Hello, new member, clueless with coolant and other issues

[itchyfeet]

We can talk you through every step we like helping people who want to learn
My advice is not to ask 10 question on one thread as we all get lost, start new ones for different problems and don't try and fix them all at once , concentrate on the important ones and be methodical.

[itchyfeet]

you will get there

[R0B]

That radiator looks like it's been under the sea for some time I think you should consider replacing it.

[itchyfeet]

That radiator looks like it's been under the sea for some time I think you should consider replacing it.

looks to me like it could be leaking from the bleed screw above, worth checking, sometime it just spins as the thread is knackered but it could just be loose?

[itchyfeet]

Also worth putting you location in your info, there may be somebody local that can help, I have a few local people who borrow tools and share parts knowledge etc.

[Crisnsatch]

Don't be using rad seal. It can block your radiator. I have used k seal in the past, but using this can kill your header tank cap.

(It's always handy to let us know what engine you have)

Thanks Rob, it's a 1.9 petrol. 1984 van / bus. Was originally a mini bus but is now a day van. With full size R&R bed and removable cabinet

Forgot to mention it is also an automatic.

[Crisnsatch]

That radiator looks like it's been under the sea for some time I think you should consider replacing it.

It does actually Are they easy to fit yourself or do you need a workshop etc?

[Crisnsatch]

Also worth putting you location in your info, there may be somebody local that can help, I have a few local people who borrow tools and share parts knowledge etc.

Thanks very much, based in West Cornwall. Going to try and suss out all its or at least some of its issues over the next few days.

[Mocki]

what i have gleened from the thread so far is the rad or bleed screw is leaking, which when the van cools means its sucking air in , which it may well blow out when it heats up, but its using the reserve from the top up tank ( behind the numberplate flap) to keep the header tank full, as it shoud be
the system is actually very simple,
the engine gets up to running temp, the coolant expands, and is pushed into the top up tank , and as the coolant cools down and the pressure reduces it sucks the coolant back into the header tank , which, unless you have a leak, works fine.
the leak you have means instead of sucking the coolant back , its sucking air in .

changing the rad is not hard, its fairly involved , but not beyond a driveway job.
you will need to lift the front up ( standard halfrauds type car ramps are enough) and let the spare wheel down, then remove the sparewheel holder and its wire retainers. unplug the fan and the fan switch from the loom, and once you have let the coolant out of the rad ( take bottom hose off the rad and catch the gallon or so it holds so no furry creatures or drains suffer) you just undo the four m8 bolts and the rad comes down.... refitting is reverse of removal, as they say ! then you need to fill the system back up , and partake in the bleeding ritual, which as you have a early system is fairly long winded .........

fill the system up as much as you can open the header tank, and fill up, put your hand over the top of the tank, and squeeze the rad pipes, moving the water around and letting the air out, keep doing this until no more water will go in, then....... you already have the van up your car ramps, Put the heater on HOT, and undo the filler cap on the expansion tank, Run the van up to temp, so the thermostat opens, then increase the revs to 2000 rpm, top up the expansion tank, and undo the bleed screw in the radiator, and then the one in the engine bay(if it will, do NOT force it) Keep topping the expansion tank up, ignore the top up bottle(behind the number plate) and keep topping up until only water comes out of the radiator bleed screw, should take about 20 mins, then put the top on the expansion tank, close the rad bleed screw, but leave the engine bay bleed screw open(if you opened it) then reduce the revs to tickover, leave for about 2 mins then switch the engine off, go have a coffee for about 20 ins, then come back, start it up, increase revs to 2000 rpm, open bleed valve in rad, and if you have a caravelle with rear heater, open the bleed valve in the top of that too(by the in/out pipes)take top off expansion tank and repeat bleeding until no air, only water comes out of the rad bleed screw, when you think it is all done, then put the top on the expansion tank, close the rad bleed screw, the engine bay bleed screw open(if you opened it) then reduce the revs to tickover, leave for about 2 mins then switch the engine off. Job done......

It takes about twice as long than you think it should, and you always need to do it one more time than you think you needed to....in short, when you think you have finished, go have a coffee, come back and do it again.

[Crisnsatch]

That radiator looks like it's been under the sea for some time I think you should consider replacing it.

