T25 1.9 petrol waterboxer head stud removal

[Daveybj]

Hi,

I have had a head stud snap on my T25 waterboxer. I have got the head off and everything else looks fine. I have a new set of head studs to go in but am struggling to get the old ones out. At the moment it's just the whole ones I'm working on. I know the broken one is a whole other world of pain!

I have wd40'd them and left it a while. I've tried using two nuts, tightening them together and then turning the one nearest the engine. Theoretically this should work but I'm not getting any joy.

Just wondering if anyone had any hints or tips as to how to do this. I don't own any kind of welding equipment and the block is still in situ so I'm going to struggle to take it anywhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Dave.

[DoubleOSeven]

Heat is your friend. Get yourself a blow torch off Amazon and after heating, your two nut method or grips will work

[DoubleOSeven]

Camping Gaz THP3000PZ High Power Auto Gas Torch with Gas https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002HMQDYG/ ... pwbWKCE8MG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Dazco]

If you have stripped it so far , would it not be easier to remove the engine entirely ?
Forget wd 40, use plusgas

[kevtherev]

Yes WD 40 is a water dispersant!

[kevtherev]

I watched this done once
The studs were cut down to lessen the twist and a stud extractor on a windy gun used with heat applied to the case

[lokisdad]

I had this problem on mine. I discovered one sheared off head stud and one rusted away to about half thickness that would have snapped as soon as it was tightened. I tried everything - plus gas, heat, welding a nut on, air impact tool-but eventually had to take it to an engineering firm. One drilled out OK the other caused real problems and was eventually drilled oversize and helicoiled. Cost me £120. I hope yours is not such a problem.
Harvey

[123-jn]

HEAT is the Key, You need to prepare the two nuts locked together or a stud extractor then using a hot torch (I did mine with a propane torch) keep heating the area around the base of the stud until it is smoking hot keep dribbling some plus gas around the base. Now it's smoking hot do not take the heat of it but now apply turning force to the stud with an 18 inch bar. The stud will flex but just gradually apply more force all the time keeping the heat on. This is a judgement call but what usually happens is that all of a sudden it will go bang and turn a fraction, Lots of plus gas take the heat off and get it undone. (Sometimes instead the stud snaps but if you get it hot enough it will undo.)
Really smoking hot I have never needed to go to cherry red yet but you can without melting the alloy.

[Daveybj]

Thanks for all the input folks. I'm having another crack at it this weekend. Will let you know how it goes!

[colinthefox]

I agree with everything said so far, but one little extra tip is to cut the stud end square, and when you've given it as much twisting force as you dare, and you're afraid it will snap if you twist any harder, give the end a sharp tap with a not-too-big hammer. The shock might well deliver that fraction of a turn that 123jn refers to. It worked for me.

[silverbullet]

You need a decent size propane lamp with a big nozzle, we have an ancient Sievert (swedish) that does for all shop heating jobs. You need to get a lot of heat into the block and fast, toy "hobby" gas lamps just dont deliver.
Add a self-tightening chuck type stud extractor and a 18" breaker bar and apply torque firmly with the case clamped down, otherwise you are wasting your time and fighting your own efforts.
I used a conventional extractor on a 3/8" drive to rwmove these:

[silverbullet]

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=141484" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;