Early 1.9 to 2.1 conversion - stop me if I'm being stupid!

[CJH]

looks flat to me

So it does. So the only thing a domed tappet would appear to do is reduce the area of the contact point, which you'd think would speed up wear.

[CJH]

The problem is not just access it's getting a nut onto the bolt to start with just two hands, I have used a bit of beer can before to hold the bolt in place.

Yes, I think I used a piece of gaffer tape across one face of an open ended spanner. But I like the beer can idea - presumably you just tear it out once the nut's started.

[itchyfeet]

. But I like the beer can idea - presumably you just tear it out once the nut's started.

Nope leave it there, this pic is removing it years later, you can see the mark where the cylinder was.

[tobydog]

One thou, or 0.025mm - that's not a lot, and would be hard to detect by eye I think. I'll take another look (later, when the engine's out). Did he say why?

Learn something new every day.......

Lifter domed spherical and cam ground slightly conical so that cam makes contact off centre causing lifter to rotate and spread wear.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/in ... low.11152/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CJH]

Got my pump back today - complete with new O-ring groove and the outlet hole opened up to match the inlet.



So I fitted one of the rings that Itchyfeet kindly sent me, and gave it a generous coating of assembly lube.



I'd taken the oil pump studs out so that I could twist the pump body into place, but Itchyfeet was right - it didn't help. First attempt just sliced through the O-ring where it tries to pass the inlet hole.

Not wanting to waste my finite supply of O-rings, I moved it around a bit (the assembly lube held it in place), and this time just tried pushing, rather than twisting. It didn't break the ring this time, but it did shave a little nick off the edge.



So there was nothing else for it, I was going to have to work the rear edge of the inlet and outlet holes, as Itchyfeet had done. I wanted to avoid this, since my engine is fully assembled and I need to avoid getting aluminium filings in either the camshaft or the pump inlet holes. So I made sure the surfaces were coated in assembly lube to catch most of the filings, stuffed the gaps with paper towel, and Dremeled the sharp edges off the back of the oil holes. Then I hoovered out, and kept the hoover going while I pulled the paper towels out. I don't think anything fell in.



After this, the O-ring slips in nicely, with no sign of damage. It's a really snug fit, and I'm convinced it's making a good seal to prevent the pump sucking in air. Fingers crossed.

[itchyfeet]

Excellent

Pump is before filter so anything you got in the holes should get caught in oil filter.

Got 50 o rings in total so you can have more if you need later on.

[CJH]

Thank you. Shouldn't be necessary - I've still got several left. Will hopefully be doing the last few bits of assembly this evening, with a view to putting it in the van on Sunday. Still got a few jobs to finish in the engine bay before then. And I've just realised that one of my replacement steel water pipes still needs powder coating to match the others.

[CJH]

I did all the final assembly today, so it's ready to go back in the van. And the engine bay is as good as it's going to get this time around - it'll need work in the not-too-distant future because there's some nasty corrosion behind all the cabling on the left side.

By chance I offered up the alloy engine mounting frame (the one that sits on top of the moustache bar), just to make sure that my oil cooler pipework clears it, and I discovered something odd. My oil pump cover fouls the alloy mounting. I've heard of this happening on the higher performance pumps (with 30mm gears?), but I bought a standard duty pump, with 26mm gears. At least, that's what it says on the box. I'm loathe to take it apart again just to check the gear depth, because the cover nuts have a special coating which is single use I believe.

I've measured the pump flange thickness, and it's 8mm thick - you can see it in this photo:


It's noticeably thicker than the flange on the pump body that Itchyfeet used for his o-ring tests:


So is this because the pumps intended for 3-bolt cams don't protrude so far into the case, and therefore need to stick out a bit further to achieve the same gear depth?

I didn't want to start grinding away the pump cover in-situ, so I've solved it with a couple of washers acting as spacers between the alloy mount and the engine case. This extra 4mm obviously has to go somewhere, so I guess a bit of flex in the moustache bar and a bit of push in the gearbox rubber mount will take care of it. It's a good job I didn't go for a 30mm 3-bolt cam oil pump - that would have given me another 4mm to deal with.

[hightop ratty]

New thread done - sorry

[itchyfeet]

May I suggess a new Thread HR?

[CJH]

We got the engine into the van yesterday evening. I had a mate to help me lift it off the engine stand and onto my pallet trolley. I think it would have been manageable as a one-man job after that, but it certainly helped to have him around to help with the lift and lining it up with the gearbox.



Had a slight mishap with the felt washer though. Somehow it was dislodged by the input shaft, so that it prevented the input shaft entering the spigot bearing, and then got mashed by us trying to wiggle the engine into place. I don't know how it could have happened - I must have somehow installed it badly I guess. But by the time we gave up trying to wiggle the engine into place and dropped it to check everything over the washer was already mangled beyond repair and covered in spigot bearing grease. And for some reason my spare Reinz gasket set didn't have one, so the engine is currently installed without the felt washer. I guess it serves two functions - to keep dirt out of the spigot bearing, and to keep the grease in, so I'm not entirely happy that it's missing. Will probably order a couple more today and think about pulling the engine again to get one in there. I don't think it can be done without dropping the engine completely again, since the flywheel has to come off. And to drop the engine completely means removing the oil filler tube, which means removing the alloy engine mount, which means removing the moustache bar..... Ho hum. There's no short cut I think.



Anyway, other than that it was a relief how straightforward the task was, making use of the boat winch to do the lifting again, and I'm quite pleased with how it looks. Just that slightly rusty moustache bar to spoil the look - I didn't have time to do anything with that.

[itchyfeet]

check the flywheel has the little press in shoulder/insert to hold the felt ring
P1080443 by Paul_Barr, on Flickr

[CJH]

Yeah, it does. As far as I can see, that shoulder and the spigot bearing should hold the washer firmly in place. But I don't remember checking that it was properly seated, so I may have creased it at some point. The only other possibility I can think of is I may have put it the wrong side of that shoulder No way to tell once the input shaft had mashed it about a bit - but at least it protected the spigot bearing from the input shaft during all that process. Needless to say, I'll pay particular attention to these details on Thursday evening when I attempt to fit a new felt washer.

[itchyfeet]

felt washer is pretty much trapped between this ring and spigot bearing, unless your spigot bearing has been pushed in underflush in crank?

[CJH]

Will check that - don't think it's possible to do that though. I have a spare in case that's been damaged.