Grinding from back wheel

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magictricky
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Location: milton keynes

Re: Grinding from back wheel

Post by magictricky »

Right so that 1/4 inch movement may well need to be even tighter.
Seemed to take up the slack though.
I'll know more when i road test it.

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937carrera
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Location: N Yorks.

Re: Grinding from back wheel

Post by 937carrera »

Be careful about over tightening the nut.

I undid mine with 3/4" ratchet and tightened up by hand without going to ridiculous extremes when I first did the brakes.

Next time I couldn't get the nut undone. I have a very good & expensive 650Nm whizzy impact gun. Didn't budge the castle nut, and I expected that it would simply impact it off.

Eventually I had to use a 7' steel pole over the 4/4 ratchet - thick wall because the normal ally bar was bending :shock:

I'm still confused about what happened, threads were clean and undamaged. The split pin will stop the nut slackening off.

By the way, the rear bearings in a T25 aren't taper bearings so they don't adjust like other vehicles http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... r#p8207550
1981 RHD 2.0 Aircooled Leisuredrive project, CU engine
1990 RHD 1.9 Auto Sleeper with DF/DG engine

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clift_d
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Re: Grinding from back wheel

Post by clift_d »

The nut is supposed to be tightened to a torque of 500Nm then turned to the next slot before sticking the split pin in, which is roughly equivalent to 50kg load on the end of a one metre bar.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro

boatbuilder
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Re: Grinding from back wheel

Post by boatbuilder »

Weight of person in newtons (W)
11 stone = 685 newtons
12 stone = 747 newtons
13 stone = 809 newtons
14 stone = 871 newtons
15 stone = 934 newtons

Hub Nut Torque(HNT) is 542nm (400 ft lbs)

Distance = HNT ÷ W
E.g for a 12 stone person...
Distance = 542÷747 = 0.72

So if you stand on an extension pole(totally horizontal) 72cm away from the hub nut, you should produce the correct torque!

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1984 1.9D (AEF Code) T25 tintop

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