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Re: WBXOily

Posted: 28 Nov 2017, 19:09
by itchyfeet
Thanks I use this which is far easier because it's illustrated and more trustworthy because it's a VW publication.

I haven't checked valve diameters, just the play page 15.18

http://syncrosport.com/info/manual/VW_T ... hanics.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 28 Nov 2017, 19:21
by 937carrera
That's a seriously useful link. Downloaded & saved 8) :D

Thank you

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 28 Nov 2017, 19:57
by itchyfeet
937carrera wrote:That's a seriously useful link. Downloaded & saved 8) :D

Thank you

To be fair most of it is in Bentley too, but thats free.

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 04 Dec 2017, 16:35
by itchyfeet
Has anybody got and tried and trusted way of removing compression seals / fire rings without resorting to a screwdriver, I have scratched too many heads before?

ImageP1080844 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 04 Dec 2017, 17:13
by weimarbus
Yep just tried this on an old head, gently heat combustion chamber with blow lamp to expand the bore squirt wd 40 through the tube onto the fire ring to shrink and out it will pop, well mine did and it was stuck before, good luck.

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 04 Dec 2017, 20:01
by 937carrera
That should work - you can also try a feeler gauge instead of a screwdriver.

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 05 Dec 2017, 17:58
by itchyfeet
weimarbus wrote:Yep just tried this on an old head, gently heat combustion chamber with blow lamp to expand the bore squirt wd 40 through the tube onto the fire ring to shrink and out it will pop, well mine did and it was stuck before, good luck.


Thanks weimarbus heat worked but I didn't need to spray it.

I heated the ring by going round in circles with the torch, the ring expanded and buckled lifting in one place than easy to lift out :ok

Not a scratch in sight.

ImageP1080852 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1080851 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1080853 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 05 Dec 2017, 22:18
by 300CE
Watching with interest Paul, looks like a nice easy job getting those out :ok

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 06 Dec 2017, 07:57
by itchyfeet
300CE wrote:Watching with interest Paul, looks like a nice easy job getting those out :ok

Everything is easy when you know how, it wasn't immediately obvious to me and I have done quite a few head seals in the past.

Its why I try to share what I have learned, I bet others have strugged with this too.

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 06 Dec 2017, 09:24
by weimarbus
There's not much point in getting older if you don't hopefully get a little wiser. The last time I thought 'it's only a little scratch' it led to pressurising the coolant around 10,000 miles later and scrapped heads.

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 17 Dec 2017, 17:36
by itchyfeet
Cleaned up head 1&2 today and ground valves, inlet for No2 would not grind it's had it, burnt by the looks, maybe lean the deposits were rock hard, found a good valve from a scrap head and swapped it over.

so that explains low compression on No2


No1 10 bar ( leaking oil out of plug hole)
No2 8,75 bar ( worn inlet valve)
No3 9 bar ( broken rings)
No4 11 bar

ImageP1090029 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 17 Dec 2017, 20:11
by what2do
Have you any pics of the worn valve and seat?

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 17 Dec 2017, 20:40
by itchyfeet
what2do wrote:Have you any pics of the worn valve and seat?

hard to photograph, seat is fine the valve is degraded so a 10-15mm section is not ground.

ImageP1090032 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 18 Dec 2017, 19:39
by itchyfeet
I decided to swap both inlet valves as I wasn't happy with the other either.

Valves refitted.

ImageP1090033 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

The inlet valves on the other are just as bad so I didin't even bother trying to grind them, I just swapped them with some from another head.

ImageP1090034 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090040 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXOily

Posted: 09 Feb 2018, 18:08
by itchyfeet
I really want this out of the shed before the camping season starts so need to crack on.

I need a parts list as it's not my engine so I want all the bits ordered

End float is way too much so removed the flywheel to see whats happening

ImageP1090517 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

quite oily not helped by the usual groove in the flywheel

ImageP1090518 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I like to cut the lip off the seal so I can see what I'm doing

ImageP1090519 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

punch the seal in a few places taking care not to slip off, it releases it

ImageP1090521 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

lever it out

ImageP1090523 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

looks reasonable, no disasters

ImageP1090524 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr



large shim should be 0.4mm this is where most of the wear is

ImageP1090526 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

other two are both 0.37mm

I had a new 0.4 'in stock' so tried it

o ring out first

ImageP1090525 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

gone too far 0.02mm ( want 0.07 to 0.1mm ideally, lower end of the range)

ImageP1090529 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

swapped a 0.37 with a 0.32 I had 'in stock'

thats good

ImageP1090530 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr