WBXlog

[itchyfeet]

Next I fixed the badly ( by me) fitted Helicoil in the sump plug hole, It was a 1.5D which is far too long and stops the last bit of oil ( and any debris) draining properly.
It's also hard to snap the tang off a coil that protrudes inside although the 1.5 did snap off.
Tang snaps off by using pliers and turning it anti clockwise, if the helicoil is through too far it is not supported and often won't snap.

Hard to measure the exact depth also from outside but with the case split easy.

P1050431 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

This is a 1D M14x1.5 Helicoil (1D 1x Diameter in length) easy to think it's the right length but it expands as it's threaded in and as you can see still too long. easy to remove with the case split just wind in inside.

P1050432 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050434 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I cut one turn off the helicoil by inserting a washer, and using a dremmel cutting disc. The cut is clean enough to use without any deburring.

P1050437 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050440 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

tang snapped off easily with pliers

P1050442 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr


P1050444 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Now the case and crank are ready I want to fit the cam and crank to see if the cam gear is the right size.

First I need to fit the cam bearings , these are Mahle Bearings from Brickwerks ( double thrust) and you can see they have locating lugs where the old VW bearings didn't, one side of the case has the matching slot but the other side does not.

P1050445 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050446 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050447 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
P1050448 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

no choice other than to file off the lug from the bearing

P1050450 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Half the bearings installed with half the centre main bearing that is split.

P1050458 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Next crank drops in but bearings need to be aligned in their correct positions so the locating lugs align with the notches in the case and the pin in the case into the small bearing at pulley end.

P1050459 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Cam fits easily and it's easy to align the dot on the cam with the two dots on the crank gear.

The old cam fits perfectly, almost no backlash but it's too far gone to replace, the gear is stamped 0 for Zero size.

P1050466 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050465 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

The new cam from VW Heratige sold as a 025109021C ( the 21 is a Zero gear cam) does not fit, it has over 0.05mm backlash, it's not stamped with a number , need to give them a call Monday.
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/type25- ... ed-new-vw/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

P1050462 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

This is a -1 Cam gear and cam from another engine it's better than the VWHeratige cam ( 0.05 feeler gauge will not fit) suggesting the VW H cam is a -2 or smaller.

P1050463 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

I doubt VWH can do anything about it other than a refund so I have the option of swapping the gears, the cam in the pic above has already been test removed and bolted on with M7 because I suspected this would happen.

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8142886" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[itchyfeet]

Just had a quick measure up of the cam lobes, you can see the new cam has a chamfer all the way around but the old cam it's missing at the top.
Measuring up there is about 1mm missing from the old cam meaning the lift is 1mm less ( down to 6mm from 7mm) which can't have helped this to breathe.

P1050475 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Also measured up old big end bearings and they are around 0.1mm or more bigger than crank, this has to be a cause of oil pressure loss, they should fall slowly by their own weight which they won't with this much wear.

P1050470 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

I spoke to VW Heritage yesterday about the Cam with the undersize gear, they told me they took what VW supplied in good faith but had heard there may have been some -2 in there which is what I have.

They said it's OK to fit but it just means the tappets will be a bit noisier...errr no thanks it's out of spec, they offered a refund, err..no thanks there are no more cams.

They told me they checked and there are no more VW DG cams available but I'm not sure, I asked them to check all part numbers because I looked up all the gear sizes and there are 11 of which classic list 9 so perhaps there is some stock of unusual size gears, perhaps wishful thinking.

If there are no more then hopefully somebody will start making reproductions, not aware of any myself?

Numbers are
025109015C -3
025109017C -2
025109019C -1 ( not listed)
025109021C 0 ( not listed)
025109023 +1
025109025 +2
025109027 +3
025109029 +4
025109031 +5
025109033 +6
025109035 +7

So rolled up my sleeves and drilled out the rivets from my old cam and my new cam, then punched them out. Cam was wrapped in a rag so that it didn't get scratched.

I also was thinking of having a go at riveting my self so ordered some rivets, flat head are hard to find so ordered round head solid steel rivets 6mmx20mm
The rivet is 14mm long when fitted so I will have to cut down, it's 13mm long finished with an 7mm diameter x 2mm formed head so I will make some punch tools and test this.


20160919_122516 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

20160919_123532 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

20160919_124929 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Refitted cam tonight with M6 temporary screws and nuts and as expected backlash is fine.

Interesting to note the mark on the gear and crank is not TDC ( just visible by stud between TDC and BDC)

Cam rotates anticlockwise one turn per four strokes ( 2 clockwise turns of crank)

No 1 is the second big end journal from the flywheel as shown and is the cylinder in the half of the case missing, so tappets are on the back of cams ( valves closed) at this point.

Another interesting point is a flat four camshaft only has four cams, each pair of cams operates two opposing cylinders, most four cylinder engines have 8 cams per camshaft. This means each cam works twice as hard operating two valves per cycle and why they wear twice as much!

P1050574 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Rivets arrived today.

I made some punch tools up at work, the head support is a 10mm hole drilled ( standard drill 120 degrees) into a bar that's turned down to sit in a small vice.

The punch tool is an 8mm flat bottom hole (using a slot drill just to replicate the VW profile) , 2mm deep in a longer bar so I can hold it ( I will try a standard drilled hole)

I'm lucky to have access to a lathe but I think you could buy some 1/2 mild steel rod, cut it off and just drill holes

The cam is bolted on with three M6 to hold it tight ( this is an old cam to test)

I tried different lengths but the 6mm diameter rivets cut to 16mm long was best

P1050595 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
rivet heated with a blow torch to cherry red

P1050605 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
pick it up with long nose pliers, stick in in the hole, onto the support and bash it.

P1050604 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

The finished riveting looks good but just shy of the 7mm diameter of a VW cam rivet so I will try a standard 120 degree drilled punch ( which will give a domed formed head but hopefully larger diameter). I would happily fit this if that doesn't improve the formed head.

P1050607 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050608 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Need to move on to pistons, barrels and con rods.

Started measuring up the pistons and barrels, easy to measure together so telescopic bore gauges are square to barrel and micrometer is square too. Seperate them and its very hard to get consistant measurements.
Never measure once, measure many times to get confidence that it's right.

15mm from end of skirt and top of barrel according to Bentley.

P1050480 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050488 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050490 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

1 93.86 piston 94.04 barrel 0.18 difference
2 93.96 piston 94.06 barrel 0.10 difference
3 93.91 piston 94.05 barrel 0.14 difference
4 93.99 piston 94.06 barrel 0.07 difference

new is 0.03 to 0.06 difference
wear limit 0.2 difference

Just within spec, 1& 3 pistons quite worn ( 93.98 or 93.99 std) but there is alot more to check....

[300CE]

Marvellous work there Paul!

[itchyfeet]

Marvellous work there Paul!

Thanks Justin

Trying to do it to the best of my ability now I have time.
Some of this I have not done before, some I have but not on this type of engine, some I have done many times.
Before I had no spare engine to fit and so I was against the clock, never get good results if you have limited time.

[itchyfeet]

Piston 1 has a ding on the skirt, probably why it's worn.

P1050476 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

barrel 2 has damage to the top water jacket sealing ring groove.

P1050499 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

barrel 3 has a bit of damage to the sealing ring groove too and is pitted from water ingress from the broken head 3 years ago.

P1050504 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Piston 2 is not a Mahle origional its Kolbenschmidt so I will weigh them all to see if they are the same weight group.


I suspect most engine reconditioners would just replace this lot, the ding in piston 1 was not done by me so was replaced by a reconditioner like that.

Hopefully I have some other second hand parts that are better.

[itchyfeet]

cleaned the carbon off the barrels so rings would slide past easily, then removed pistons.
most of the ring gaps were not 180 degrees appart, maybe they move over the years, maybe they were never right.

P1050506 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

P1050509 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

removed rings with expander ( yes I know you can do it by hand but they are sharp)

P1050521 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

quick clean of pistons, the carbon is hard as nails, must be the lpg, not like a petrol fueled engine.

weighed them, look like piston 4 is from a different weight group.

P1050523 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

Luckily I have two other DG engines to rob pistons from.

One is an early case given to me by DoubleOseven and with it a trug of bits. in the trug with some ruined barrels ( left in the rain) were the pistons, they nearly all had damage but on unimportamt edges and small enough to remove.
Three of four are good and almost bang on the original size, must have been a low mileage engine, the fourth a different weight group. ( Thanks Martin I do plan to rebuild this case when I have enough parts)

The other engine was an early one I bought cheap for spares but is almost totally ruined. Some fool replaced faulty water jacket seals but nothing else, I kid you not no other seal was replaced, and the water jacket seals didn't even have dirko on them, needless to say it didn't drive far but the damage done is severe, coolant getting into the combustion chamber has eaten away the aluminium between the valves and ruined all but one piston and barrel, steam errosion or cavitation errosion I think is what's happened
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This ruined engine will be turned into something special that I have always wanted to do

Anyway one is all I need to complete a set ( all the same weight group) and again bang on origional size ( it's stamped on piston crown)

I do still have to check the piston ring groove clearances

P1050593 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

I have a set of aftermarket used barrels I got off ebay some time ago with some DJ pistons.
It was too cheap to be true and they turned out to be MV pistons, always a gamble but these barrels look OK and I got a patrial refund.

I measured up they are nearly new, 94.01 /94.02 there is some printing on them too which implies they are not very old, cast in VW logo missing showing they are aftermarket.

I think I will swap all four and keep the old ones as spares, just one looks like it may have had a gasket leak and some errosion above rings, honing will show that up.


P1050513 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr


P1050594 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[itchyfeet]

I previously measured little end bearings on con rods,
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 5#p8158242" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
They are all 0.02 over the pin diameter on the power axis, a good rule I read is if the pin will drop under gravity when oiled it's too loose, these all do.

P1050584 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Stretch bolts all need replacing too which are obsolete so standard bolts need fitting.

I bought some little end bearings, cheap enough but they are semi finished so need reaming, I want to try before giving in and fitting new rods.

I have read a straight flute reamer or an adjustable reamer will snag on the bearing because they are split so you really need a spiral flute reamer, the semi finished size looks to me like you may need two steps of reamer because the are about 0.5mm undersize.

I made a tool to remove and replace these bearings and it works well but I have yet to learn how to ream these well. If it fails I will just replace the rods.

20160919_152342 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

20160919_152422 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

20160919_152455 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

20160919_152733 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr