Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

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Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby mikeh » 08 Jan 2020, 14:35

Hi all,

Right, I have the low compression 2.1 SR engine, same as MV and SS! The engine has been out, new rings and many other parts etc etc. Put it back in as connected it back up as per what it was and have been finding out I have nonstandard parts and started digging around to find out the following. Everyday I'm learning with this thing, but I've still got a long way to go.

I have a Digijet ECU when it should be Digifant. I have a Digijet Distributor with the double tube advance vacuum pump, rather than having no vacuum pump at all.
I also have a mysterious 2nd ECU box thingy! Connected to various items in the engine bay, additional sensor connected to the coolant beside the Thermostat housing and a pump air thing! connected to the ‘Idle Speed Control Valve’ and the ‘Idle Speed Control Valve’ itself. Not sure if this is related to a knob I have on the lower dash which acts like a Choke (which it definitely needs). When this item is disconnected the 2nd ECU box thing beeps beeps beeps. The 2nd ECU is taking power I think from the supply that goes to the coil. I also believe that the Lambda Sensor which I don’t have installed would have connected to this second ECU.

1st Question is, has anybody had any experience finding additional kit attached like this? Any recommendations on undoing it all?

2nd - If I got a hold of the Digifant ECU. Would it be worth it?

2a - I’m guessing the Digifant controls the Advance and Retard, which is why the Distributor has no vacuum pump on the side. So, I’m guessing I would replace this with the correct Distributor if I got the Digifant ECU?

2b - Is the Wiring Loom the same for Digijet and Digifant? If it’s different, which other components am I missing?

3rd - For setting Timing I found the Vanagon template for marking/checking timing points on the crank pulley. Marking 3 items, TDC, 5° and also 35°. At 3000rpm I’m on the money for 35° which apparently is perfect. However, when making the 5° mark on the Pulley, the pulley looks to have what I would estimate as a 10° mark, not 5°. Looking at specs I found only the DJ should be at 10° according to brickwerks. I’m guessing the Pully is from a DJ but the Engine is the SR low compression. What does everyone here recommend, 5° which I’m set at already or the 10° which appears to be only for the DJ?

I know there are a few Items on here, just looking for feedback/confirmation to the questions and possibly some light at the end of the tunnel to what I should have. It's running nicely at the moment, apart from having to use a choke and struggles to start immediately after being turned off, a min or two and it starts like it should!

Thanks for looking, images below if your interested.

Images:-
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5xqyaermi1yiob6/Engine-bay.jpg?dl=0 Unknown Pump is at the top of this image.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/151ewmkfe69xb7w/Unknown-Item.jpg?dl=0 This is the Unknown Pump!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q31f34zg4aezp2a/2nd-Box.jpg?dl=0 This shows the 2nd box obstructed by all the cables coming from it all tied up not in use.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3em1dwhuzqcaufc/Timing-Marks.jpg?dl=0
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby maxstu » 08 Jan 2020, 16:19

I'll dip my toe in.
How long have you had van? Contact previous owner?

First picture: Perhaps a basic cruise control? A shot in the dark. But might be something to do with additional switch on dash.
Third picture: Black box hold relays for fuel pump and injectors.
Can't help with rest.
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby mikeh » 09 Jan 2020, 17:02

Hi Maxstu,

Thanks for the reply, I've attached the image again with some labels as I wasn't referring to the box with the two relays. It's not clear and I feel I may remove both boxes out tomorrow to see if there is a part number attached to this 2nd ECU.

I disconnected the unknown pump item and the choke knob still functioned. Is this manual choke a known item, is it standard for DJ engines perhaps? The Engine started fine without it, perhaps it its related to the Cruise Control like you said. There is a separate box with the large vacuum pump in the middle of the engine bay pic for the cruise control. I've no idea how that system works, perhaps if others have Cruise Control, you could see if you have this additional pump I'm trying to identify!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gmyxrydr1ij03rz/2nd-Box-Labels.jpg?dl=0
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby maxstu » 09 Jan 2020, 23:19

Cant really comment on 2nd black box. Its not clear enough on my android phone. But you have fuel injection set up exactly as my DJ Auto. So theres no need for manual choke.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge will browse by.

Check out this

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=va ... RV&PC=SMSM
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby mikeh » 10 Jan 2020, 12:54

Hey Thanks for the vid regarding CC, I have the same stuff attached except the white plastic rod connected to the throttle housing. As I had a bad experience with the original rod as per video jamming the throttle open once almost running someone over :shock: . If anyone is interested the rod I have is off an old Ford Galaxy.

I just took the ECU boxes out and the 2nd box part number is ''hjs 63 01 0214'. I found this on a google search for part number. http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/hjs-ecu-for-2-1-dj_topic76812.html

It would seem it is all in aid of fitting a Cat to the exhaust and the Unknown Part I guess looking at the post, is linked to do with controlling the air bypass valve depending on lambda reading. Seeing as I don't have a Cat installed I might remove it and restore it to what it should be. All with the exception that I have a Digijet for a DJ, when I should really have a Digifant for the SR.

If I eventually us a Digifant ECU (£400), does that ECU and Loom have a connector for Lambda? I was thinking at sometime if I eventually have all the parts, that I would fit a Cat to reduce pollution and not have a smelly exhaust.

What would you do?
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby multisi » 10 Jan 2020, 16:05

I have a cat with sensor if you want one, came from a California registered van with 2.1 mv engine, I have some loom but not sure if I still have the ecu, I do have the little black box part number 251907393B. I will check what else I have.
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby mikeh » 12 Jan 2020, 20:16

Thanks, I would like a sensor and cat further down the line but not right now. My plans are to get the Digifant ECU and I think I have to replace the Distributor at the same time.

For now, I have removed the 2nd box and put the Idle control valve as it should have been. This removes my manual choke, the engine starts fine and the Idle control valve is doing its job starting the engine from cold but the rpm is a little low, and after a few minutes it gets up to the low 900's. Not sure if that means something is not right with this setup!
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby maxstu » 12 Jan 2020, 22:25

Is this an Auto with rev gauge..to tell you RPM? Or are you using an alternative method to read revs? 900rpm idle is a bit high. Not low. Yet liveable in my opinion. I think it 800 + or - 50 is standard. Try running without idle control valve...l mean idle stabiliser control box .the white box on left fire wall engine bay. Unplug both cables and plug them together. They will be stiff to pull out.
My camper had huge starting/stalling and rough idle issues before giving van to an old skool VW trained local mechanic, Peter, at Victoria VW's in Broadstairs, Kent. First thing he did was rip (literally :shock: ) out ISC white box and sling it in a bin. He then plugged leads together. And hey presto! Perfect running...He set timing with proper gear too instead of my old gunson relic. Since then Ive been running my DJ auto without it's ISC. One year on without any issues. Starts on the button and smoothest idle ever.

BTW coming back to the cruise control....well, is it? Do you have a pressure switch under or above your foot brake pedal? Plus if it is CC, via the dash switch, and if you decide to remove it, I would be interested in buying all parts :pimp
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby mikeh » 13 Jan 2020, 22:59

Yes it is an Auto and standard Rev on Dash. The Stabiliser control box has been removed and wires connected as it was erratic with it plugged in.

If you have the DJ, then your idle RPM's are 800±50 RPM. My Engine is the SR, same as the SS and MV which is 880±50 RPM, so 930 RPM should be the top end of allowed idle.

This is sort of the reason for the post, I'm running my SR/MV engine with the ECU for a DJ which is designed to run slower idle. I've located some Digifant ECU's but there expensive, I've got to find the cash but I think I need to replace the distributor as well.

Yes I have a switch at my brake pedal for the CC and the control is on one of the steering stalk switches. I'm planning on keeping the CC at the moment but I will let you know if I want it gone.
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby maxstu » 14 Jan 2020, 16:43

mikeh wrote:Yes it is an Auto and standard Rev on Dash. The Stabiliser control box has been removed and wires connected as it was erratic with it plugged in.
Only way to go
If you have the DJ, then your idle RPM's are 800±50 RPM. My Engine is the SR, same as the SS and MV which is 880±50 RPM, so 930 RPM should be the top end of allowed idle.
I agree. But cannot make much difference. Yet you said idle was too low in previous posting. Unless surging forward when releasing brakes I would live with that..providing idle is stable
This is sort of the reason for the post, I'm running my SR/MV engine with the ECU for a DJ which is designed to run slower idle. I've located some Digifant ECU's but there expensive, I've got to find the cash but I think I need to replace the distributor as well.
Is the Air Flow Meter the same for DJ and SR/MV? I saw an article on YouTube showing how to eliminate and rid rough idle by moving the sprung assisted little arm, the potentiometer, under square black cover on air box. Might help reduce RPM...just maybe! Also are you getting a precise setting for timing? I thought mine was ballpark until a local mechanic attached his super duper timing equipment and moved it about 3 favourable degrees. Sweetest running T25 ever

Yes I have a switch at my brake pedal for the CC and the control is on one of the steering stalk switches. I'm planning on keeping the CC at the moment but I will let you know if I want it gone.PLEASE!
Last edited by maxstu on 14 Jan 2020, 16:53, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby maxstu » 14 Jan 2020, 16:50

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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby mikeh » 14 Jan 2020, 23:55

Cheers maxstu, I'll take a look at the Air Flow Meter, I believe you are correct that they are all the same. May also get to someone how can fine tune it too.

Requested to open your file.
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby Aidan » 15 Jan 2020, 07:39

IMHO Just run the engine as a DJ, as that is the wiring loom and ECU you have in the vehicle, it will make practically no difference to how it runs, just time it at 5degrees as per a DJ running unleaded fuel.
To change it to a Digifant system you will have to change the wiring loom, the ecu, the distributor, the idle control unit and add a lambda probe to the exhaust and I promise you that you won't see any real benefit in fuel economy or emissions or driveability. Now you have removed the extra stuff that had been added just make sure that everything that should be DJ spec is present and correct and working. DJ doesn't need a choke, the ECU map does that job in conjunction with temp senders and hall sender, when you start the engine it knows that you are starting and applies the correct fuelling for it to start dependent on the air and coolant temperatures.
Hope this helps.
Wiring diagram and engine manual for DJ is available on SyncroSport website
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby maxstu » 15 Jan 2020, 11:33

Aidan wrote:IMHO Just run the engine as a DJ, as that is the wiring loom and ECU you have in the vehicle, it will make practically no difference to how it runs, just time it at 5degrees as per a DJ running unleaded fuel.
To change it to a Digifant system you will have to change the wiring loom, the ecu, the distributor, the idle control unit and add a lambda probe to the exhaust and I promise you that you won't see any real benefit in fuel economy or emissions or driveability. Now you have removed the extra stuff that had been added just make sure that everything that should be DJ spec is present and correct and working. DJ doesn't need a choke, the ECU map does that job in conjunction with temp senders and hall sender, when you start the engine it knows that you are starting and applies the correct fuelling for it to start dependent on the air and coolant temperatures.
Hope this helps.
Wiring diagram and engine manual for DJ is available on SyncroSport website


Now that's l was trying to say.....in a much less knowledgeable way :lol:
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Re: Digijet instead of a Digifant - plus additional components

Postby maxstu » 15 Jan 2020, 11:35

Does it have a temp sender 2 in thermostat housing?
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