re: twin solex Carbs sucking air
Thanks Sarran, some really handy tips there.
I put some feelers out to see if I can borrow a trolley jack earlier.
Seems like just getting the wheel off will be a big help.
I'm sure it's a wise suggestion, but I'm highly likely to leave the clutch alone for the time being . Thanks for your help
I put some feelers out to see if I can borrow a trolley jack earlier.
Seems like just getting the wheel off will be a big help.
I'm sure it's a wise suggestion, but I'm highly likely to leave the clutch alone for the time being . Thanks for your help
Aircooled 2.0 CU Twin Solex Carbs
Re: twin solex Carbs sucking air
Right, no joy acquiring a jack so far. I had a pop at removing the starter anyway from underneath the van.
It's easy enough to get and to undo, but from what I could see it doesn't look like there's a clear route out out between the drive shaft etc, and more importantly back in, so I decided the best move would be to leave it there for time being. I'm guessing jacking the van up allows the motor a much simpler route to get in and out.
On my travels, I also found there's a noticeable amount of oil leaking from the original fuel pump, so I'd like to get that blanked off. I've been wondering if I can do this as it is, or if I'm best off doing it after dropping the oil?
I can only find blanking plates from jk though after a quick look.
Also, I'm coming round to thinking I might be best off simply replacing the starter, so I can guarantee getting the van running, and look at repairing the existing one to keep as a spare.
It looks like the previous owner replaced it in 2016 (I sold the van 3 yrs ago and bought it back in May) and I don't know what starter was used, but it costed £112.
Is that the kind of price I want to be paying, seem to be some available at twice that, so just wondering how many days earnings I should be prepared to part with, and whether the one on the van would be worth trying to repair (if necessary)?
There's one form Euro Car Parts for a round £120, the brand is rtx but the picture shows bosch tabs on it. Any particular brands to look out for/avoid?
It's easy enough to get and to undo, but from what I could see it doesn't look like there's a clear route out out between the drive shaft etc, and more importantly back in, so I decided the best move would be to leave it there for time being. I'm guessing jacking the van up allows the motor a much simpler route to get in and out.
On my travels, I also found there's a noticeable amount of oil leaking from the original fuel pump, so I'd like to get that blanked off. I've been wondering if I can do this as it is, or if I'm best off doing it after dropping the oil?
I can only find blanking plates from jk though after a quick look.
Also, I'm coming round to thinking I might be best off simply replacing the starter, so I can guarantee getting the van running, and look at repairing the existing one to keep as a spare.
It looks like the previous owner replaced it in 2016 (I sold the van 3 yrs ago and bought it back in May) and I don't know what starter was used, but it costed £112.
Is that the kind of price I want to be paying, seem to be some available at twice that, so just wondering how many days earnings I should be prepared to part with, and whether the one on the van would be worth trying to repair (if necessary)?
There's one form Euro Car Parts for a round £120, the brand is rtx but the picture shows bosch tabs on it. Any particular brands to look out for/avoid?
Aircooled 2.0 CU Twin Solex Carbs
- sarran1955
- Registered user
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: 11 Mar 2009, 18:51
- 80-90 Mem No: 6754
- Location: 6, les Hauts de Sarran 19800, Sarran ,Limousin ,FRANCE
Re: twin solex Carbs sucking air
Hello,
You need to have the van high enough to easily remove the wheel with the suspension at rest..
I would suggest that when you have the parts ready, you rent an adequate jack and axle stands..
You will be best off compressing and removing the plastic flexy tube from the heat exchanger to the body, be ready for rusty jubilee clips..
For an emergency jack I have a Lidl 3 tonne bottle jack, with 2 ready made pieces of marine ply for safety. The jack is small enough to go sideways in the under
seat compartment, and the handle length is set with a tack weld, so it does its job, fits for storage..
and is now the right length to serve as a prop for opening and closing the spare wheel hatch...
If you can get the area round the pump clean, and with the pump removed get the mating face free of oil, use the blanking plate and gasket with jointing compound..
Make sure the studs are good, use new nuts and washers
The type 4 engine case was not originally designed to have mechanical fuel pump, they being fuel injection, so by a modification on the camshaft poked a pump pushrod
out to the weirdest place to site a petrol pump for the detuned 2 litre CU
They suffer from petrol in the oil when the (wait for it..) diaphragm leaks...
The only advice I can offer is to make sure that the price is for a replacement starter, and not just a service exchange..
Not a T1 or T2 starter, the T25 or T3 has a longer shaft..
I carry a spare starter in its bag tucked away in the off side rear of the engine compartment, along with pump,dizzy, coil and CV joint..
which one trip in two gets used to diagnose someone's VW holiday panic.......
Cordialement,
Bilson wrote:Right, no joy acquiring a jack so far. I had a pop at removing the starter anyway from underneath the van.
It's easy enough to get and to undo, but from what I could see it doesn't look like there's a clear route out out between the drive shaft etc, and more importantly back in, so I decided the best move would be to leave it there for time being. I'm guessing jacking the van up allows the motor a much simpler route to get in and out.
You need to have the van high enough to easily remove the wheel with the suspension at rest..
I would suggest that when you have the parts ready, you rent an adequate jack and axle stands..
You will be best off compressing and removing the plastic flexy tube from the heat exchanger to the body, be ready for rusty jubilee clips..
For an emergency jack I have a Lidl 3 tonne bottle jack, with 2 ready made pieces of marine ply for safety. The jack is small enough to go sideways in the under
seat compartment, and the handle length is set with a tack weld, so it does its job, fits for storage..
and is now the right length to serve as a prop for opening and closing the spare wheel hatch...
On my travels, I also found there's a noticeable amount of oil leaking from the original fuel pump, so I'd like to get that blanked off. I've been wondering if I can do this as it is, or if I'm best off doing it after dropping the oil?
I can only find blanking plates from jk though after a quick look.
If you can get the area round the pump clean, and with the pump removed get the mating face free of oil, use the blanking plate and gasket with jointing compound..
Make sure the studs are good, use new nuts and washers
The type 4 engine case was not originally designed to have mechanical fuel pump, they being fuel injection, so by a modification on the camshaft poked a pump pushrod
out to the weirdest place to site a petrol pump for the detuned 2 litre CU
They suffer from petrol in the oil when the (wait for it..) diaphragm leaks...
Also, I'm coming round to thinking I might be best off simply replacing the starter, so I can guarantee getting the van running, and look at repairing the existing one to keep as a spare.
It looks like the previous owner replaced it in 2016 (I sold the van 3 yrs ago and bought it back in May) and I don't know what starter was used, but it costed £112.
Is that the kind of price I want to be paying, seem to be some available at twice that, so just wondering how many days earnings I should be prepared to part with, and whether the one on the van would be worth trying to repair (if necessary)?
There's one form Euro Car Parts for a round £120, the brand is rtx but the picture shows bosch tabs on it. Any particular brands to look out for/avoid?
The only advice I can offer is to make sure that the price is for a replacement starter, and not just a service exchange..
Not a T1 or T2 starter, the T25 or T3 has a longer shaft..
I carry a spare starter in its bag tucked away in the off side rear of the engine compartment, along with pump,dizzy, coil and CV joint..
which one trip in two gets used to diagnose someone's VW holiday panic.......
Cordialement,