Over heating query

[ronsrecord]

Will do

[ronsrecord]

- will have a good look and sort out this weekend. Need to take the dash right out to put in a new heater fan anyway.

........I may be some time........

[ronsrecord]

Apologies for the delay!! New heater fan now in - not a job I'd want to do again in a hurry!

Now where were we? Okay this is starting to do my head in. I've replaced the level sender, unit42, cleaned all the earths, checked and attached voltage regulator (and have new one ready to go in - although I don't suspect this as petrol gauge fine - regulator looks fine).

The condition of the temp gauge now - it'll flash continuously, goes up and down like an Edinburgh ladies knickers, often want work at all, but when it does and up to temp sits bang in the middle.

Now when I take out module 42 - it continues to flash - like an Edinburgh lawyer type.

Aaaaaaargh! What's next??

[sarahandthebear]

Our water pump literally just went and we overheated really bad our fan was working but it stopped we think this is because the water was not being pumped areound to the fan be very careful have a look a thing the water pump see if you can see any leeks ours is peeing out all over the place

[AngeloEvs]

Temperature gauge needle unstable and LED flashing suggests that either the 10v supply to the gauge is intermittent, the gauge is faulty or there is an intermittent short circuit across the output of the gauge. Have you checked the wiring to the sender in the thermostat housing?

1 Check the nut that provides the 10v regulated supply is tight (might be worth measuring the voltage if the needle is fluctuating).

The gauge has three nuts. When sat in front of the dash and looking at the gauge face, the left nut makes contact with the pcb and connects to the output of the regulator. This is the one that needs checking.

The smaller middle one connects to earth but has no effect regards needle movement, it is purely for the micro chip .


If ok and voltage at nut stable then next:-


2. Isolate the gauge output from the external circuit by removing the wire that connects the output of the gauge to the external components, module 42 /43 and the temp sender.

The following only applies to post 1986 vans.

Locate the 12 pin edge connector and gently remove it. The edge connector has a section that lifts away to allow the connectors to be inserted or removed. If you look at the rear of the connector, one side is flat and the other side is curved. Using a small screwdriver, the curved section can be folded back about 10mm from the edge as if it were hinged to expose all the connectors ( made of propylene and will not break and why used as hinges). Connector Pin 6 (yellow and red) can now be removed. Fold the hinged section untill it clips into place and refit the 12 pin edge connector to the dash.

If the gauge is still faulty with nothing connected to it then either the gauge is faulty or the capacitor that is one of the dash components is faulty but unlikely.

If the temp gauge led is ok after the initial self test is completed then you have a wiring fault somewhere between the gauge and the temp sender.

[ronsrecord]

Brilliant - thanks Angelo

[ronsrecord]

Okay - if I'm doing this properly, voltage on the left nut fluctuates between 3 and 2.5.

Visually checked wiring at thermostat housing - nothing obvious. Should I now be checking continuity?

[ronsrecord]

Been studying new additions to wiki (which are brilliant), and working out how to use the multimeter properly. Feeling more confident to check van electrics now after replacing heater fan and resistors!! Will find some time over the weekend to tackle this properly.

Cheers folks

[ronsrecord]

Had a good look at things today. What is clear is that the connections on the pcb to temp gauge are completely knackered!

I've hardwired the earth connection which has resulted in flashing light operating as normal! Which is great!!! However, with all my mucking about I've managed now to knock out both temp and petrol gauges - which I suspect is pcb wear rather than regulator. Checked regulator and correct voltages at in and out.

My question is - can I hardwire both these gauges from the 14 pin connector?? and how?