CU Cooling Flaps - Fitting into an installed engine

[Becky's Dad]

Hi Guys

My 2.0 Aircooled CU has been missing its cooling flaps since purchase. I have sourced replacement parts inluding a working thermostat.

Is it possible to remove the upper tinware to install the flaps with the engine installed in the van? I'm guessing I may have to remove the carbs to remove the tins.

[george2490]

You will need to drop the engine to remove those tins.
Its next to impossible to fit the tins and seal with engine in place.

[937carrera]

I remembered your earlier post for some reason

Lower tinware and cooling flaps missing I hope it hasn't been run for very long

[Becky's Dad]

I remembered your earlier post for some reason

Lower tinware and cooling flaps missing I hope it hasn't been run for very long

The lower tinware was promptly sourced and installed. I've had the flaps for a while but until recently not had time to fit them.
I have been using the van on occasions and monitored the oil temp which at 100/105c is within the normal running temp range of 80 - 120 for a VW Aircooled engine or so I have been led to believe from various internet searches. It will be good to have a post-fitment reading for comparison.

[Becky's Dad]

You will need to drop the engine to remove those tins.
Its next to impossible to fit the tins and seal with engine in place.

Next to impossible is better than impossible !
I'll give it a shot. If not I guess I only need to drop the engine a few inches rather than remove it so can leave most bits connected.

[george2490]

Just far enough to have access to the edge seal is enough.


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[sarran1955]

Hello,

Wongly flaps....

A deep seated conviction says fit the flaps locked open.

It will make no difference to warming up in normal conditions, and cannot jam in the closed position.

The only way to get at the tin ware without dropping the engine is:
loosen rear wheel(s)
Jack and axle stands
disconnect the gear linkage..

Support engine rear mount on jack, undo bolts and slowly lower the engine till horizontal, and the gearbox rests on another axle stand.

Carbs off, then lhs top tinware.

The screws will be grungy to undo; and the inside of the cast fan housing will be corroded.

A good clean out...oil cooler and around the cylinder fins..will do no harm.

I use the above access method to do spark plug inserts to get holiday makers home..

Air cooled Bliss..

Cordialement,

[Becky's Dad]

OK quick update .....

You DO NOT need to drop the engine in order to fit the flaps

dizzy out, carbs off, rear LH tinware off and then top tin screws out and there is enough room to lift the tins enough to drop the flaps in and connect the oil cooler one onto the pegs. A little piece of wood helped prop the tin up whilst connecting the oil flap side.

Gets up to temp a lot quicker but not sure the flaps opened to the hot position so adjusted them and now takes longer to warm up again.

Running temp hasnt dropped as much as I though - it now runs about 100 - 105 so about a 10% drop

[937carrera]

Thanks for the update. I had a look at my CU the other day and it didn't look that impossible, though of course there's always the potential for one or two difficult to access screws. Glad you have confirmed you were able to do it.

The wire for the flaps should be adjusted cold.

On the temperatures don't forget you are measuring oil temperature which can be viewed as an average. The flaps are there to direct air in the way designed. Not having the flaps there would change the airflow so you would probably have had localised hot and cold spots. Fluid dynamics is complex