Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
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Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
Hi guys. Hope someone might be able to help. I have a 1.6TD JX engine. I'm going to have the cam belt changed soon. Is there anything else I should be doing at the same time? Someone on Facebook mentioned a cam belt tensioner.
If anyone can spare a minute and has any advice, it'd be much appreciated.
J
If anyone can spare a minute and has any advice, it'd be much appreciated.
J
- clift_d
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Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
It's generally recommended that you replace the cam belt tensioner at the same time as the cam belt.
Other than that I can't think of anything that you'd want to do at the same time as a regular maintenance item, although somebody else might want to chime in.
Other than that I can't think of anything that you'd want to do at the same time as a regular maintenance item, although somebody else might want to chime in.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
- ZsZ
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Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
Belt should be changed with tensioner, usually sold in kits and you will need a new valve cover gasket too. On newer (post 89) engines with "noise reducer" Vbelt pulley kits involve crank pulley bolt as it can fail too
Worth checking shaft seals for leaks as easy to access to change, check waterpump altough no need to remove CB to change that.
Check valve clearances (shims needed to correct if out of spec), set pump timing.
If consumes oil then best time to change valve stem seals.
Worth checking shaft seals for leaks as easy to access to change, check waterpump altough no need to remove CB to change that.
Check valve clearances (shims needed to correct if out of spec), set pump timing.
If consumes oil then best time to change valve stem seals.
Zoltan
1986 Multivan ex-Caravelle. Van since 2006, running mTDi 1Z since 2008 with Fiat Croma 1.9 TDid pump 2008-2019, custom pump since 2019
5spd custom box 4.57 diff + 0.74 5th
1986 Multivan ex-Caravelle. Van since 2006, running mTDi 1Z since 2008 with Fiat Croma 1.9 TDid pump 2008-2019, custom pump since 2019
5spd custom box 4.57 diff + 0.74 5th
Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
clift_d wrote:It's generally recommended that you replace the cam belt tensioner at the same time as the cam belt.
Other than that I can't think of anything that you'd want to do at the same time as a regular maintenance item, although somebody else might want to chime in.
Thanks mate. Appreciated.
Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
ZsZ wrote:Belt should be changed with tensioner, usually sold in kits and you will need a new valve cover gasket too. On newer (post 89) engines with "noise reducer" Vbelt pulley kits involve crank pulley bolt as it can fail too
Worth checking shaft seals for leaks as easy to access to change, check waterpump altough no need to remove CB to change that.
Check valve clearances (shims needed to correct if out of spec), set pump timing.
If consumes oil then best time to change valve stem seals.
This is super detailed. Thanks so much for your help.
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Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
Back in the day: Valve clearances where done every 12K and so the cork gasket/rubber end seals were automatically changed. Trouble is only a few 'reputable' garages follow correct tappet clearance checking procedure nowadays so this incredibly important task is neglected, which leads to poor engine performance or at worst, burnt out valves.
Inlet: 0.2 - 0.3mm (0.2mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.3mm doesn't)
Exhaust: 0.4 - 0.5mm (0.4mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.5mm doesn't..you get the picture)
Martin
Inlet: 0.2 - 0.3mm (0.2mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.3mm doesn't)
Exhaust: 0.4 - 0.5mm (0.4mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.5mm doesn't..you get the picture)
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
California Dreamin wrote:Back in the day: Valve clearances where done every 12K and so the cork gasket/rubber end seals were automatically changed. Trouble is only a few 'reputable' garages follow correct tappet clearance checking procedure nowadays so this incredibly important task is neglected, which leads to poor engine performance or at worst, burnt out valves.
Inlet: 0.2 - 0.3mm (0.2mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.3mm doesn't)
Exhaust: 0.4 - 0.5mm (0.4mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.5mm doesn't..you get the picture)
Martin
Cheers Martin. I'm London based and it's been hard to find anyone here who will / can work on a T25.
I can't think that they'd have the expertise to carry out such a precise job.... if anyone comes to mind then I'd consider travelling to another location.
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Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
This task was just routine, I used to be able to check the clearances/change the necessary shims, refit the cam box all in under 20 minutes..probably take me closer to an hour nowadays..I've still got the pliers, follower push down levers and a draw full of shims, shame they haven't been used in years.
Martin
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
- clift_d
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Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
If you can get hold of some shims then I've got a pair of the plyers (10-208A) and the follower push down lever (2078) in Hackney if you're interested in having a go.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro
Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
California Dreamin wrote:This task was just routine, I used to be able to check the clearances/change the necessary shims, refit the cam box all in under 20 minutes..probably take me closer to an hour nowadays..I've still got the pliers, follower push down levers and a draw full of shims, shame they haven't been used in years.
Martin
It must be great to have those skills!! tha is again for the thoughts and advice.
Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
That's a really kind offer thanks. I'm not technically minded so this would be outside my comfort zone. I'm going to ask a mechanic for help. Cheers againclift_d wrote:If you can get hold of some shims then I've got a pair of the plyers (10-208A) and the follower push down lever (2078) in Hackney if you're interested in having a go.
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Re: Repairs worth doing with the cam belt
hibuli wrote:California Dreamin wrote:Back in the day: Valve clearances where done every 12K and so the cork gasket/rubber end seals were automatically changed. Trouble is only a few 'reputable' garages follow correct tappet clearance checking procedure nowadays so this incredibly important task is neglected, which leads to poor engine performance or at worst, burnt out valves.
Inlet: 0.2 - 0.3mm (0.2mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.3mm doesn't)
Exhaust: 0.4 - 0.5mm (0.4mm feeler gauge goes in, 0.5mm doesn't..you get the picture)
Martin
Cheers Martin. I'm London based and it's been hard to find anyone here who will / can work on a T25.
I can't think that they'd have the expertise to carry out such a precise job.... if anyone comes to mind then I'd consider travelling to another location.
Sorry about being a year late here but I suggest the garage I use - Westside motors, 391 high road, Woodford green ig80xg 02088505215. They work in t25s all day long and motd mine today.
Hope this helps
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