Neutral Position Switch and other questions

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matt brighton
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Neutral Position Switch and other questions

Post by matt brighton »

Hi

Now that I'm up and running so to speak... I have a few queries on the ECU electrical connections / Fuel side of things

1- NP Conection The ECU wiring from RJES comes with a male/female NP labelled connector - do I leave this disconnected or connected ? - 025 said it tells the ECU the cars idling and leans the mixture ?. How can I know if it should be connected or not ?

2- The test cycle connectors - ... They cycle thru fuel pump and fans correctly when connected - but it won't stop cycling thru even if i disconnect them . It'll only turn off unless I disconnect the battery lead - is that the correct way to stop it repeat cycling through the checks.

3- Fuel Vapour pipes - I have connected up the x2 metal fuel vapour pipes that appear from under off the left side of the inlet manifold.... to the big canister - does the bottom pipe off the canister just vent to air ?. The Fuel vapour pipe that is alongside the fuel inlet/return pipes - where ought that be routed ? does it too vent to air ? - ( or maybe connect to the bottom pipe on the big canister ?

4- Fuel Filter - - any better (or worse) place to splice in the fuel filter... I know it goes in after the pump but is there any benefit from being nearer the pump or nearer the engine ?

silverbullet
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Re: Neutral Position Switch and other questions

Post by silverbullet »

Who supplied the loom? They should have advised according to the donor car and ecu.
I would have thought that fuel vapour recovery needs to be closed loop or you will basically have an inlet air leak. On my old EJ22 it had been junked and blocked off.
Fuel filter goes immediately after the pump, on the chassis rail, oem location.

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matt brighton
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Re: Neutral Position Switch and other questions

Post by matt brighton »

Thanks 025

RJES pruned the loom - I got the whole kit from Richard... will give him a call,

Thanks again for advice

Matt

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slowcoach
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Re: Neutral Position Switch and other questions

Post by slowcoach »

Question 3-
The green connectors are the test cycle ones. You shouldn't need to disconnect battery for them to stop, just ignition off and unplug the greens. The 2 black ones connected to each other are to flash the error codes,if reported by the check engine light.

I'm.not using the charcoal canister, my vent lines are just blocked, though off hand couldn't tell you where
===================
1984 TRAKKA Conversion Subaru EJ20 5 Speed

mshaw1980
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Re: Neutral Position Switch and other questions

Post by mshaw1980 »

Hello

My NP switch had to be connected as mine would cut out at junctions. Is fine now.

Don't connect test switches as previously said

Fuel filter near the tank and pump

My fuel vapour pipe I just blocked off with a bung.
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)

matt brighton
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Re: Neutral Position Switch and other questions

Post by matt brighton »

Thats useful as mine has cut out a few times at junctions so far

I assumed it was coz i haven't got me rum baba sensor fitted yet - have ordered a new universal 3 wire one

Will connect NP wires and see how it goes...


Thanks

Matt

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