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Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 29 Nov 2017, 21:14
by itchyfeet
weimarbus wrote:I'm currently collecting bits for a new buggy engine and having read one of Tencents posts on cams I have opted for the 2280 cam for my new DJ build and will be using standard 1.1 ratio rockers given his views on the 1.25. The buggy only weighs 740 kg and I find that the current DG which has a Scat C25 cam with Type 4 solid lifters could do with more torque low down in the rev range although this may be exaggerated by only having centrifugal advance on the 123 tune distributor (Bosch 009 curve). I hope to have the engine together and running by January and will report back on the performance, although how reliable it will be is another matter. The DG has had around 12,000 miles of abuse with no issues.
2280 was very much recommended for the DJ on a well known social media site by Jason Rickson who seems to know his stuff but it's for solid lifters so that's why I didn't go for it.
similar duration to a DJ cam but with more lift. Peaky it was described as so no good for Hydraulics.
Are you going to run an Aircooled one size fits all cam gear?
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/2280.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Adv. Duration 274°
Dur. @ .050" 222°
Lift @ cam .359" (9.1mm)
Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .394" ( 10mm)
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 30 Nov 2017, 05:16
by weimarbus
Tencent said that he had done around 30,000 miles on the 2280 with hydraulic lifters, which is why I thought I'd give it a try, as I'll be using your sensible mod with the bigfoot pushrod tubes I can always swap to the solid lifters if it runs poorly. On the DG I have the clearances set to 4 thou rather than the usual Aircooled 6 thou the theory being less expansion with the wbx but it is still too tappetty after being used to the standard hydraulic sound. Strangely with an Aircooled it sounds ok I think.
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 30 Nov 2017, 07:48
by itchyfeet
weimarbus wrote:Tencent said that he had done around 30,000 miles on the 2280 with hydraulic lifters, which is why I thought I'd give it a try, as I'll be using your sensible mod with the bigfoot pushrod tubes I can always swap to the solid lifters if it runs poorly. On the DG I have the clearances set to 4 thou rather than the usual Aircooled 6 thou the theory being less expansion with the wbx but it is still too tappetty after being used to the standard hydraulic sound. Strangely with an Aircooled it sounds ok I think.
Interesting how theory and experience don't always match., I wonder what the state of the 2280 lobes are though?
I'd be interested to know how it goes, What cam gear are you using?
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 30 Nov 2017, 08:49
by weimarbus
itchyfeet wrote:weimarbus wrote:Tencent said that he had done around 30,000 miles on the 2280 with hydraulic lifters, which is why I thought I'd give it a try, as I'll be using your sensible mod with the bigfoot pushrod tubes I can always swap to the solid lifters if it runs poorly. On the DG I have the clearances set to 4 thou rather than the usual Aircooled 6 thou the theory being less expansion with the wbx but it is still too tappetty after being used to the standard hydraulic sound. Strangely with an Aircooled it sounds ok I think.
Interesting how theory and experience don't always match., I wonder what the state of the 2280 lobes are though?
I'd be interested to know how it goes, What cam gear are you using?
I'll use the standard aftermarket three bolt cam gear hopefully, depending on the mesh, the Scat cam in the DG has been fine with the aftermarket cam gear but the bolts do need to be peened and locked into a groove in the wheel, the cam was previously in an 1835cc beetle engine I built in 1983 and when taken apart the bolts had moved a little.
Performance wise I'm hoping that I will get enough grunt to be able to use second gear on trials hill restarts, if not it will be a better engine than the MV that's currently in the camper so may swap and think again.
I managed to find some new KS DJ pistons on German fleabay with new AA performance barrels and thanks to heritage black friday deals now have new AMC heads, I just need to order the TRW valves in from Brickwerks and then the heads can go to our local engine shop for a three angle valve job while the crank, rods, pistons and flywheel/clutch get balanced.
If you're happy to travel you will be welcome to a test drive whens it's up and running
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 30 Nov 2017, 09:25
by itchyfeet
OK so your requirements are a bit different
I'm sure the DJ will make a massive difference.
What carb(s) are you planning?
I hope you are doing a build thread the more people do the more others will have a go and save these engines
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 04 Dec 2017, 14:31
by itchyfeet
I have managed to purchase some cam adapters from Vanistan in USA, they should be with me in a couple of weeks, these allow the WBX gear to be bolted to the three bolt Aircooled cam that Newman are cutting to a DJ profile for me.
This should give me a DJ cam for around £170 with postage taxes and import duty
received_10209561566470190 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
received_10209561566230184 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 07 Dec 2017, 18:52
by itchyfeet
Helicoiled that sump plug hole tonight.
Easier when the case is split but I have used this tube drilling and tapping guide on an engine in place before and it works well.
If you don't drill and tap square it will drip oil.
Tube needs to be cut square and must sit down in the flat copper washer surface, this is a bit of 1/2" water pipe which I turned down and filed out inside a bit so the tap fits.
Helicoil kit, 14mm drill , 9/16" M14x1.5 helicoil tapping drill, 1D Helicoils ( drills are blacksmiths drills with reduced shank at the end or they won't fit a standard chuck)
P1080864 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Sits square to case but you have nothing to reference against when engine is in place and the tube makes it easier to align even with case split.
P1080865 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080866 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
drill 14mm then the 9/16" grease on drill to catch swarf
P1080869 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Tap it using the tube guide, grease on tap, regularly checking it's still square, early on you can correct the angle, later on you can't so check regularly.
P1080861 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080862 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080860 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
7 threads in aluminium 8 turns on 1D helicoil, need to cut one off with a cutting disc in a dremel ( washer prevents damage to the next turn)
P1080871 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080874 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
In with the tool until just under flush
P1080875 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080876 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
snap tang off with pliers or tool... Job done
P1080879 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 09 Dec 2017, 17:00
by itchyfeet
Drilled out the broken bolt for the push rod tube covers today
Centre punch
P1080880 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
studding as a drill guide
P1080881 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
nice and central
P1080883 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
lots of small drill increments until M8 helicoil tapping size
P1080884 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Tap using a studding as a guide to being square
P1080885 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
helicoil fitted, punch tang out
P1080887 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080888 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
tapped out all the other threads in the case
P1080890 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 09 Dec 2017, 17:08
by itchyfeet
Next remove the oil filter tube, there is only 15mm sticking out and it's very tight , these are two 3/4 UNF half nuts turned down to 7mm and tightened together with a 28mm spanner (ground down to 7mm thick), out it comes.
P1080891 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080892 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
measured depth of donor tube from a DJ ...70mm
P1080894 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
removed it same way and fitted to the new case
P1080895 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
1st step to being a DJ
P1080901 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 09 Dec 2017, 18:09
by 300CE
Nice work
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 10 Dec 2017, 12:20
by itchyfeet
Other than cleaning I can't do anymore on the case until I get a cam so next up is to measure up barrels and pistons.
I have previously used bore gauges that are then measured with a micrometer, I have been told they are not accurate enough so I purchased a bore gauge with dial gauge, it's certainly easier to use and takes much less skill but with the right method I checked and the manual bore gauges are showing the same results.
Happy I bought it though because it's so much easier to use ( about £35)
It needs calibrating with a micrometer
P1080903 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080906 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
checked against manual bore gauge
P1080909 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
No 1 -94.13 - it's clear it's in bad condition without measuring
No 2 -94.09
No 3 -94.09
No4 -94.04
P1080910 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080911 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 10 Dec 2017, 16:15
by itchyfeet
Check of the pistons, all look in good condition, no scores scrapes dings damage...good news.
Very little carbon build up also shows this engine was running well.
diameter 93.991 mm and all stamped + for weight group.
P1080912 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1080913 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
No1 93.95
No2 93.93
No3 93.90
No4 93.95
that's good news because all barrels and pistons are within the 0.2mm wear limit but only just on two, need to have a look at what other barrels I have that could be used, don't really want to have to buy a set but I will if I have to, I'm not putting parts back that are on their wear limits.
bent circlip, that needs changing
P1080914 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
rings off as I'm replacing them, all come off by hand except the top DJ rings which are too strong for my hands.
P1080916 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Weight check shows they are all good except No1 gudgeon pin which is 10 grams lighter than the others, need to swap this out to match weights.
P1080918 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 11 Dec 2017, 18:38
by itchyfeet
Job for tomorrow, check this lot
P1080923 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 11 Dec 2017, 19:43
by 300CE
Beer holders?!
Re: WBXmayo
Posted: 11 Dec 2017, 19:51
by itchyfeet
300CE wrote:Beer holders?!
Drinks holder.... probably shouldn't drink beer while driving.
P1050707 by
Paul_Barr, on Flickr
That or I weld a few old cases together and make a V12