Club 80-90 Forums

Back on this

It's on the bench tonight and pulled the flywheel off, not much wear in the oil seal surface which is good, says to me low mileage engine.

P1060878 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

pulled the oil seal out and noticed the o ring and a ring of metal on the cranks, at least one shim destroyed.

I seems the flywheel o ring groove is made from an insert and this is now stuck on the crank, not seen this before

P1060886 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060887 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

flywheel should look like this and you can see the insert line.

P1060885 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

A discussion on Facebook ( yeh I know but there is quite a useful WBX page frequented by people like Marco Mansi, Andrew Simmons, Simon Baxter, Ian Holman... the list goes on and so I signed up just for that) they came to the conclusion this is a modified flywheel, now bearing in mind the silicone it's likely done by whoever reconditioned it.

Two conflicting comments were:
...VEGE= Elite
...As far as I know then vege don't build them. They are subcontracted to a Welsh man called Adrian who runs a Vw engine business in Deptford. It wasn't elite as far as I know but seeing as ever vege flat four I've fitted has had problems then that's the reason I no longer supply engines.



So It may not be a one off, I doubt a reconditioner would go to this effort to set up for one so I suspect there may be more.

The line on the good flywheel in the picture is a red herring, it's in a different place it's a score mark.

Stud removal next....

Next I want to try my hand at stud removal.

The mayo engine has one broken stud which is why it was full of mayo, it also has one stud that's too gone to put back.

So there are two methods I have read, one is weld a nut on , the other heat with a blow torch and a self tightening stud extractor. With both impact wrench is recommended

Using a self tightening stud extractor means you have to work on a longer stud because it just won't fit low down and that means flex in the stud, if you weld a nut on you can cut the stud off low down reducing any flex in it and transferring the torque to the thread better.

So I started with an old early DG case and had a go, the early DG so I'm told had a different steel composition so more prone to corrosion but worth a go.

I'm starting with the blowtorch and self tightening stud extractor method.

P1060973 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I clamped on the extractor first, probably not a good idea as it got a bit too hot, next time I will add it after heating.

10 minutes with burner on full chat

P1060975 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

impact wrench on
P1060976 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

and after quite a while not moving....

P1060977 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

time for another go

Did you try both directions with the impact wrench? What figures have you for the tool and is the extractor gripping firmly? I'd be inclined to cut the stud lowish (about one inch protrusion), weld a nut on, heat it up and then try again. It will come out for sure, it's just a case of developing your technique. Rotating in both directions is a definite help I can assure you. Bonne chance.

You can't tighten the thread with a self tightening chuck, it just releases.
Torque is 450Nm quite good but not adjustable, I must have ben on it for 30 seconds or more before it broke.

Going to try welding a nut yes but I want to try another couple of studs first this way, it must be possible, I have another DJ case with broken studs too for practice.

I have seen a different type of stud extractor that grips down low but can't find it for sale, any ideas where to get one?

Have you tried a ( hammer) tap/taps whilst unscrewing/tightening the stud?

Hi Itchyfeet
Been following your rebuild threads with great interest over the last few months or so, some great work being done.
Have found what I think is what you need;
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.d ... Ao1H8P8HAQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope this helps, keep up the good work.

dave friday wrote:Have you tried a ( hammer) tap/taps whilst unscrewing/tightening the stud?

Not yet, first attemp was last night with the impact wrench.

Does an impact wrench hammer down or just impact in torque?

Woodyyellow wrote:Hi Itchyfeet
Been following your rebuild threads with great interest over the last few months or so, some great work being done.
Have found what I think is what you need;
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.d ... Ao1H8P8HAQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope this helps, keep up the good work.

Thanks, the one in the pic is 3/8" there is so little space I suspect a 1/2" will be too big, keep looking

I don't know! My thought is as the stud has spent its life being pulled from the crankcase,a tap/taps in the opposite direction might break the corrosion!

This is the only 3/8" drive tool I can find but it's American and will cost a lot to ship
KD Tools KDS1708

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/pa ... ds_ca.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I would heat the area around the stud, once it was as hot as I could get it is would quench the stud with wet rags, it's the method I always use on bleed nipples and it's never let me down yet.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

As above but get a can of freeze spray for the stud, the shock of the extreme temp change can make quite a difference. I use the spray that is supposed to be for checking for cold solder joints on circuit boards.

Good idea chaps^^

Thanks for all the tips today, had another go tonight with a lot of success.

I can't say which thing I changed helped.

First I tried a DJ block to rule out early DG lower quality studs.
Next I placed a tube over the stud and headed the aluminium avoiding heating the stud.
I only heated for 5 minutes, my logic being the longer you heat the more the stud heats ( and it was oily and smoking badly )
I hit the stud 5 times with a lump hammer.

All three I tried came out, two were full length and one a stubby rotten thing, all with the chuck remover and electric impact driver, one long stud took a while to come out.

This has given me every confidence in getting them out of mayo engine but I will keep practising on these two old cases first over the weekend before trying.

P1060986 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060981 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060988 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1060989 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr