WBXlog

Big lumps of metals and spanners. Including servicing and fluids.

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Re: WBXlog

Postby CovKid » 06 Sep 2016, 05:45

To be honest, this is the only way you'll get a proper rebuild at low cost. Just about all T3 replacement engines offered commercially are a compromise and some are downright bodges. It makes longevity a lottery. That said, most just don't want to pay the cost of new parts on top of the labour which is why corners get cut in order to provide engines buyers can afford. A top quality rebuild takes time, money, patience, and attention to detail.
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 06 Sep 2016, 19:06

Thanks for the replies :D

Miss Itchy's lupo EGR valve spat it's dummy out so that's kept me busy tonight but got a little done.

cam out and the thrust bearing is shot, that's where the bearing material has come from

ImageP1050298 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050299 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

because I'm working on one side and because I think it's easier to remove con rod nuts when crank is in the case, I lifted crank out, swung the con rods 3& 4 over and replaced the crank.

photographed the position of the con rods first ( to replace same way) then released the nuts while holding crank in place to stop it lifting, 2 foot breaker bar makes it easy.
All bearings looked the same, quite worn but the crank looks fine at first glance, measure up later.

ImageP1050301 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050302 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050304 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050305 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

:D
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 06 Sep 2016, 20:15

Another thing I just remembered, the pic above shows these are stretch bolts in the con rods ( late DG and DJ had them) will need replacing with standard bolts, stretch type are not reusable ( although I'm sure people do) and obsolete

I have some con rods from an early DG may nick the standard bolts from there
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/1131054 ... -in-m9-66/
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 10 Sep 2016, 18:03

So little time so much to do, Lupo back on the road now so on with the engine.

Popped the crank out to measure, interesting how clean this engine is inside, not black like many, that's 10,000 litres of LPG being burnt :D

ImageP1050330 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

easiest to bolt the crank to the flywheel to measure, you can than easily rotate to measure in different places

ImageP1050326 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

every thing is bob on spec.

ImageP1050323 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

two bearings still to measure but woodruff key and cam gear needs removing to do this, the gear looks scuffed, probably because the bearing is shot there is too much play, I have another I could fit.

ImageP1050324 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 13 Sep 2016, 19:22

A bit more done tonight, as things are removed I marked them all flywheel side with a marker pen so I have a reference later.

Woodruff key tapped out gently with a hammer and screwdriver, oil thrust ring off and bearing 4 will come off, measures up good, note the dirt build up where the groove in the bearing is, I'm tempted to leave it rather than risk damaging the surface.

ImageP1050342 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050344 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Circlip off using special pliers ( listed post2)

ImageP1050346 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Gear puller in place ( listed post 2) with a large adjustable to hold it all steady and a 2 foot breaker bar to turn the puller.
Some gently applied heat to help things move and it came off nicely, no swarf from the brass distributor gear and no major scratches to shaft.

ImageP1050347 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050348 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050349 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

bearing 3 measures up good too, none of the journals are under all at the top ( standard) size of the range so need bearings 025198461A.
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=155330

ImageP1050350 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

tickled the cam bearings out being careful not to damage the case

ImageP1050352 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

pushed the two halves of bearing 2 out

ImageP1050354 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Brickwerks order placed for the first batch of bits I need.

:D
Last edited by itchyfeet on 05 Jul 2017, 17:06, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 14 Sep 2016, 17:55

Started the internal clean up tonight
Over a tray again with Paraffin to remove any visible swarf and dirt.

I'm aiming to get nothing inside an oil way, these will be blown through later.

ImageP1050355 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

oil strainer looked Ok at first glance but has a lot of swarf deep inside.
Removed retaining bolt and it's hard to remove without tapping out with a hammer and wood.

ImageP1050357 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050359 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

back flushed with paraffin
my guess is a lot of this was from the pervious rebuild because it's too much for the one half a cam bearing that's gone.

ImageP1050360 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 15 Sep 2016, 17:57

Cleaned the other half of the case tonight, so that's 1 hour each side.

I'm not painting it so the inside was what I was concentrating on but dirt left after the initial clean down was also removed from outside so it can't get inside later.

Meticulously removing dirt and debris and not relocating it was my aim, moving the case around means that run off of paraffin is straight out into the tray and never back inside, avoiding anything going into the oil ways. Toothbrush and paintbrush, no wire brushes.

Sprayed down with carb cleaner and then sprayed into the oil ways ( inc crank) with carb cleaner. This lot is going to work with me tomorrow to be blown out with an airline.



