Club 80-90 Forums

weimarbus wrote: if the oil temp is going above100 degrees and the water temp remains at 80 degrees then no heat is being lost through the standard water /oil cooler, does this prove that it is ineffectual?

I don't know what water temp is thermostat opens at 87 if I remember so coolant could be 90+
oil in the gallery and bearings will likely be much hotter than the sump temps I'm measuring so maybe the little cooler is doing a good job it needs investigation IMO.

I have one on my tin top DG and I'm going to fit a tap so I can drive it, measure temps, close the tap and see how much it increases.
Can't do this on the DJ becuse I have no temp sensor.


http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8213991" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

^^ last week did the same trip is 15 degrees outside and the oil temp was about 10 degrees lower then when measured at 25 degC outside.

I have my water temp sender in the main hose between the thermostat housing and radiator, the gauge always sits at 80 degrees no matter how long the journey or hills this is the same on the dash temp gauge,(sits just to the left of centre on the light), what I have noticed is that when the engine has warmed up at the beginning of a journey the oil pressure is better than after a bit of a thrashing so the oil temp is obviously increasing with the resultant loss of pressure with no increase in water temp, if the standard cooler was effective I would expect to see a rise in water temp.

weimarbus wrote:I have my water temp sender in the main hose between the thermostat housing and radiator,

this is after it's cooled by the rad, thermostat is on the return path.
The oil cooler takes the feed from the pump which I expect is much higher temp.

Oh, I thought that the thermostat was in the flow, opening to allow the hotter water to the rad for cooling, just shows how wrong you can be.

early van is a bit different but the principle is the same, the thermostat closes the short circuit when it opens the rad circuit.

the thermostat is in the engine circuit which is closed when the rad circuit opens but it's at the end of the rad circuit not at the start

http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Pe ... em_diagram" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Fuchs 15W50 recommended by Andrew ( Thanks) arrived today and was promptly changed and tested with some more improvements, still needs a road test to see what happens above 100 but the better oil is worth it IMO.

With a 22mm pump this was 2.5 bar
30mm o ringed pump and the 15W50 nearly 3.5 bar so nearly 1 bar improvement
P1100268 15W50 80 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

With a 22mm pump this was 1.5 bar
30mm o ringed pump and the 15W50 nearly 2.5 bar so nearly 1 bar improvement
P1100270 15W50 100 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

With a 22mm pump this was 0.5 bar
30mm o ringed pump and the 15W50 1 bar so 0.5 bar improvement
P1100271 15W50 100 idle by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

origional measurements with 22mm pump here
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8212502" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Looking good - what oil were you using before 10W40 ?

937carrera wrote:Looking good - what oil were you using before 10W40 ?

15W40 tripple QX from ECP

your 15W60 suggestion would likely give even better results but it's a bit pricey for regular oil changes.

OK, so cold start the same, hot running better pressure.

I still use mineral 20W50 in my 412 (type 4 engine, Aircooled but with proper, if small, engine oil cooler)

937carrera wrote:OK, so cold start the same, hot running better pressure.

I still use mineral 20W50 in my 412 (type 4 engine, Aircooled but with proper, if small, engine oil cooler)

yep cold start is good always has been about 4 bar so I don't think I wan't 20W50 becuse it will be thicker when cold and thats not good as far as I know.

Good results with the 15w50 there, Paul. It's nice to see the practical test reinforce the theory! Top work, thanks for sharing.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

ajsimmo wrote:Good results with the 15w50 there, Paul. It's nice to see the practical test reinforce the theory! Top work, thanks for sharing.

Yep, some good datapoints for everyone

Road test today and presure has remained as measured except a tiny bit lower when stinking hot.

I have decided to fit an oil temp gauge the same as my tin top to get an idea of temperatures and to be able to ease off when it's getting stinking hot, I'm thinking of my French road trip in summer.

Started with the same mod to the breather tower with an old broken filer tube neck

how to make it here..
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 0#p8209161" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


P1100339 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100340 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

then a sensor in a plate where the filler tube was

P1100341 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100346 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

oil back, can you believe I opened the flap looking for the filler tube and it literally took seconds for the penny to drop

P1100343 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

these are TIM pods I like them , not cheap
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tim-52mm-Gau ... Sw8oFXyDS2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

P1100347 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

then I decided to wire up the air fuel gauge this is my old steel pipe with boss from the tintop which I recycled on to the poptop

will be nice to see how the Digijet compares with carb ( have same air fuel gauge on tintop)

P1100352 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1100355 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr