I need a bit of advice.
Van gone in for MOT and failed on 2 trailing arms corrosion. The only fail. Garage says can't be welded, pretty rotten.
I can imagine I am in for a huge bill. What is the best way of approaching this.
If I buy new I assume they are naked and they need dressing with rubbers and mounts?
I'm kinda really upset not gonna be a straight forward repair is it
new ones are complete https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/trailing-a ... yncro.html https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/trailing-a ... yncro.html
but you'll need new bolts and there's a chance the brake pipes will need replacing, Brickwerks have most of it in stock plug and play
otherwise you'll need to find a set of good used ones, rebush them in all likelihood and also replace bolts and pipes
hopefully you don't find any other issues when the old ones come off
Mick at VW NW may be able to help with used stuff 07968367046
If you need to replace then the quickest would be a pair of new trailing arms with all the trimmings, but I'm afraid these will set you back around £600 from Brickwerks - for example see the link here for the right trailing arm kit.
If you can find a pair of good secondhand arms you could maybe halve that overall cost by the time you've bought all the bushes etc, but then you'd have to source all the bits separately and get them assembled.
If time is money, then you might find the BW route is more cost effective.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
OK thanks for the replies. Sorry I will upload some photos, though I haven't got the van back yet from MOT station. I am going to pick it up in the morning, the owner is going to show me the bits more in detail what's up.
Sounds like I'll require both replacing. Also there is sourcing the garage to do it. I don't think the MOT centre seem keen!
Been through this myself. Very hard to find decent used ones and you'd need to have bushes fitted which would cost extra. Check the mounting points for corrosion before buying the trailing arms.
It is a very significant cost, going for new. I’m faced with that too I think, after finding this on the offside. Won’t be looking at the nearside for a few months, but likely to be worse, as that gets all the muck at the side of the road.
My money is going to be going on new, (if I have enough money) as the plan is to keep the van.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?
88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.
I haven't got the van back yet, I'll see tomorrow what or how bad it is. I poked around underneath prior MOT and both underneath seemed ok, though I know there is more to the arms then just that. Though last year no advisories (same garage) and now 2 completely shot?
Tho one question is this classed as a specialist job? I read in Haynes there was some marking to be done or the suspension geometry could be permanently screwed?
I'll probably know more tomorrow. Though if gonna do it right I know it will be four figures. Be heartbroken to get rid of the van as my one major hobby now. as the football got all too pricey
george2490 wrote:I'm no specialist and did mine.
In hindsight I'd buy a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts out.
Probably take a fraction of the time.
Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
Ok thanks What about the realignment, as long as you mark it should be all ok? In the Haynes it says 4 spanners to not the most difficult, so looks like a usual competent garage could do this. Just looking at the fastest way to get it through otherwise another £40 re-test.
B&B components in Maidstone are selling new with bushes for £280 each.
I recently sourced some very good used ones from Brian or John Duffy on here...but dont recall his club moniker or user name. But they were well good.
Just changed bushes and spent a gruelling two days removing (cutt them off between chasis mounts and bolts) shot arms and fitting replacements. Include a bolt set for both sides. About £25.00. Plus a brake pipe £6.00. And a brake cylinder. £9.00. And drill arms for brake pipe clips. As mentioned expect brake pipe issues too. And while you are visiting this area think about replacing handbrake cables if needed.....then getting bolts out of bearing hub connected to arms were testing alone. And lots of Plusgas. I buy ten cans at a time now
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
george2490 wrote:I'm no specialist and did mine.
In hindsight I'd buy a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts out.
Probably take a fraction of the time.
Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
Agree with above. Angle grinder with 1mm cutting wheel works but l had one disc explode when it locked and threw grinder into wheel arch. I wear protective clothing and googles
Plua a brake hose clamp when (if) you part flexi hose from solid pipe.
And power wash area first. The amount of crude which collects sround this area is terrible
MaxStu
1989 DJ 2.1 Auto Leisuredrive rusty bucket.
1987 DG1.9 LPG Auto Autosleeper
"Blissfully happy in your presence".