ImageP1050365 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXlog

Postby hightop ratty » 16 Sep 2016, 08:46

Going to be keeping a very close eye on this post (blew my 2.1 petrol on way to Vanfest) - looking at all my options, but want to do a proper job (do properly 1st, saves money & time).
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 16 Sep 2016, 15:44

blew out the oil ways with an airline today ( rubbish pics on a phone) also did the oil strainer.

Image20160916_105028 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Image20160916_105513 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 16 Sep 2016, 15:53

Measured up the Con rod little end bush with a telescopic bore gauge and measured Gudgeon pins.

I can't find anything in Bentley about tolerance for this but a post on the Samba says that for air cooled the spec is (.0004-.0008") or 0.01-0.02mm
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=396794

interesting info here too.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... c&start=20

So I have nearly 0.02mm in the axis of compression/power I can feel some movement in this axis, within limits but I have decided not to put these back, I'm going to treat it to a new set of rods and keep these for spares.

I have bought some semi finished bushes for £8 but a machine reamer is another 30 quid and I have never done it before so a job for another rebuild.

ImageP1050381 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050383 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050384 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050385 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 16 Sep 2016, 16:11

These are Kolbenschmidt 87 412 601 Main bearings from Brickwerk
I thought I would compare with the old bearings and there is no measureable wear on the inside, clearance from the crank is about 0.1mm on all, it surprised me to see this much.

I have read before that main bearings last very well.

ImageP1050373 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050375 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050376 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 16 Sep 2016, 16:21

Next to reassemble cam gear and distributor drive gear, checked old bearings and the flywheel end markings I made, also checked back to the photos I took so I didn't get it wrong.

oiled bearing and fitted, also oiled shaft where gears are going.

I heated the gears in a small electric oven I bought for a test at work ( seeing what happens to some electronics at 130 degC!!) so I borrowed it to heat the gears, Gas oven would have done.

The tube to encourage them on needs to be 45mm inside to clear the woodruff key, this is a 42mm scaffold fitting I removed any sharp galv inside then cleaned it.

ImageP1050398 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

first gear went on easy chamfer first

ImageP1050399 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

then the spacer

ImageP1050400 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

second gear just dropped on but seconds later it would not move

ImageP1050401 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

circlip back on
ImageP1050402 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Last edited by itchyfeet on 05 Jul 2017, 17:17, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 16 Sep 2016, 16:52

The 6'x8' shed where this is happening :D

ImageP1050389 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 17 Sep 2016, 13:01

Finished off the crank this morning
Small bearing on, with oil, oil thrust washer and woodruff key on.
ImageP1050451 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

next just remove flywheel ( the sort of comment you get in Haynes) :D
easier said then done I used a puller with a bolt that has a small centre drilling to keep the puller located.

ImageP1050454 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Flywheel end thrust washer on then bearing on with oil again, shows you can't rely on things like writing to determine the direction.
I'm not changing spigot bearing in end of crank ( for gearbox input shaft) because it's just a couple of years old.

ImageP1050457 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Last edited by itchyfeet on 05 Jul 2017, 17:19, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WBXlog

Postby itchyfeet » 17 Sep 2016, 13:24

Next I finished off the case clean, it's boring so I wanted to break it up with assembling the crank.

You need a lot of clean rags to do this, don't be temped to keep reusing rags, you can buy cleaning rags by the kilo on ebay, 10Kg is around £15 delivered, these are often offcuts from the clothing industry.

The Barrel lower seal surfaces need cleaning, this took me nearly an hour a side, you could probably put it back with a quick clean and it would work but for sure the seals would not have a long life.

I used a piece of stiff plastic in the case ( to hold the rags in place) and then clean rags to stop anything going down, started with 600 wet and dry with paraffin, then finished off with 1200 wet and dry.

ImageP1050412 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050414 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

This looks like original casting flaws, there are a few on this barrel sealing surface, my guess is they were deemed acceptable because they don't come in any further that the machined holes.

Hard to measure so I used this plastic sheet, it's 3mm thick and shows the seal sits inside this flaw/damage

ImageP1050416 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050417 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

ImageP1050469 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

finished
ImageP1050425 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

removed rags downwards and flushed out with carb cleaner
ImageP1050427 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

Also cleaned up the crankcase halves mating surfaces with 600 grit wet and dry and paraffin, rotating the case so any dribbles always flow out.
Studs were cleaned up by running nuts down, no wire brushes.

ImageP1050430 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr
Last edited by itchyfeet on 05 Jul 2017, 17:23, edited 1 time in total.
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