It does actually Are they easy to fit yourself or do you need a workshop etc?

Ok, so leak seems to be coming from somewhere behind the rad... But also there are some drips from underneath the van in the middle. Maybe thinking new rad and pipework is the way to go? Fair bit leaking out but main coolant bottle on left still full to the brim and one behind plate still has tiny bit in it. Tried the bleed nut, it look brand new compared to the rad. Loosened off, quite a bit started coming out, so tightened back up.

Any ideas what I'm roughly likely to be charged for the rad and pipework fitted or is it dependant on the specialist? I say specialist, as I'm not sure I'd trust a normal garage?

[Crisnsatch]

what i have gleened from the thread so far is the rad or bleed screw is leaking, which when the van cools means its sucking air in , which it may well blow out when it heats up, but its using the reserve from the top up tank ( behind the numberplate flap) to keep the header tank full, as it shoud be
the system is actually very simple,
the engine gets up to running temp, the coolant expands, and is pushed into the top up tank , and as the coolant cools down and the pressure reduces it sucks the coolant back into the header tank , which, unless you have a leak, works fine.
the leak you have means instead of sucking the coolant back , its sucking air in .

changing the rad is not hard, its fairly involved , but not beyond a driveway job.
you will need to lift the front up ( standard halfrauds type car ramps are enough) and let the spare wheel down, then remove the sparewheel holder and its wire retainers. unplug the fan and the fan switch from the loom, and once you have let the coolant out of the rad ( take bottom hose off the rad and catch the gallon or so it holds so no furry creatures or drains suffer) you just undo the four m8 bolts and the rad comes down.... refitting is reverse of removal, as they say ! then you need to fill the system back up , and partake in the bleeding ritual, which as you have a early system is fairly long winded .........

fill the system up as much as you can open the header tank, and fill up, put your hand over the top of the tank, and squeeze the rad pipes, moving the water around and letting the air out, keep doing this until no more water will go in, then....... you already have the van up your car ramps, Put the heater on HOT, and undo the filler cap on the expansion tank, Run the van up to temp, so the thermostat opens, then increase the revs to 2000 rpm, top up the expansion tank, and undo the bleed screw in the radiator, and then the one in the engine bay(if it will, do NOT force it) Keep topping the expansion tank up, ignore the top up bottle(behind the number plate) and keep topping up until only water comes out of the radiator bleed screw, should take about 20 mins, then put the top on the expansion tank, close the rad bleed screw, but leave the engine bay bleed screw open(if you opened it) then reduce the revs to tickover, leave for about 2 mins then switch the engine off, go have a coffee for about 20 ins, then come back, start it up, increase revs to 2000 rpm, open bleed valve in rad, and if you have a caravelle with rear heater, open the bleed valve in the top of that too(by the in/out pipes)take top off expansion tank and repeat bleeding until no air, only water comes out of the rad bleed screw, when you think it is all done, then put the top on the expansion tank, close the rad bleed screw, the engine bay bleed screw open(if you opened it) then reduce the revs to tickover, leave for about 2 mins then switch the engine off. Job done......

It takes about twice as long than you think it should, and you always need to do it one more time than you think you needed to....in short, when you think you have finished, go have a coffee, come back and do it again.

Thanks Steve, only just seen this after my last post. I could possibly buy all the gear myself and have a go but even though I'm in a quiet village, it is still on rd parking, so maybe a bit of a nightmare. By your detailed explanation though, it does sound achievable to do work that I thought might be a bit much. Wish I had a driveway and garage / workshop! Thank you again for all the excellent info.

[RogerT]

Ah, I see an opportunity to adjust your house move to a house with a garage - you'll save a lot of money on maintenance...

[Crisnsatch]

Ah, I see an opportunity to adjust your house move to a house with a garage - you'll save a lot of money on maintenance...

I wish,

[kevtherev]

Top man for doing stuff yourself.
Lot's of help here and encouragement.
We like a tryer

[itchyfeet]

Ah, I see an opportunity to adjust your house move to a house with a garage - you'll save a lot of money on maintenance...

Man up, you don't need a garage, as they say there is no bad weather just bad clothing.

I have never had a garage, most garages are too narrow to do most jobs in anyway.

Working on the road can be a challenge I realise and not really safe if it's a fast road.