Page 13 of 15

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 25 Jan 2018, 19:06
by itchyfeet
Its clear that the problem is a little wear in the case which has made a small step, so I used some 1200 grit wet and dry to take the edge off and now it slides in and out much better.

ImageP1090293 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

next is to work out where it should be set, Haynes and VW seem to disagree, I think the confusion is because when you insert it with crank in place it rotates so there is a start position and a final position.

ImageP1090295 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Hays says

ImageP1090296 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

VW says

ImageP1090303 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

it's really not important other than clearance of the vac can so I checked the DJ setup which is more busy and I opted for the Haynes as a final position.

ImageP1090307 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

checked the new KS tappets slid easily through the bores

ImageP1090308 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

dropped the crank in and aligned the dizzy gear

ImageP1090318 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

didn't check this earlier because it was clearly good can't even get a 0.05 in

ImageP1090313 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

cam in

ImageP1090319 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

amazing how close some parts are :shock:

ImageP1090321 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Air cooled oil pump to match the 3 bolt cam, all looks good ( this will get o ringed)

ImageP1090324 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090317 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 25 Jan 2018, 19:14
by Oldiebut goodie
Patience of Job! :ok

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 26 Jan 2018, 16:57
by itchyfeet
Assembled the case to make sure it turns and nothing is wrong.
Yes I remembered to fit the cam bearings and the shells of crank bearing 2

ImageP1090327 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

At the recommendation of Marco Mansi I have opted for some molybdenum disulfide on the main high tensile studs, I have gone for dry spray.

ImageP1090334 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

all mating surfaces, nuts and washers and cam cap degreased with meths ready for closing the case.

ImageP1090333 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 27 Jan 2018, 13:32
by itchyfeet
Curil T on, I don't like this stuff much it's hard to get a thin layer, you get thick or patchy.

ImageP1090335 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

first nut

ImageP1090344 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

The the M10s and then the rest of the M8s

ImageP1090345 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090347 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090346 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 28 Jan 2018, 17:18
by itchyfeet
checked ring gaps

ImageP1090348 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090349 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

rings on ( top one needs a tool as its strong)

ImageP1090350 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ring compressior on tight, oiled barrel

ImageP1090362 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090363 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 29 Jan 2018, 08:44
by ajsimmo
Interesting that you put pistons in from the top. I have tried it, but it's not easy to do smoothly. Ialways put them in from the bottom, as per VW manuals. There is a chamfer to help the rings transition (or is it implementation?) into the bore. The cut outs seem to help too.Image

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 29 Jan 2018, 10:36
by colinthefox
Oh I do love a good engine rebuild thread. Thanks Itchy!


ajsimmo wrote:..................... transition (or is it implementation?)............

Classsic. :)

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 29 Jan 2018, 11:53
by itchyfeet
ajsimmo wrote:Interesting that you put pistons in from the top. I have tried it, but it's not easy to do smoothly. Ialways put them in from the bottom, as per VW manuals. There is a chamfer to help the rings transition (or is it implementation?) into the bore. The cut outs seem to help too.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


Not tried going in the bottom myself :rofl

Another case of me not reading the maual :roll: as long as the co pressor is tight they go in ok but you need to go in quick

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 29 Jan 2018, 15:48
by 937carrera
Reminds me of the first 412 engine rebuild I did (many moons ago). In my case I assembled the pistons first then slid the barrels onto the pistons using a big, well lubricated, jubilee clip as a piston ring compressor. My toolkit was nowhere near as extensive back in those days :roll:

Always more than one way to skin a cat, and as I have a CU engine to rebuild this is great prep :ok

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 29 Jan 2018, 16:05
by itchyfeet
VW manual says put pistons on con rods then barrels on so maybe that's why they go in from the bottom.

ImagePiston install by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 29 Jan 2018, 18:50
by itchyfeet
Well you learn something everyday, it seems 2.1s always had 10mm tappet screws, been through the collection and I have a set of rocker shafts with 10mm screws :ok

I'm sure there must be 2.1's out there with 9mm screws after rebuilds, I have certainly stripped a DJ with 9mm rocker screws.

ImageP1090372 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

just looked back at WBXlog DJ build pics which had the heads from Mayo engine and they are 10mm :ok

ImageP1060791 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 30 Jan 2018, 22:03
by itchyfeet
I wanted to O ring the pump but the 3 bolt cam needs an Aircooled pump and not only does it have a bigger port but it's not so deep.

No chance of getting an o ring groove in just over 3mm :roll:

ImageP1090404 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090405 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 31 Jan 2018, 19:41
by itchyfeet
Not so speedi sleeve fitted tonight, Most flywheels are now grooved and will leak oil past seals if not sleeved.

ImageP1090408 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

measure up

ImageP1090410 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Engineers blue ( or a marker pen) and scribe the depth

ImageP1090412 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

dermel in a vice with a crude depth gauge and cutting disk

ImageP1090416 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

clean up the burr

ImageP1090419 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

cut the rim

ImageP1090420 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

clean with meths, some oil resistant high temp Dirko

ImageP1090425 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

hammer it on

ImageP1090426 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

peel off the rim

ImageP1090430 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

file the edge off carefully making sure it's under flush

ImageP1090431 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ready to set end float :D

ImageP1090439 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 01 Feb 2018, 18:58
by itchyfeet
Started with a new thrust washer ( they come as a pair so one new on inside already) a 0.4mm large diameter shim and one 0.32mm shim

ImageP1090441 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

this plate stops the flywheel rotating when you do the measurement which makes it inaccurate.

ImageP1090448 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

about 0.35mm so I'm aiming for minimum float which is 0.07mm so I need a 0.28mm shim which I don't have ( all my shims are larger)

ImageP1090444 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

removed new thrust washer and replaced with a used one which give me some and then fitted some other shims to get the 0.07mm

ImageP1090445 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

not spot on 0.1mm

ImageP1090446 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

remeasure and swapped the smaller shims for very slightly bigger ones

ImageP1090447 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

spot on

ImageP1090449 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Re: WBXmayo

Posted: 01 Feb 2018, 19:03
by itchyfeet
I guess this was once on an auto, studs are not VW they are a bit of studding cut to length and threads in poor condition

pulled them out and replaced with studs from another spare case I had

ImageP1090452 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Thread locked in to 75mm for a manual gearbox.

ImageP1090454 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr