Air cooled 2ltr CU in Portugal - running like a pig.

[porthyt]

Yeh I have tried that to no avail.

Thanks though.

[937carrera]

It's running like a bag o spanners aint it

I don't think it's running cleanly on idle, and when you blip the throttle it doesn't respond as quickly as I would expect. Is the exhaust blowing also ?

She's certainly short of spark or fuel, given the voltage readings I think it's at least a spark issue, let's see what others think too

[tobydog]

It's running, so it's still sparking.

Is the fuel pump mechanical or electrical? You said it was replaced, if it's a mechanical one, what about the push rod length?

?

[porthyt]

I replaced it once this problem started as the old one was leaking oil quite badly. The push rod was only fitted 5000 miles ago and looked fine when I removed it. I have the old one (from before 5000miles ago) and it was a tiny bit shorter than the one currently in the van.

It is mechanical obviously. Lots of fuel at the carb fuel input on each side, fuel in the bowls etc. Feels like it’s blocked but I’ve cleaned the carbs and lines multiple times.

Cheers

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Distributor and coil in bin.

25€ used beetle SVDA dizzy and coil off e bay..

set the carbs up..

Before:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qayyc9Z4E0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

After:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsfo5ATgBp0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hope this helps..

Air cooled bliss...

Cordialement,

[porthyt]

HI Sarran,

Hoped you’d join in as well. I’m in Portugal somparts aren’t that easy to get hold of. What makes you think it is electrical and not fuel related?

The coil is 6months old - the distributor is probably original.

Thanks
Josh

[937carrera]

Just one other thought, depending on how desperate you are to get this sorted, if you order parts by early doors tomorrow I think Brickwerks can have them express delivered to you Friday.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

HI Sarran,

What makes you think it is electrical and not fuel related

This:

Hi,

a completely burnt out rotor cap and it still is the same? What would cause the rotor cap to do this? Checked the spark plugs and although sooty they were all sparking. Replaced the dizzy cap, changed for a spare coil and checked for vacuum leaks but still running terribly.

[quote="porthyt" All of this and she still drives like a pig. Idles and revs fine but as soon as there is any load (above 2k rpm) or the slightest incline
[/quote]

? Took her for a drive and exactly the same. At one point I plugged the leads for the idle stabiliser together and she accelerated normally for 200metres with power and then bogged back to being rubbish. Limped it home and stopped for the time being. . Trying to figure out the burnt rotor.

Hi,

changed all the plugs, got new leads from BW and fitted, new rotor arm and still no luck.


There is a decent delivery into each carb, bowls have fuel, idles perfectly and revs when in neutral as it should........... 1st drive of the day it’ll get 500mtrs fine and then bog down to the point where I am using my hazards to drive. Progressively gets worse each drive.....................However if I remove the vacuum from side of dizzy when we are driving there isn’t a noticeable difference - however we are at 2k-3k so not sure when it kicks in.

Josh

Hi,
Just tried that and I get 9.87 across the outside 2 pins and around 5v for the middle and the earth.
Is this too low?

Is the ignition amplifier the big square plug in the rear lhs of the bay? I just found an old one in my spares - plugged it in and the reading on the wires is 10.81v whereas the other was around 9.8v. Would this cause the problem?

Hi,

Just drove it with the different amplifier. Started up really well - almost instant. But still drives the same.

Checked the voltages of the hall sensor outside to outside it measures 10.84v and the same outside to an engine earth.

So as I see it, you have several possibles...

Ask around to borrow a beetle/van distributor and coil, substitute, evaluate and decide.

You can order a new electronic distributor like this, and use your existing coil.



Fit it like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkyBAMMHpa4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or a points and condenser dizzy with a new coil
which you fit like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOiSOObjk2E" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

When you get sorted, you're welcome to pass by..

don't forget my special offer of free BBq and tune up for air-cooled visitors .....

Cordialement,



When you get sorted

[diabolov]

Hi,

Have you measured the float height in the carb? or checked the float needle? Didn't see a mention when I read the post.

https://vwt25.blog/2016/09/15/pierburg- ... justments/

This is taken from the above blog above which shows the card template he made to check float height.

The Haynes manual gives that measurement for many of the vehicles in here like you’ve got the Volkswagen Polos or the Vauxhall cavaliers. But for the Volkswagen Transporter which we’ve got, obviously, the float level needs to be between 27.5 mm plus minus one mm. So the template i’ve created is between 26.5 and 28.5. So as long as it fits between these two measurements we should be fine.

So i’ll hold it at 30 degrees roughly and position this over it and you’ll see it’s just under 28.5 and just over 26.5 so as long as it’s under that measurement which it appears to be that should be fine because we’ve got that tolerance of one mm.


Just looked up the engine, so ignore the measurements for the Pierburg 2e3 above and substitute your Solex if that's what you have. Also could the carbs be out of balance?

Good luck

Regards

Mark

[porthyt]

I can’t upload pics from my phone on to here but want to talk to you about my carb. Looked at it again today and found that with the solex pdsit carb split in half I can access the jets. If you look at the carb from the top you have the air jet, the middle section where the main jet tube runs and a small port. The middle section on one of my carbs has a cap/lid/cover on it but this one doesn’t. It is for the main jet and my logic is that the fuel is not coming through as it should or at all as this cover is missing.

Really hard to explain without pics I know.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?t=664110" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; 7th picture down you can see the cap/cover (looks like the back of a bullet) mine doesn’t have this.

[937carrera]

What made you go back to looking at fuel as the problem today, did you decide against completing the testing of the hall sensor cabling / voltage to ignition module?

[porthyt]

I did check the wiring. The coil, ignition amplifier were at 12.08v but the plug for the hall sender was 10.9v. I don’t where the volt has gone. I checked the wiring, cleaned up an earth under the dizzy, repaired some dodgy looking connectors but still the same. Figured maybe the idle stabiliser took some as the wiring goes from amplifier to stabiliser to hall sender. Without access to spares there isn’t much else I am able to do I don’t think.

I have it posted on a few different forums and some are adamant it is an electrical fault and there’s a fuel starvation. Ran the van from a jerry can but it was still bad so decided to tuck into the carbs again. After blowing it themrough with air again I noticed the difference with the LHS carb and hence my question about the cap/cover.

I’m still open to tests and ideas though.

Cheers
Josh

[937carrera]

I did check the wiring. The coil, ignition amplifier were at 12.08v but the plug for the hall sender was 10.9v. I don’t where the volt has gone. I checked the wiring, cleaned up an earth under the dizzy, repaired some dodgy looking connectors but still the same.

There's your answer then.

You are getting the full 12V at the coil and the ignition amplifier, but not at the hall sensor. You already proved that the earth connection was sound so it only leaves the feed wire to the hall sender as the problem. Sounds like it has a break on some strands or internal corrosion.

Run a continuity test on that length of wire to confirm it is high resistance, assuming that's the case then you need to replace the wire /loom.

Hmm, update, I've seen another thread where 11V was deemed normal, contrary to the other threads, so maybe that isn't the issue. I'll be with my CU tomorrow sometime so I can do some readings in parallel

[tobydog]

Depends on the voltage of the output/signal from the hall sender. From past experience of dying hall sender/ignition amp it happened quite quickly. The fact that the engine continues to run badly after a short while sounds like fuel / carbs to me???

[937carrera]

I thought the two outside pins were feed / earth, the hall signal is the middle pin, which is usually around 5v ?