Happy days

[meggles]

NOT!!! Finally got the new push rod fitted. Set everything up as per the good old Haynes. Result? No compression. Had a quick check of the Haynes and all done as per.... Buggar. Never mind, might get another day off soon!

[itchyfeet]

leave it a couple of hours and you will have compression I bet.
Tappets once preloaded need to be left to bleed down until the valve closes.

[meggles]

leave it a couple of hours and you will have compression I bet.
Tappets once preloaded need to be left to bleed down until the valve closes.

That's what I'm hoping mate. Everything crossed. I'm not 100% certain about this engine anyway so if it needs replacing it won't be too much of a pain. Might even go the diesel route. Either that or a good replacement DG (if this one is stuffed) and LPG conversion.

[itchyfeet]

Did the same Sunday, forgot and tried to start straight after setting preload, no comp, waited half an hour and it started on two cylinders, waited a bit longer and it started, rough for a bit then OK.

[meggles]

It's been 3 hours now and still no compression. I'll have a look over everything next time I get a day off. Looking like Saturday if I'm lucky!!

[itchyfeet]

What Haynes does not say is which way to rotate crank, if you want to do them in the order Haynes states i.e 1432 you need to rotate crank clockwise, you see rotor arm move anti clockwise for each 1/2 turn aligning with the relevant plug lead.

Was Rotor arm pointing at no.1 cylinder spark plug lead when you started on no 1 cylinder?

[meggles]

Pointing to notch on edge of distributor. Haynes also does not make it clear which is no ! cylinder!!!

[Mocki]

iirc haynes also tell you to set the rocker adjustment too many turns in.... double check!!

[meggles]

iirc haynes also tell you to set the rocker adjustment too many turns in.... double check!!

It states 2 turns in from initial contact.

[Mocki]

which , IIRC is too many, which will leave the valves not fully closed ...... im sure 1+1/4 turns is correct??? but check on that , dont take my fuzzy memory as gospel

[Mocki]

its also common that the push rod doesnt "seat" into the "dimple" correctly and could be sitting on the edge and there for keeping the valve open

[itchyfeet]

iirc haynes also tell you to set the rocker adjustment too many turns in.... double check!!

It states 2 turns in from initial contact.

2 turns is fine in my opinion it's what I do and never had a problem.

page 15.9 in VW workshop manual says tow turns

2.1 workshop manual
http://syncrosport.com/info/manual/VW_T ... hanics.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[bigherb]

Yep two turns is correct. I spin the engine over with the spark plugs removed a few times to start the lifters adjusting themselves then start the engine up it runs rough for a few seconds then settles down.

[itchyfeet]

It's Ratwell that suggests 2 turns is too much and suggests 1.5

I prefer to stick with VW spec, take your choice.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Bentley (both Bus and Vanagon versions) say the adjustment should be two clockwise turns after the valve adjusting screw makes contact with the valve stem but some folks think the adjustment should be 1/2 turn. If the lifter was dry and you were to preload the lifter 1/2 turn, that's about 0.015" (0.38mm) movement of the piston inside while 1-2 turns would be 0.030" - 0.060" (0.76mm - 1.52mm). I will explain how much to adjust the lifters later...

If you only adjust them by 0.5 turns the lifter won't compress enough and you'll upset the rocker geometry accelerating valve train wear. In practice what happens when you don't preload the lifter enough is it will take too much time to pressurize and you won't get enough valve lift. This will cause the engine to labor and sound noisy. The noise is often heard coming from the camshaft (center of the engine).

Two turns of the 10mm valve adjusting screw with 1mm threads will preload the lifter ~1.5mm (remember the 1:1.3 rocker ratio). This is about half the distance that the piston inside the lifter can travel. If you use too little preload you will stress the lock ring that holds the lifter together when the lifter socket maks contact with it. If you use too much preload, the plunger may bottom out at first, then as the lifter pumps up to compensate the valve may not close properly and compression, performance and valve life will suffer.

How about 1.5 turns instead of 2? In practice, this seems to be as acceptable as the factory recommendation and a feel good insurance against the ills that other people have experienced over the years following the factory recommendation. In my experience, 1.5 turns of adjustment after the engine has run for many miles remains around 1.5 turns. Sometimes the adjustment is 1/8 of a turn more or less but you will be in the ball park and the engine will continue to run properly thanks to the flexibility of the design. The fact that the setting can exceed the initial adjustment supports the idea that 1.5 turns is better than 2.0 turns.

[itchyfeet]

Just remembered Meggles, you said this engine has not run for ages, how long did you run it before you noticed oil pouring out?

Mine having not run for years had spongy tappets, not possible to set preload correctly so I did an approx setting, ran it until hot then once they were pumped up did the correct preload.

If it still won't start worth a try, approx setting was one thread showing on tappet screw.