Removing Engine

Big lumps of metals and spanners. Including servicing and fluids.

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jas915
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by jas915 »

Yeah I had to change mine as it was leaking,I just u done the 2bolts and the hose/pipe connection and it lifts out.if the bolts are no good ie rounded then that's makes things a bit trickier.
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The Hairy Camper
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by The Hairy Camper »

jas915 wrote:Yeah I had to change mine as it was leaking,I just u done the 2bolts and the hose/pipe connection and it lifts out.if the bolts are no good ie rounded then that's makes things a bit trickier.

Cheers, i should be able to get the two bolts off (one is destroyed though). I was hoping i wouldn't have to undo the hose/pipe though, normal spanner is no good on it and it looks like i need a flare spanner?? Anyone have any alternative suggestions?
1984 Autosleeper, pop-top, 1.7 KY, 5-Speed

jas915
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by jas915 »

You could probably leave the pipe attached and just tie the slave cylinder up out the way once you have it un bolted.tou really need a brake pipe spanner to get the union undone
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The Hairy Camper
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by The Hairy Camper »

I don't know how, but i got those nuts off!! :D

Image

Gear Linkage off too, should i cover this up?

Image
1984 Autosleeper, pop-top, 1.7 KY, 5-Speed

adie89
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by adie89 »

If in doubt plug it/bag it/cover it. Regret wasting bags, tape and rags rather than letting moisture and dirt in or oil and lubricant out.
Good job getting those fasteners out, Renew if you can, a stock of bolts is handy of various sizes, you can always shorten a bolt that’s too long. Make sure you check the bolt head for the tensile strength number 8.8 is normal but some applications like suspension may use higher strength 10. Something. Copper anti seize compound on reassembly.
Be ready to destroy your hydraulic fitting If it must come off and is buggered. If not, as stated above a proper hydraulic union spanner will become invaluable, or you’ll risk rounding every brake Union you touch.
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

The Hairy Camper
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by The Hairy Camper »

Cheers adie, i'm going to bag the gear shifter before i go to bed. Doggy doo bags are working great for this :lol:

The bolts/fastners were a challenge, bucket loads of plus gas and gt85 saved them, but i'm going to try and buy new bolts for everything i've removed. The main thing that has slowed progress down is rusted f'in bolts! :(
I will add copper anti seize compound to the shopping list :ok

I'm hoping i can just support the hydraulic fitting/green hose and leave it hanging there? I only needed to disconnect the clutch cylinder so i can lower the engine and gearbox?

I think everything apart from the gearbox and engine mounts are disconnected now.
Are the 4 bolts near the back of the gearbox all that hold it in place? And our the two main engine mounts all that hold the engine to the engine bars?
1984 Autosleeper, pop-top, 1.7 KY, 5-Speed

adie89
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by adie89 »

Yes you should be able to hang the clutch slave cylinder up then.
You’ll be a expert with seized fasteners by the time your done. Look for copper anti seize in a tin pot rather than a rattle can.
I’m not 100% on the diesel but the WBX sits in a U shaped frame near the exhaust box that bolts to the chassis and at the very end of the gearbox by the nose cone/output shaft on a Syncro
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

The Hairy Camper
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by The Hairy Camper »

Great, i will find something to support the CSC tomorrow. Really appreciate the advice adie.

The diesel engine frames sound different, but i'm sure the gearbox mounts will be the same. I'll just support the engine (and box) tomorrow and start undoing more bolts until it all comes loose :lol:

Cheers!
1984 Autosleeper, pop-top, 1.7 KY, 5-Speed

The Hairy Camper
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by The Hairy Camper »

Gearbox is free :D Undid all the bolts really quickly with my impact wrench (and plus gas).

Having trouble with the engine mounts though.
Can anyone confirm that this is the bolt that need to be undone to free the engine? If so i need an extra 24mm spanner to hold the bolt on the other side!
Image
1984 Autosleeper, pop-top, 1.7 KY, 5-Speed

The Hairy Camper
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by The Hairy Camper »

Thanks for all your help people, i actually did it 8)

Image

Image

Time for a brew!
1984 Autosleeper, pop-top, 1.7 KY, 5-Speed

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mrhutch
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by mrhutch »

well done!

if you get a minute support those driveshafts up with bungees or cable ties.
1981 Vanagon Westy Burning oil as fuel...  

adie89
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by adie89 »

:ok
Greta: 85’ LHD 2.5L Subaru 14in Syncro
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=165773

The Hairy Camper
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Re: Removing Engine

Post by The Hairy Camper »

mrhutch wrote:well done!

if you get a minute support those driveshafts up with bungees or cable ties.

Thanks mrhutch, i've not long got home and done this:
Image

The nearside drive shaft has been hanging for a day or two though. Will it be ok?
1984 Autosleeper, pop-top, 1.7 KY, 5-Speed

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