1.9 water-cooled engine removal hints

[MartinR]

Took an engine out of mine last weekend, and was pretty extreme in taking things off as there is another engine going in.
Before starting I labelled as many connections as I could either with tape or tippex and took lots of photos.
Made notes as I went ‘cause I don’t do this very often these days and this should give me an idea of re-install order!
By the way mine is '86 - late thermo type dg.

1. Drive on to ramps and chock wheels.
2. DISCONNECT BOTH BATTERIES
3. Drain oil and then replace sump plug and empty oil filter.
4. Remove air filter box/ carb pan/ vac pipes/ air in pipe.
5. Loom to carb – split cables AA BB CC (my labels – manifold htr, carb htr, choke) and disconnect fuel cut off valve.
6. Disconnect throttle cable (put clip in safe box)
7. Disconnect vac advance from carb (at distributor)
8. Disconnect fuel return.
9. Disconnect brake vacuum pipe from Manifold.
10. Remove inlet manifold water pipe.
11. Remove carb water pipe
12. Disconnect fuel pipe to carb at fuel pump.
13. Remove 4 inlet manifold bolts and lift off manifold complete with carb.
14. Remove cardboard air pipes (inlet – exhaust – inlet)
15. Remove offside head water supply.
16. Disconnect and remove alternator.
17. Remove fan belt.
18. Remove oil breather tower.
19. Remove fuel pump.
20. Unplug king lead to coil
21. Disconnect main rad water pipe from thermo housing (drains most of water!)
22. Remove heater water pipe from pump to thermostat housing metal pipe (behind forward engine space bulkhead).
23. Remove heater water pipe from thermostat housing.
24. Disconnect bleeding ring to nearside head.
25. Disconnect main pipe between water pump and thermo housing at water pump. Diconnect rubber pipe between main pipe and thermo housing at thermo housing – lift out pipe (drains most of rest of water).
26. Disconnect bleed ring to thermo housing pipe
27. Disconnect offside head to bleed ring pipe.
28. Remove and label side and front thermoplug from thermo housing (blue side, black front). Put clips safe.
29. Disconnect Dizzy to loom plug and tuck in safe. Leave dizzy in place – will ensure drive shaft stays in correct orientation.
30. Disconnect header tank from top-up tank and bleed ring – remove header tank.
31. Remove nearside tinware.
32. Remove offside tinware.
33. Remove rear exhaust box complete with pipe to exhaust knuckle (cut bolts with grinder in my case)
34. Remove top up tank.
35. Remove exhaust box heat shield.
36. Remove oil filler tube (If I’d seen Ghost’s post I’d have removed this about here – engine was dangling when I noticed it!)
37. Loosen clip on dipstick and rotate out of harms way.
38. Rig shackles on lifting points either end of engine – run strop between.
39. Rig engine crane, hook onto strop and take strain.
40. Remove bolts holding engine cross mount to chassis (shear off in my case).
41. Put gear in 4th – appears to me this will give little play at gearbox without straining linkage.
42. Ease down a few centimetres.
43. Put jack/stand/whatever to support gearbox.
44. Remove starter lower nut.
45. Remove engine to bell housing throughbolt to release starter motor.
46. Lift off starter motor and put on top of gearbox.
47. Remove other three bell housing to engine bolts (one more top, two underneath)
48. Pull engine back off gearbox. Will take some wriggling but be careful of levering gaps open – castings aren’t bullet proof. Don’t have to take all this stuff off but taking all this stuff off gives ample room to withdraw engine before lowering much.
49. Check nothing connected between engine and anything else!
50. Lower engine and withdraw from under van. I found that I was able to put boards across the crane legs, lower the engine on to them and still have clearance to withdraw the engine with the dizzy still in place using the crane as a trolley.

This worked for me - no doubt others will point out the errors of my ways.
Good luck!

Regards
Martin

[kevtherev]

Good lord...
Mr Porche would turn in his grave.

[ghost123uk]

Flippin heck Martin, did you write all that

Mind you, you missed out item 51 = Sit down and have a mug of tea.

[silverbullet]

FWIW, I wouldnt sling a any single carb wbx by the inlet manifold.
They can give sealing problems anyway, due to age-related distortion (the casting relaxes) so use the integral lifting eyes on the crankcase. Two old 10mm carabiners and a 1200mm sling will do just fine.

Been there, had the air leaks... (always use new inlet gaskets!)

[doenut82]

Thanks very much guys for hints and tips , I'm going to print it all out so I can quick reference it when I'm doing it the weekend.
You've all been really helpful.
Thanks again, Adam.

[MartinR]

Typing that lot gave me an excuse to sit down and have several item 51s without being glowered at by the “Boss” for not getting on with putting the bl***y thing back together again.

Oh – and loosing the tatty and very grubby bits of paper the list is on!

Know what I’m doing this weekend!

Martin

[123-jn]

Take the manifold off and use the two eyes provided in the case castings top front and back either side of the join. Use D shackles

[doenut82]

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[doenut82]

Took me the day but finally did it .

[kevtherev]

Well done lad
easy huh?

why is the water pump off?

[doenut82]

Because the stud that broke off in the head is right behind the thermostat, it's just easier to get to without it there.

[itchyfeet]

Well done another success with the fence post method, I can't claim it as my idea but I have used it before with no problems. Interesting you used two in that direction, I used one in the other direction and another for the gearbox. I guess your wardrobe means they have to be that way.

You want to get some clean rags in all those holes including carb, stray washers and screws in some on them could be terminal.

[doenut82]

Engine all done and ready to be refitted , bring on the weekend. Got new stainless steel water pipes to fit too.

[doenut82]

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[ceetee25]

I have just dropped my 2.1 with engine hoist on to a home made wood trolley .Mine has aircon and power steering so these pumps had to be disconned and suspended before the other bits were disconnected. Other than that fairly straight forward. The van is up on axle stands but had to raise the back left side an extra 10 cms so I could take it out the side back left (looking forwards) rather than out at the back as the bodywork is lower at the back which obstructed the 'higher bits' left on the engine. Take off ALL the tin ware - back and two sides. I then lifted it on to a table with the hoist which is where it is. Pain in the a*** is 3 barrels were absolutely stuck to the heads so came out with them !!!!
Now I have to do the gudgeon pin removal pantomime!!