WBXmayo

Big lumps of metals and spanners. Including servicing and fluids.

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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 25 Jan 2018, 19:06

Its clear that the problem is a little wear in the case which has made a small step, so I used some 1200 grit wet and dry to take the edge off and now it slides in and out much better.

ImageP1090293 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

next is to work out where it should be set, Haynes and VW seem to disagree, I think the confusion is because when you insert it with crank in place it rotates so there is a start position and a final position.

ImageP1090295 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Hays says

ImageP1090296 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

VW says

ImageP1090303 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

it's really not important other than clearance of the vac can so I checked the DJ setup which is more busy and I opted for the Haynes as a final position.

ImageP1090307 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

checked the new KS tappets slid easily through the bores

ImageP1090308 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

dropped the crank in and aligned the dizzy gear

ImageP1090318 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

didn't check this earlier because it was clearly good can't even get a 0.05 in

ImageP1090313 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

cam in

ImageP1090319 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

amazing how close some parts are :shock:

ImageP1090321 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Air cooled oil pump to match the 3 bolt cam, all looks good ( this will get o ringed)

ImageP1090324 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090317 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Last edited by itchyfeet on 25 Jan 2018, 19:20, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby Oldiebut goodie » 25 Jan 2018, 19:14

Patience of Job! :ok
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 26 Jan 2018, 16:57

Assembled the case to make sure it turns and nothing is wrong.
Yes I remembered to fit the cam bearings and the shells of crank bearing 2

ImageP1090327 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

At the recommendation of Marco Mansi I have opted for some molybdenum disulfide on the main high tensile studs, I have gone for dry spray.

ImageP1090334 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

all mating surfaces, nuts and washers and cam cap degreased with meths ready for closing the case.

ImageP1090333 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 27 Jan 2018, 13:32

Curil T on, I don't like this stuff much it's hard to get a thin layer, you get thick or patchy.

ImageP1090335 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

first nut

ImageP1090344 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

The the M10s and then the rest of the M8s

ImageP1090345 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090347 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090346 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 28 Jan 2018, 17:18

checked ring gaps

ImageP1090348 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090349 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

rings on ( top one needs a tool as its strong)

ImageP1090350 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ring compressior on tight, oiled barrel

ImageP1090362 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090363 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby ajsimmo » 29 Jan 2018, 08:44

Interesting that you put pistons in from the top. I have tried it, but it's not easy to do smoothly. Ialways put them in from the bottom, as per VW manuals. There is a chamfer to help the rings transition (or is it implementation?) into the bore. The cut outs seem to help too.Image

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Re: WBXmayo

Postby colinthefox » 29 Jan 2018, 10:36

Oh I do love a good engine rebuild thread. Thanks Itchy!


ajsimmo wrote:..................... transition (or is it implementation?)............


Classsic. :)
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 29 Jan 2018, 11:53

ajsimmo wrote:Interesting that you put pistons in from the top. I have tried it, but it's not easy to do smoothly. Ialways put them in from the bottom, as per VW manuals. There is a chamfer to help the rings transition (or is it implementation?) into the bore. The cut outs seem to help too.

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Not tried going in the bottom myself :rofl

Another case of me not reading the maual :roll: as long as the co pressor is tight they go in ok but you need to go in quick
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby 937carrera » 29 Jan 2018, 15:48

Reminds me of the first 412 engine rebuild I did (many moons ago). In my case I assembled the pistons first then slid the barrels onto the pistons using a big, well lubricated, jubilee clip as a piston ring compressor. My toolkit was nowhere near as extensive back in those days :roll:

Always more than one way to skin a cat, and as I have a CU engine to rebuild this is great prep :ok
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 29 Jan 2018, 16:05

VW manual says put pistons on con rods then barrels on so maybe that's why they go in from the bottom.

ImagePiston install by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 29 Jan 2018, 18:50

Well you learn something everyday, it seems 2.1s always had 10mm tappet screws, been through the collection and I have a set of rocker shafts with 10mm screws :ok

I'm sure there must be 2.1's out there with 9mm screws after rebuilds, I have certainly stripped a DJ with 9mm rocker screws.

ImageP1090372 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

just looked back at WBXlog DJ build pics which had the heads from Mayo engine and they are 10mm :ok

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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 30 Jan 2018, 22:03

I wanted to O ring the pump but the 3 bolt cam needs an Aircooled pump and not only does it have a bigger port but it's not so deep.

No chance of getting an o ring groove in just over 3mm :roll:

ImageP1090404 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1090405 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 31 Jan 2018, 19:41

Not so speedi sleeve fitted tonight, Most flywheels are now grooved and will leak oil past seals if not sleeved.

ImageP1090408 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

measure up

ImageP1090410 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Engineers blue ( or a marker pen) and scribe the depth

ImageP1090412 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

dermel in a vice with a crude depth gauge and cutting disk

ImageP1090416 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

clean up the burr

ImageP1090419 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

cut the rim

ImageP1090420 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

clean with meths, some oil resistant high temp Dirko

ImageP1090425 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

hammer it on

ImageP1090426 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

peel off the rim

ImageP1090430 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

file the edge off carefully making sure it's under flush

ImageP1090431 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ready to set end float :D

ImageP1090439 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 01 Feb 2018, 18:58

Started with a new thrust washer ( they come as a pair so one new on inside already) a 0.4mm large diameter shim and one 0.32mm shim

ImageP1090441 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

this plate stops the flywheel rotating when you do the measurement which makes it inaccurate.

ImageP1090448 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

about 0.35mm so I'm aiming for minimum float which is 0.07mm so I need a 0.28mm shim which I don't have ( all my shims are larger)

ImageP1090444 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

removed new thrust washer and replaced with a used one which give me some and then fitted some other shims to get the 0.07mm

ImageP1090445 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

not spot on 0.1mm

ImageP1090446 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

remeasure and swapped the smaller shims for very slightly bigger ones

ImageP1090447 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

spot on

ImageP1090449 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXmayo

Postby itchyfeet » 01 Feb 2018, 19:03

I guess this was once on an auto, studs are not VW they are a bit of studding cut to length and threads in poor condition

pulled them out and replaced with studs from another spare case I had

ImageP1090452 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Thread locked in to 75mm for a manual gearbox.

ImageP1090454 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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