WBX
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Re: WBX
Yes, standard oil cooler. I was worried that I might need a bigger one, but I had a very strong steer on here that it wasn't needed - might even do more harm as it would heat the oil up more. I'm grateful for that steer, and the proof that it wasn't needed, as far as I'm concerned, is my nice high oil pressure.
The pipe I used is this one I think - half inch internal diameter, 17mm external diameter. Possibly overkill, but it's good strong stuff. Very difficult to route neatly, and absolutely no twist to it - definitely needs a joint in the middle somewhere if it's got 90 degree bends at each end, as the middle joint is the only way to get the orientation of the bends right at each end.
I say "I think" because I can't remember for sure - I looked back over the part of my engine build thread where I discussed this (here), and even then I couldn't remember - had to deduce from the external diameter.
The pipe I used is this one I think - half inch internal diameter, 17mm external diameter. Possibly overkill, but it's good strong stuff. Very difficult to route neatly, and absolutely no twist to it - definitely needs a joint in the middle somewhere if it's got 90 degree bends at each end, as the middle joint is the only way to get the orientation of the bends right at each end.
I say "I think" because I can't remember for sure - I looked back over the part of my engine build thread where I discussed this (here), and even then I couldn't remember - had to deduce from the external diameter.
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Re: WBX
CJH wrote: The pipe I used is this one I think - half inch internal diameter, 17mm external diameter.
Interesting, I'm used to seeing larger than that, 15-17mm ID, probably to avoid pressure drop over a long run, but 1/2" obviously works well enough. Empirical engineering
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Re: WBX
Yeah I got lucky - that hose was too expensive to do twice. I don't really know how to size the pipe properly by other means - my fluid mechanics isn't up to it - but a few things that spring to mind:
- Oil at 80 degrees is pretty runny
- The greater resistance in this part of the oil circuit is most likely the matrix itself
- The pressure required to push the oil through the engine oilways will be higher still
So gut feeling says that a nice smooth straight pipe with half inch ID isn't going to be much of a bottleneck.
- Oil at 80 degrees is pretty runny
- The greater resistance in this part of the oil circuit is most likely the matrix itself
- The pressure required to push the oil through the engine oilways will be higher still
So gut feeling says that a nice smooth straight pipe with half inch ID isn't going to be much of a bottleneck.
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Re: WBX
Thanks for that, time to move the cooler before the grill goes back on, and good tip re middle joint
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Re: WBX
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/basic ... rettyPhoto" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This is Chris Corkins' Vanistan cooler. There's a standard one for 2wd, and an electric fan version for Syncro. Pricey if buying from over the pond, (and may get pricier with Trump Tax), but you get the idea.
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This is Chris Corkins' Vanistan cooler. There's a standard one for 2wd, and an electric fan version for Syncro. Pricey if buying from over the pond, (and may get pricier with Trump Tax), but you get the idea.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
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WBX Rebuilds & Upgrades from the beautiful Isle of Arran
WBX Rebuilds & Upgrades from the beautiful Isle of Arran
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Re: WBX
^^^ Now ‘that’ looks nice.
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Re: WBX
Just an observation about the airflow. The only time I ever see my needles creeping up is when I'm sitting in traffic on a hot day. Then it's nice to have the radiator fan to cool both radiators, and the needles soon drop back to their nominal positions. I think Silverbullet's kit for his 2.5 WBX sits in the side vent recess in the engine bay, and has a thermostatic fan for just such a situation.
About a litre I think. I've only done one oil change since fitting it, and I didn't bother trying to drain the cooler, so the change volume was the same as normal. I do have the option to separate the inline unions (which are in the engine bay) but I doubt I'll do that for fear of introducing a leak. I often use a can of Lidl oil as a flush when I do an oil change, but even without that I think I'd be ok with a bit of old oil in with the new because the old oil is still in reasonable condition having never been overheated
itchyfeet wrote:How much extra oil does this take and how do you ever get the old oil out is there a drain point?
About a litre I think. I've only done one oil change since fitting it, and I didn't bother trying to drain the cooler, so the change volume was the same as normal. I do have the option to separate the inline unions (which are in the engine bay) but I doubt I'll do that for fear of introducing a leak. I often use a can of Lidl oil as a flush when I do an oil change, but even without that I think I'd be ok with a bit of old oil in with the new because the old oil is still in reasonable condition having never been overheated
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Re: WBX
The intrepidoverland company suggest the oil level on your dipstick should be between the notches, not at the higher one. Never heard that before?
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Re: WBX
Absolutely, only required if you’re keeping it above 65mphitchyfeet wrote:exactly my point its only at speed you need them then you have air flow at rear.
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Re: WBX
Yeah, me too; when I get bored and want to break my van because it’s being too reliable. It been A1 for two years now...very dull.
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Re: WBX
DoubleOSeven wrote:The intrepidoverland company suggest the oil level on your dipstick should be between the notches, not at the higher one. Never heard that before?
If I top mine up to the top notch it drops quite quicly to the mid point and stays there for ages.
I have heard it mentioned somewhere before right enough.
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